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suggestions for 450hp+

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well i think everyone is telling u just about the same once u get the car your first mod should be a 6bolt swap, just do the block at first, dont get a blown motor because u could just use the 95 pistons also use the heads off the 2g and later on when u start putting down some numbers get something like a stage 2 or 4 heads from someone that knows dsm's, also get the cyclone intake manifold off someone for like 75 dollers then later go to magnus. But agian first mod = 6bolt
 
Originally posted by klipzedgsx
well i think everyone is telling u just about the same once u get the car your first mod should be a 6bolt swap, just do the block at first, dont get a blown motor because u could just use the 95 pistons also use the heads off the 2g and later on when u start putting down some numbers get something like a stage 2 or 4 heads from someone that knows dsm's, also get the cyclone intake manifold off someone for like 75 dollers then later go to magnus. But agian first mod = 6bolt

thanks for clarifying that. i'm not 100% on all the more complex parts of the engine as of yet so i'm gonna see if i have this correct. the Head is were the pistons, rods, cams are right? the block is where the crank, oil pan is right?

if thats all correct then i should use the 6bolt block with the original engines head on it and build the low end up. am i on the right track or am i way off?
 
Derek2003

are you logged onto AOL IM? I will answer some of your questions.
 
Try to get a 1g head.

Have the valve bowls worked a bit at the minimum.

Might as well cap that block off right the first time around.

I got a 6-bolt block with a mint crank for free and payed $50 for the 1g head and intake.

Dig around.

Just a stock 1g block and head can flirt with 450 hp.

You start to approach the point that with even perfect tuning the rods can fail just due to transfering 100+ hp a piece to the crank.

The TQ (and HP.. HP kinda is TQ) has to go thru the rods. They can only handle so much.

I'd shoot for 400 first then swap in a full tilt forged block with ARP main caps.

The mains have to keep the crank from trying to push out of the pan when you have over 400hp under load.

My other block is getting larger than standard main studs (from a V8 app) and the 6-bolt cap alignment kit. Then it's getting align honed.
Pauter std or "light" (everybody elses heavy) rods.

For your first engine save $ and use all 1g stuff. You can get it decked a bit and use a thin HG if you want to use extra comp to help spool but I prefer to run lower comp with higher boost. That is why extreme's street pistons are 7.5:1.
 
Originally posted by Derek2003


first off, this stuff isn't JDM, if it is then everything that is made for imports in general is JDM and thats just not true. i also understand that i'm going to have to take it to a shop to get it at its max output. i've never even heard of BR exhausts so to me they aren't proven. i know all the stuff i've put on my list is good for some big numbers cuz all the stuff is from "proven" names in the import tuning world. to sit there and tell me HKS, APEX'i, etc... isn't proven as a top brand is just ignorant.

Honestly, to assume theey're proven just because there big names is the ignorant part. Try using an HKS FCD on your car and see what happens for instance. It will blow the #### up. A BR, Extreme or RNR exhaust will make more power then all of those big name brands will, their true 3 inch systems that were designed by people driving some of the fastest DSMs in the world.

You have to understand that these are not Hondas. People do not care about our cars nearly as much so the big names spit out some products that were not well thought out, or designed well for our specific application. Its the small devoted shops who make the parts that work.

The Jun stroker is not the way to go. The way to go is to get a 2 liter 6 bolt, or a 2.4 liter 6 bolt 4g64, but that will take some modification to be done right. If you do things right it will be alot cheaper and more reliable.

I made about 420 horsepower to the wheels, or about 500 to the crank, on a bone stock engine, for about 4500 dollars, and I NEVER once took my car to a shop.

Sean
 
thats real good power for the price, remember though that you have a 1g with the 6bolt, the 2g's have to swap to the 6 bolt so thats another 2-3k on that price for the 2g's.

still nice job man.
 
I actually disagree with everyone on needing a 6 bolt for now. I know someone who did 430 to the wheels on a 20g on a bone stock 7 bolt block. You can pick up a used 6 bolt block now for about 900 and build that in your spare time. In the meanwhile, buy all the mods and put then on your stock 7 bolt. Your stock 7 bolt can handle 400 whp. it wioll prolly last a long time and you can learn to tune on it and not worry about blowing it up.

Sean
 
Originally posted by ItsStockOfficer
I actually disagree with everyone on needing a 6 bolt for now. I know someone who did 430 to the wheels on a 20g on a bone stock 7 bolt block. You can pick up a used 6 bolt block now for about 900 and build that in your spare time. In the meanwhile, buy all the mods and put then on your stock 7 bolt. Your stock 7 bolt can handle 400 whp. it wioll prolly last a long time and you can learn to tune on it and not worry about blowing it up.

Sean

thanks, thats a real good idea. that why when i'm done building the 6bolt block the original 7 bolt will have alot of the mods i'd need anyways and i could just swap the head. also i'd have my car and not have to wait till the engine is finished to drive it.

thanks for the other option for my project :thumb: :dsm:
 
When your ready the 6 bolt head is what your going to want and need., but yes, you can put all your mods off the 7 bolt onto the 6 bolt and bee good to go. Good chance you end up never even blowing or walking the 7 bolt neways. Or not for a while.
 
when i get my 6bolt then i should get the block and head all at once then? from what you've told me thats the best way to do it. the 7bolt tranny will work with the 6bolt or will i need a 1g tranny as well?
 
Yes, a 6 bolt is pretty much externally identical to a 7 bolt in terms of bolt in. You just need to pick and chose the propper accesories.(1g water pump, 2g alternator, etc etc Im nto sure about these but that is the idea) The actual problems come from the electronics and sensors.
 
since the biggest problem is electronic, would it be a good idea to get a 1g wiring harness and use that instead of the 2g harness?
 
No, remember, wiring harness's have a shape, so you really oneswap harness between cars with identical or similair bodies (SR20 in a 240, etc) The wiring is not that complicated, you add wire for one or 2 sensors, not 10 or 15. You can do it all outside the harness easily. This is the best 1gina2g method yet developed.

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/1g2g.htm

Sean
 
Originally posted by ItsStockOfficer
No, remember, wiring harness's have a shape, so you really oneswap harness between cars with identical or similair bodies (SR20 in a 240, etc) The wiring is not that complicated, you add wire for one or 2 sensors, not 10 or 15. You can do it all outside the harness easily. This is the best 1gina2g method yet developed.

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/1g2g.htm

Sean

thats an awesome link man, thats perfect. that takes all the guess work outta whats gotta be done with wiring and makes it seem pretty easy as well.
 
Just a little tidbit about Jun:

They do not manufacture their own pistons, but subcontract their piston making to Cosworth, England. You might have heard of them...

Yes, the same Cosworth that builds F1 engines, WRC engines, etc, etc...

If you have an unlimited budget, and want to build the very best (Note I said BEST, not equivalant), or a road racing engine, I'd go Jun. But unfortunately, I'm not quite at that level, and find putting that kind of money on a street car/weekend warrior is inane, especially when I have a race car in the garage already. I can't say I have personal experience with Cosworth pistons on the 4G63, but I have with other cars, and many other engine builders (Primarily road racing, and building National competition level cars/engines).

Just don't get Web cams. Unless you're so anti-JDM that you can't take off your blinders to see that HKS's are way worth their cost. Or if you simply want to take risks with your motor for a few bucks.
 
Originally posted by cait sith
Just don't get Web cams. Unless you're so anti-JDM that you can't take off your blinders to see that HKS's are way worth their cost. Or if you simply want to take risks with your motor for a few bucks.

where did i ever say i was anti-JDM? i'm confused here. didn't i say earlier that i wanted an HKS exhaust and now your saying that i didn't want to get HKS cams? :confused: i like spending money on things and believe in the "you get what you pay for". did you read all 3 pages even before you posted that? if you had you would have seen i've appologized already for being closed minded and i'm acception other peoples ideas and guidance. next time read all the posts before just replying to one of the earlier ones ok? :thumb:
 
By know the post usually is to anyone reading the post in general.

So when cait sith said, "Unless you're so anti-JDM that you can't take off your blinders to see that HKS's are way worth their cost."

He is talking about anyone who feels this way.

Your post is usually not yours after the first 2 pages, it evolves into a discusion of what is good, bad , right, and wrong. Everyone has an opinion and this is about the time when they come out.

So don't take anything to heart unless they quote and reply to what you directly said.
 
ahh, i got ya. thanks for that.

caitsith man, sorry about jumpin on ya like that. truce?
 
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