The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

Sunroof Weatherstripping replacement

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

lngbrdr

15+ Year Contributor
225
0
Jan 8, 2005
melbourne, Florida
Okay I have finally decided to really do something to my sunroof because it is just leaking too much, especially in this florida rain. I'm wondering when you replace the weather stripping does the stripping pull all the way off until the glass of the sunroof or is there some sort of metal around it? I ask this because there are holes in the stripping and it looks like some metal is rusted and I am wondering if that is just the weatherstripping or not?
 
The metal is more than likely just a cast for the weather stripping. Just yank it off if you're replacing it. Old weather stripping can be a pain in the arse to take off because the glue they use (on some cars at least) gets old and like concrete. You'll have to razor blade it to ensure proper sealage if that's the case
 
Defiant said:
Make sure your drain tubes are clear. Sunroofs always leak.
Yeah I've checked those but it seems like there is too much water coming in for the drain tubes to keep up. I'm gonna try some silicon in the holes in the weather stripping first, but this damn all day rain thing has got to stop. Hell I'm not in Seattle or jolly old england it should rain here hard for 15 minutes and stop.
 
They will dry out themselves if it's not raining every day like in lngbrdr's case. If you're impatient, then let them dry out themselves anyway, it's a good patience building exercise :)
 
Crawl said:
what do you use to clear the drains?


Compressed air works the best.


To the original poster, you coud also try sanding the rust off and putting some silicone sealant all the way around the inside of the seal. That may work without spending $75 on a new seal or about $600 for new glass. It worked for me.
 
onepimpclipse said:
Compressed air works the best.

keep your head clear tho. GOt hit in the forehead with a piece of debris that was in there once.
 
onepimpclipse said:
Compressed air works the best.

keep your head clear tho. GOt hit in the forehead with a piece of debris that was in there once.
 
and what i dont have compressed air as an option LOL (unless i can use canned air but i doubt thats enough pressure)
 
Hair Dryer will take forever but if you don't have compressed air then that's what you're limited to. Be careful since those things get hot. Not sure if it's hot enough to melt anything since all I use is compressed air for drying. Just use your sense, if it doesn't look right it's prolly not.

Or you can just let it sit for a day while the sun does your work for you :)
 
Compressed air runs the risk of blowing the drain tubing off the drain pipe. A piece of heavy-gauge weed whacker line run through the the tubes is safest.
 
is ther 2 or 4, i found the front 2 and ran weedwacker line down through it, hard to tell if its going all the way or not, i know i at least unglogged one. If there are 2 in the back how do i access them LOL?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top