:TESTING WATERS: 90 fwd tsi, lots of work done

[boost05]

:TESTING WATERS:!!!
Im just throwing this out incase this all gets worse Ive spent way to much money on this..

tell me what you would pay for it


1990 eagle talon TSI fwd 5 speed

New block new head 0 miles
ported head
polished machined crank
Clevitte Rod and Main Bearings
machined head compression= 8.0:1
stock 1g pistons chrome rings
felpro bluestripe Head gasket
1g big rods etc... can withstand 450-500whp

the mods I have right now are...
T3/T4B comp AR.60 exhaust between 48-63 custom bullseye power housing (internally gated)
VRS 3 inch catback exhaust
stock cams
780cc injectors
255 fuel pump
Maf translator version 2.01 (no need for afc)
gm maf
plam data logger
33x7x3 fmic
1g bov chrushed and modded
MBC
steel braided oil lines, feed and return
ported 1g manifold
lots of guages (boost, volt, air fuel, vacuum,water temp)
192 fail safe thermostat,

im still in the breakin period of my motor it has 412 miles on it at the moment It has a miss fire and im sure its an easy fix it runs but misses somewhat bad no biggie. Ive only boosted 6 psi on this motor to set the rings and everything else is very new...the fuel pump however is not yet installed yet for breakin purposes. thanks for your time here are some pics

I have every single receipt for everything I have done to this car for every repair and every mod.

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[Eagle_Summit]

4500...clean that engine bay

 

[huafist]

You're not breaking this motor in with that T3/T4 are you??

 

[na90dsm]

with sputering problem 3500. if you fixed the sputering and all was good 5k

 

[boost05]

im not selling just wanted to get the handle on the issue if you are feelin me..thanks guys

 

[25psi]

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Is it just me or is that building in the back sitting at a severe angle???


Anyways I could see your car going for around 5k.

 

[boost05]

yea I dunno is up with that building so many people have asked me about it before .. no idea thanks for the replys

 

[DSMu4ia]

You're not breaking this motor in with that T3/T4 are you??

I broke my motor in on 23-25psi and a 60-1 turbo.

 

[boost05]

HELL YEA! thats awsome and yes I have hurd that breaking your motor in like how your gonna drive it will increase power?

 

[huafist]

It has nothing to do with the amount of boost you're running, but whether or not you want your stupid turbo to last - breaking in a new motor with a turbo you really care about isn't the brightest thing in the world. During the first few thousand miles a motor runs, all the gunk and metal shavings are cleaned out of the system via the oil. And guess where it'll go - yep, right to your turbo. You're asking for trouble doing this. Use a turbo you don't give a rat's ass about to break motors in.

 

[boost05]

oh I know, ive read many stories with peoples bearings going to shit becasue of a fat piece of metal got stuck... yea I know, I was messin around with that guy up there I think its quite funny to break a motor in with a big turbo, must mean you have a lot of money and are willing to throw away a good turbo.

 

[turbotalon92]

It has nothing to do with the amount of boost you're running, but whether or not you want your stupid turbo to last - breaking in a new motor with a turbo you really care about isn't the brightest thing in the world. During the first few thousand miles a motor runs, all the gunk and metal shavings are cleaned out of the system via the oil. And guess where it'll go - yep, right to your turbo. You're asking for trouble doing this. Use a turbo you don't give a rat's ass about to break motors in.

You statement is completely false. If you are messing up turbo's because of metal shavings after a rebuild, you have more to worry about than the turbo.

 

[project94tsi]

Yea i dont think that is completely correct i mean stock 14b's and t25's seem to have lasted for a while, i can see it happening more on a engine with the feed line comming off the head but with the filtered oil off the filter housing you should be fine.

 

[boost05]

makes more sence, im breaking my motor in with my t3/t4 and havent had anyproblems yet Ive hurd both stories, break it in with a crappy turbo, break it in with a nice turbo and set those rings nicely. well guys thanks for the replys.

 

[huafist]

You statement is completely false. If you are messing up turbo's because of metal shavings after a rebuild, you have more to worry about than the turbo.

Have you ever looked at the crap that can be found floating around in your oil after your first couple of oil changes? You realize there's a reason it's recommended to change your oil after the first 500 miles when you do an engine rebuild. There are miniscule bits of metal that can elude the machinist's cleaning before assembly - they end up in the oil pan. Metal in oil + turbo = damaged turbo.
You can tell me I'm wrong all you want to, the facts speak for themselves.

 

[na90dsm]

i agree with turbotalon92. if you just rebuilt your block wouldnt you have it dipped and cleaned before assembly to protect everythign you just installed in it. if you have some stuff left over after a rebuild id consider a new machinist

 

[boost05]

I agree with both of you, I think that no matter what your gonna have a couple pieces of metal left over no matter what...

 

[DSMu4ia]

I changed my oil on my race motor at 15 minutes of run time, then at 20 miles, then at 100 miles, and waiting to change it again at 500 miles. Waiting until about 1500 miles or maybe 2000 miles to switch to synthetic.

Magnetic drain plug has showed nothing (although not alot to stick to a magnet in our engines), oil filters are clean, fuel filter has been cleaned twice (although not needed) and turbo filter has been cleaned twice.

 

[diambo4life]

Have you ever looked at the crap that can be found floating around in your oil after your first couple of oil changes? You realize there's a reason it's recommended to change your oil after the first 500 miles when you do an engine rebuild. There are miniscule bits of metal that can elude the machinist's cleaning before assembly - they end up in the oil pan. Metal in oil + turbo = damaged turbo.
You can tell me I'm wrong all you want to, the facts speak for themselves.

I agree with shaolin rob on this. If I had my brand new FP RED waiting to go on, trust me, the motor will be broken in by a 14B. Also breaking in a motor with 25psi on a 60-1 isn't the best idea imho. There are different schools of thought on that I guess to. I will break my motor (after the build up) with the current turbo I run. However, I do have a filtered oil supply to the turbo so that makes me feel secure a little bit.

 

[DSMu4ia]

I agree with shaolin rob on this. If I had my brand new FP RED waiting to go on, trust me, the motor will be broken in by a 14B. Also breaking in a motor with 25psi on a 60-1 isn't the best idea imho. There are different schools of thought on that I guess to. I will break my motor (after the build up) with the current turbo I run. However, I do have a filtered oil supply to the turbo so that makes me feel secure a little bit.

Please explain why it isn't the best idea. Several of the best shops, top drag racers, etc all agree on this.

Unless you are "driving" your new forged motor, instead of babying it, you are NEVER going to get the rings to seal.

 

[diambo4life]

I think there's a big difference with a car being broken in to run a 9-10sec pass the following day and a daily driver that you expect to drive for the next 40-50k miles reliably. Again, as I stated, it's my personal preference. You do not need to run 25psi on a 60-1 to "properly seat" the rings. I didn't say you have to baby the motor either. It should be driven normally. Not abused and not babied. A 14b sized turbo will break in the car adequately. There's still a lot of debris in the engine oil (of a freshly built motor) that can ruin a brand new turbo no matter how frequently you change the oil or oil filter. I just like being over cautious.

 

[turbotalon92]

If your motor is done right, you won't have any metal shaviings. In addition, you have a oil filter to remove these kinds of things.

I have broken in motors and have known countles people to break them in on SC61, SCM61, GT35r's and T4's locally and never saw one problem. Again there is no reason to have to put a junk turbo on your car to break it in, unless you are an asshat and don't know what you are doing.

As for the proper break in, depends on how much life you want from the motor. Lots of racers break there cars in on the dyno and don't take the time to heat cycle the motor for 1000's of miles. I didn't baby mine and it is still going strong with more than 40,000 miles. Ask DSMTRANCE on here he currently owns that car, ask him how his turbo is holding up.

 

[turbotalon92]

Have you ever looked at the crap that can be found floating around in your oil after your first couple of oil changes? You realize there's a reason it's recommended to change your oil after the first 500 miles when you do an engine rebuild. There are miniscule bits of metal that can elude the machinist's cleaning before assembly - they end up in the oil pan. Metal in oil + turbo = damaged turbo.
You can tell me I'm wrong all you want to, the facts speak for themselves.

You do realize that if you have that much crap in your oil where you are worried about the bearings in your turbo, you should also be worried about the bearings in your motor. Or do you break your motor in with junk bearings also?

 

[boost05]

I set my rings @ 8 psi no 25... thats crazy