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take off issues

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mattspyder

15+ Year Contributor
1,051
2
Nov 2, 2004
del taco, Wisconsin
Decided to take the car down the road since I dropped the motor in it and all. I bleed the power steery pump and then jumped in it. I have a studder,shake when I first take off, the steering wheel shakes and I can hear the engine and tranny shake, If I take off around 3krpm it doesn't do it as bad. Anyone know what this could be?
I put a act 2100 clutch kit and act light weight flywheel on it just for fyi
 
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This also happens to me. It does it right as I apply gas, but goes away as I push the gas pedal down.
 
My motors mounts are pretty new so I hope it's not that. I'll check it out and let you know if it was the cause of my problem
 
i had the same problem....turned out it was my balance shaft belt had snapped so check it out
 
Well with this problem theres only a few tthings it could be. Are your mounts aftermarket?
 
look into prothane. and i noticed everything on your car was stolen from you?
 
yes everything was stolen. I'll update my profile later. I currently have a stock 96-97 motor with the clutch kit I mentioned above. I'm not sure it's the motor mounts as I pulled it out of the garage the other day and it pulled out fine.
 
It culd just be some loose bolts somewhere too... keep me posted and ill keep researching
 
well I just got done dropping the trans tonight, got done sweating balls so I stoppd right there. Now that the trans is off what do I do next? I have the brand new act 2100 clutch kit w/act lightweight flywheel. Should I take the flywheel to a machine shop? if so what spec do I have them check for?
 
Clutch chatter? Have you properly broken it in yet?
I wouldn't be surprised if this was all because of the move to a more aggressive disk/pp. Let alone the differences in low speed driving with a lightened flywheel.
 
the clutch is brand new, not even 1 mile on it. I guess i'll take the flywheel off and make sure its good and then slap it all back together. If the problem still occurs I don't know what the hell i'm going to do. I think i'll replace all the motor mounts with prothane and see what happens. I didn't notice that the motor was moving alot when the clutch is engaged right away.
 
Remove the easy to get to mounts, the front and the driver's side, and inspect them.
So, not even a mile on the new clutch you say.. and your symptoms sounds suspiciously like clutch chatter..

I hope you didn't pull your tranny for nothing.
 
It's likely your flywheel is fine. Put a straight edge on it and use a flashlight to search for gaps (light pouring through) if you have any suspicions after that I could justify taking it in somewhere to get checked. But be careful, I had my stock flywheel cut with runout - meaning their equipment was not calibrated properly.

It is common to get chatter on a new clutch and equally as common for it to diminish after break in.
My Spec Stage 2+ w/ stock flywheel and my current Competition Clutch Stage 2 w/ lightened flywheel both chattered, the former more so than the latter.
Did you get the street disk or the 6 puck? The 6 puck can chatter far more than a full face variety, but neither is immune.
 
Word on the street is that you got your flywheel cut, back in the car and you're driving again. Don't forget to update this thread with your findings!

Btw, you seem pretty organized to get your shit taken care of so quickly. Good stuff.
 
Yeah id like to know if cutting it helped you, My Act2600/exedy disk/LW combo chatters like a beast...If i try to slowly let the clutch out at idle, I get mad chatter/clunk (from my air filter hitting the car) and its only when I try to let the clutch out under 1500 rpms...I think there might be a bolt or something missing on the backside of the motor/bell housing, Ive had this happen in the past so I will check that for myself.
 
just to update everyone, I got the flywheel cut within spec and I just got done putting in prothane motor mounts and the studder is still there. I would say it went down just a tad bit. It almost feels like something isn't even somewhere because it studders and then fine and then studders, just in a quick fashion.

on a side note I found out the BOMZ filter I had on was making my car run like shit. Not letting enough air in and causing piss poor idle. I took it off and bam the car idles great. Now I just need to find a 99 evap solenoid.

Sorry it took me so long guys I just didn't want to update until I replaced the motor mounts.
 
just thought I would update this post as I still have issues.

the issue is still happening and i've put on about 1000 miles. Doesn't seem to be getting any better. It seems to be happening almost right at the top of the clutch play. It's like a sweet spot, I can even feel it now when i'm down shifting.
Could it be a bad adjustment on the slave and master cylinder rod? Thats the only thing I can think of that I changed. I adjusted it to the way Jacks Trans says.. Maybe I went to far?????
anyone have any input.
 
I just started having the same problem today, I have a act 2100 with stock cut flywheel but its more than broken in. What I noticed is this, I replaced my slave cylinder with a brand new one because it went bad. So today the shaking was bad and having problems getting it into gear, so I jack up the car to look for any leaks and I noticed that the slave cylinder wasn't returning and was keeping pressure on the throw out bearing to the point where it just hits the clutch. I tried bleeding it again with no luck and I'm wondering why is it not returning, when I push it in by hand you can feel the pressure but then it just pushes right back out by itself. So thats where I am and maybe thats one more thing for you to check as I am trying to figure out my problem as well. Good Luck. :thumb:
 
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