The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

Swapping an A/T into my Race Car?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Nos~4G63

20+ Year Contributor
340
2
Jun 2, 2002
Davie, Florida
I am building a race car for the street. The car is a 1990 Talon TSi awd. I have a built motor, 125shot direct port, FP3065 and all supporting mods. I want the car to appear complety stock and make 550-600whp. I was hoping with this turbo and all supporting mods with a good tune on an AEM EMS that I would be able to make over 500whp on boost alone. Something like 28psi and C16, I know a couple years ago Cokics street car put down 527whp with a 3065 and I believe my car is more extensively modded plus I have an additional 125hp coming from nitrous. So what do I need to do to an A/T to make it strong enough to handle 600whp? I read everything on Russ Coxe site and all he has listed for mods performed on his tranny are a converter and valve body kit. Anything special I need to know before putting an automatic tranny into a car that came with a manual? My goal for the car is to consistently run mid to low 10's, but the fastest A/T DSM listed only runs 10.4's.
My reasoning: I will need to purchase a built tranny anyways which will cost roughly the same or more than the built A/T swap, and with a built manual I will have more driveline abuse and more chances for driver error such as missing gears and bogging, slipping the clutch too much etc. Everyone knows that most race cars have automatics. I want to race for money on the street so the consistency of the automatic would be ideal!

Anyone foresee any dissadvantages of swapping an automatic into my car? :confused:
 
Nos~4G63 said:
So what do I need to do to an A/T to make it strong enough to handle 600whp? I read everything on Russ Coxe site and all he has listed for mods performed on his tranny are a converter and valve body kit. Anything special I need to know before putting an automatic tranny into a car that came with a manual? My goal for the car is to consistently run mid to low 10's, but the fastest A/T DSM listed only runs 10.4's.
My reasoning: I will need to purchase a built tranny anyways which will cost roughly the same or more than the built A/T swap, and with a built manual I will have more driveline abuse and more chances for driver error such as missing gears and bogging, slipping the clutch too much etc. Everyone knows that most race cars have automatics. I want to race for money on the street so the consistency of the automatic would be ideal!

Anyone foresee any dissadvantages of swapping an automatic into my car? :confused:

I am very interested in hearing how this works out for you. I am also trying to convert to an auto. However, it looks like I might just swap cars. From what I've read IPT can setup the trans to hold that kind of power. If you are not on it yet there is an egroups for auto trans DSM's. I can send you a link if you PM me. Good luck with the project and do not let the manual guys change your mind.

Chris
 
stangtt said:
Keep in mind you will need some way to control the trans when using a stand alone like the AEM. Good luck with your project! :thumb:

He is correct. However, IPT sells one and there are some others on the Auto Trans forum here that are using one. They are mostly 2G guys though so, I do not know how much that will help. I will be making a system for my 1G car so if you need any help just let me know.

Chris
 
Nos~4G63 said:
So what do I need to do to an A/T to make it strong enough to handle 600whp?
We have a very good A/T shop right here in Davie called ATF (Automatic Transmission Factory). They build race trannies all the time (mostly muscle cars), and have even built a "bulletproof" W4A33 for a local 2G guy. I would hit them up and see what they say-- talk to Andy.
 
I have also been thinking of the A/T swap????????

would like to know how it works out
 
Moved to AT forum.

Also i thought level10 made a tranny for our cars
 
Level 10 does, but IMHO stay away from them. There are too many horror stories including my own experiences.
Our A/T is quite strong from the factory, a little sloppy, but nothing the shift kit can't fix.
If you want to drive for street racing, which is stupid, I would rsay get a full out race trans, billet converter, custom valvebody, and (you will need) a standalone controller.
Looking at Coxe's setup is not good for you, since he probably rebuilds his trans constantly. He has a full out race car.

Mike
 
Looks like my only chance in having a reliable transmission is to mount the motor longitudinally and throw an american made transmission in it.
 
Nos~4G63 said:
Looks like my only chance in having a reliable transmission is to mount the motor longitudinally and throw an american made transmission in it.


don't forget your gm 12 bolt rear
 
Nos~4G63 said:
Looks like my only chance in having a reliable transmission is to mount the motor longitudinally and throw an american made transmission in it.

This is the ultimate setup for racing. You can then easily adjust your gearing to better suite your car. Unlike the stock trans, a GM (or other domestic) trans has a much wider selection of gearing. However, it will be a lot of work (i.e. custom front member, etc.). If you are really after a 10 second street driver I think that it is the best choice. It all depends on if you want to spend the time working on the factory trans or if you want to spend your time engineering the longitudinal swap. Just pick your course and go for it.

Chris
 
Nos~4G63 said:
Looks like my only chance in having a reliable transmission is to mount the motor longitudinally and throw an american made transmission in it.

I don't think you need all that. If you run your setup now with a built mitsu trans, valvebody, and controller, you might surprise yourself.
 
unior said:
just ask kiggly
Well I actually asked the fastest A/T DSMer, Russ Coxe. He kind of scared me away from an auto.
"To date I have not found anyone I would recommend.
As far as a rebuild is concerned there is no "silver bullet" My stock tranny
got me into the 12's. A shiftkit and end clutch was all that I had for 10's.
Then the parts started to break."

His car is an all out race car and does 144mph traps, Which would be good for 9's but with the 60' times he is able to attain with an auto his fastest qaurtermile time is 10.3. :( He was able to run 10's on just a stock tranny with a shift kit and end clutch, so mabey a rebuilt race transmissions will support the power it takes to go mid to low 10's or if I can only get 1.7 60' then It would be low 11's.
 
I would just do the minimal upgrades like Russ coxe,
shift kit
end clutch pack
valve body recalibration
and high stall torgue converter.
and a nice big tranny cooler, the oners that have a mini fan on them
Thats a little more than he did and should hold a little better. It adds upto about $1k, alot cheaper than $2800 for a full race trans, but .........
 
Well, like you said it wont hurt.
Those are just the upgrades i'm going to have done as soon as i get me car back from dsmotorsports. And wanted someone to comment/opinions. Im only looking for low 12's high 11's and i'll be happy. My car will be mostrly street driven other than weekend track time , and a show here and there.
 
I just rebuilt my tranny, put a translab kit on it and a high stall converter. I will hopefully be running high 11's with the 20G if I get it. Low 12's if I keep the evo 16G. Just need to get to the track.
 
STECARS said:
I would just do the minimal upgrades like Russ coxe,
shift kit
end clutch pack
valve body recalibration
and high stall torgue converter.
and a nice big tranny cooler, the oners that have a mini fan on them
Thats a little more than he did and should hold a little better. It adds upto about $1k, alot cheaper than $2800 for a full race trans, but .........


Can you post links to this, should that be enough for a 12 second daily driver, and is this $1k to have it done or to do it yourself?

Thanks
 
STECARS said:
I would just do the minimal upgrades like Russ coxe,
shift kit
end clutch pack
valve body recalibration
and high stall torgue converter.
and a nice big tranny cooler, the oners that have a mini fan on them
Thats a little more than he did and should hold a little better. It adds upto about $1k, alot cheaper than $2800 for a full race trans, but .........

What make you think that Russ just has the minimal upgrades?

-John
 
Nos~4G63 said:
Well I actually asked the fastest A/T DSMer, Russ Coxe. He kind of scared me away from an auto.
"To date I have not found anyone I would recommend.
As far as a rebuild is concerned there is no "silver bullet" My stock tranny
got me into the 12's. A shiftkit and end clutch was all that I had for 10's.
Then the parts started to break."

His car is an all out race car and does 144mph traps, Which would be good for 9's but with the 60' times he is able to attain with an auto his fastest qaurtermile time is 10.3. :( He was able to run 10's on just a stock tranny with a shift kit and end clutch, so mabey a rebuilt race transmissions will support the power it takes to go mid to low 10's or if I can only get 1.7 60' then It would be low 11's.

From here. "Says, my stock tranny got me into the 12's." So with my list above I should be safe for 12's since i will have the shift kit, end clutck kit, valve body kit, and TQ. Also says above " A shiftkit and end clutch was all that I had for 10's.
Then the parts started to break." "He was able to run 10's on just a stock tranny with a shift kit and end clutch, "
 
STECARS said:
I would just do the minimal upgrades like Russ coxe,Shiftkit,and endclutch kit to get into the 10's)
so here is what i plan on getting
shift kit
end clutch pack
valve body recalibration
and high stall torgue converter.
and a nice big tranny cooler, the oners that have a mini fan on them
Thats a little more than he did and should hold a little better. It adds upto about $1k, alot cheaper than $2800 for a full race trans, but .........



Also i said but................ A full race trans would be the way to go. And being that I have soime money coming in soon, we will speak more on the issue of a full race trans.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top