Switching to dsmlink, couple questions

[vexixx]

So im getting ready to purchase dsmlink for a 2nd time after getting ripped off. Right now im running a VPC and SAFC combo on my car. I'd post this on the dsmlink forums, how ever I don't own the dsmlink yet. Just getting ready to. I'm not much of a tuner myself. I do the ruff work and when it comes to the tunning I normally leave it to someone that knows whats up.

- So I got a mas and dsmlink coming with the ecu. The chip that I'm receiving is set for 780s and I want to run 1000's. Is that going to mess me up?
( I know the 1000's are "huge" but got a good deal and I don't see why they won't work )

- As far as fuel pressure do I need to set that back to the base fuel pressure?
(I'd assume so, I'm not sure though)

- What problems should I get ready to encounter?

I just need it to run slightly, heh , before I take it to Buschur. I'm gonna find some local help too, but need to get this stuff installed asap. Any input would be awesome, Thanks.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Unfortunately your DSMLink will not work with those injectors. The maps burned into the chip are for 780s and won't work with your 1000s. I would suggest you sell the 1000s and get some 780s.

This is TOTALLY FALSE! Sure the "default" settings on the chip are for the 780s, however, all you have to do before you start the car is go into the fuel settings with a laptop or PALM and adjust the compensation (global/dead time) for the injectors you plan to run. On a 1G there is a memory board to remember settings, on the 2G version......no memory board is present, so the settings will be lost (revert to default) and have to be re-entered before start-up if the battery is disconnected. But you can upload a saved log for reset, you don't have to remember or write down the changes made.

When you finally get DSMLink, just look up the injectors that you do have and adjust the global and dead time for those injectors (there is a list in the manual).....the car will fire up and run fine so you can make it to your tuner.

But really, it's very simple, just follow the manual and you'll be good. Or hang close when your tuner does it to get a feel for how it's done so you don't have to pay someone to do it for you.

The fuel pressure is initially "seen" as being at base, but that can be compensated for if different.

The main problem will be that it's a hell of a lot easier to tune with than the VPC/SAFC combo. You'll wonder why you didn't go DSMLink sooner.

The main thing I would suggest if someone else is tuning it for you is to do a log and save it after they're done so if the battery power is lost, you can re-upload the tune and not have to go back to them.

 

[vexixx]

Awesome! Now I plan on getting a Palm to put in the car after it tuned. I was assuming that the palm can restore the maps if I ever disconnected the battery or anything as long as I saved the map on the palm. Is that right?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Awesome! Now I plan on getting a Palm to put in the car after it tuned. I was assuming that the palm can restore the maps if I ever disconnected the battery or anything as long as I saved the map on the palm. Is that right?

Correct. You can restore the settings from a saved log (.dat) or config file (.ecu) from either the laptop or PALM.

My only suggestion is that it's a lot easier to actually tune from a laptop as it's easier to read (I'm old and half blind) and use the PALM for just general logging and minor changes.

With a laptop you can display more items at one time than you can with a PALM.

But yes, everything can be done from a PALM.

edit: corrected

 

[Hal]

With a laptop you can log more items at one time than you can with a PALM.QUOTE]

Not quite.

You can LOG the same number of items, but only display up to 6 of them at a time in one of the following formats:

Combined chart (labels only)
Combined chart (labels & values)
Individual charts
Digital format
Digital format (peak hold)

There is one other format, I *think* it's a large LCD font

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Sorry Hal, and thanks for the clarification.

 

[vexixx]

Oh I plan on using the laptop for everything. Just the palm to save the configurations. I don't even like using palms that much personally! Thanks for all the info guys and someone PM'd me this which was awesome.

I can't post in the forum you are in, I'm a newb... but here is the information I got from DSMlink:

"For the 2Gs we can burn you a
new chip when you upgrade your injectors. We charge $30 for a new chip
that includes Priority shipping. You wouldn't have to send in your ECU a
second time. We would send you a new chip that you'd install yourself
into the ECU."

That's straight from them. You might want to post this on your page so that other people know.

Steve

 

[scottsee]

Congrats on the upgrade. I remember that very first 4500rpm two-step studder. I do have a few recommendations, coming from someone who has done everything wrong twice..

When you install the ecu, before putting everything back together turn your car on hook the data cable upto the OBDII port and try and connect to the dsmlink software. Are you going to be using the serial cable supplied with the link, or use a DB9 cable? If you are using the usb-db9 cable, make sure to check the cable you plan on using with the working cable list supplied on the dsmlink forums or wiki.

Alot of times the Dsmlink.prefs file needs to have a portIDForce command added to get the DB9 cable comport # to list as available in the dsmlink application. Most people never have that issue, but be aware it is an over looked problem that caused me a big head ake. It's normally disguised as IO failed: Command timed out which is telling you there isn't any feed back from the ecu, like disconnected or bad cables exc.. I guess I'm telling you this in hopes that you won't be discouraged when hooking it up if you encounter an error. Pretty common un-talked about stuff with dsmlink..

Please check and adjust your TPS values, ISCpostion, LTFTlow & LTFTmid before doing any WOT pulls. It's a fun process.. I hope you really enjoy what Dave and Tom (and hal with his palm software) have created for us..

 

[vexixx]

Thanks for all the advice man! I got another question that came to me when I was taking out my VPC. The VPC took over my MAP sensor. Is this a must when running link, what should I do? Thanks.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Thanks for all the advice man! I got another question that came to me when I was taking out my VPC. The VPC took over my MAP sensor. Is this a must when running link, what should I do? Thanks.

Is it actually the MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor, on top of the intake mani. All it does is check that the EGR is working correctly. I (and a lot of people) use the MDP input to the ECU for a true MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor such as the GM 3.3 bar. It along with a WB O2 sensor (wired in and log-able) will be an asset while tuning...........keeps you from having to go to the dyno.

 

[vexixx]

Well I plan on heading to the dyno haha. Is it alright to block this off for now?

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Well I plan on heading to the dyno haha. Is it alright to block this off for now?

Yes, you can block it off for now.

Once you get the hang of DSMLink with a MAP and WB O2 wired in, the only thing you'll have to hit the dyno for is actual numbers. The dyno will not give you anymore information tuning-wise, just the corrected HP/torque numbers.

 

[scottsee]

^x2

3.3bar map & wideband is invaluable to tunning WOT and MAP's, seeing boost leaks, LTFT minipulation, exc. If you use the MDP 0-5v signal don't forget to enable the "use map" check box to smooth out the signal and make it logable.. Cheers