The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Strange warm-up procedure

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

2nd97

Probationary Member
0
0
Jan 16, 2007
Duncan, South Carolina
This is my first post. It comes after alot of searching and not really finding any similar problems. I bought my car off of Ebay and am not 100% sure of everything that has been done. Shortly after buying the car it left me stranded on the side of the road. My best friend is a mechanic and my father has built several cars. They both helped me with the enthusiasm of someone working on somebody elses car. However, after several trouble shoots and finally having to rebuild the engine from the ground up, we got it back together. It ran great for about a month and now I'm begining to have trouble with it at initial start-up. If I start the car and try to drive it bogs down and doesn't want to pull properly. I can keep the throtle at the same position and it feels like I'm pulling a parachute. If I floor it it bogs for a second and then pops and starts spinning the tires. The pop usually results in a cloud of black smoke from the tailpipe. Her is the kicker. If I let the car idle for 2-10 min. the idle will step up to about 1800rpm. After that the car accelerates fine. No pop, no black smoke. There is still an issue with the parachute effect, but it comes at 4500-5000rpm. I have an air/fuel gauge and its been pegged at rich ever since we put the engine back in. I'm lost and my friend and father are tired of the car. I can fix the car, but I can't diagnose very well. I hope someone can help me. If there are any questions I can or need to answer, please ask. My job requires me to look at a computer screen all day so I don't usually feel like coming home and firing up the PC. So, if I don't respond right away please bear with me.
 
Is it stock? are there mods which require fuel managment?
 
If your lightshow afr gauge is pegged rich 100% of the time, that means either its disconnected from the o2 sensor or you have a bad o2 sensor. Follow the wire (purple if its autometer) and see if its still connected. If it isnt have your o2 sensor checked.
 
Tell me you had the car throughly inspected at a shop before you bought it and checked the VIN history?
 
Unfortunately, I was too excited about getting the car and therefore, did not do a VIN check. The only mods that could affect the air/fuel is a cold air intake and what looks like an after market intercooler. Everything on the car worked perfectly when I bought it. It was only after we put the engine back in that this started. I didn't mention it before, but the check engine light is on. It's been on since I bought the car. The guy I got it from said it came on after they did the 6 bolt swap and they couldn't get it to turn off. I took the car to Advance and had them check the light. It said there were four hits on two codes. The EGR and MAP. I don't really know what those do. My friend said the EGR isn't that important because all it does is reroute the exhaust back through the engine to help it warm up faster. He told me wht the MAP was but I can't remember.
 
The FIAV is for cold starts, I think your friend is confused. EGR is for reducing nitrogen emissions and fuel economy while cruising. Do you have a block off plate, is the EGR still installed (looks like a BOV or big FPR kind of, but with two nipples)? It has two vac hoses that connect to the EVAP solenoid by your throttle body...block them off or connect them together if you have your EGR blocked off.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198327
 
This may sound silly, but have you done a boost leak test?

And is the BOV recirculating or venting to the atmosphere?
 
The EGR is still connected. I don't know if there is an EGR blocking plate. I will try to look at it this weekend. The BOV is recirculating. I haven't done a leak test because I thought a leak would cause problems all the time. If I let the car sit for a couple minutes before driving, the car behaves normally. It's only when I start the car and try to drive off without waiting that I have the problem. I've tried to attach some pics of my engine bay so you can see what I'm looking at. Also, you could tell me if something looks weird. I really appreciate all the help you guys have been already.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I want to thank everyone for helping me. I never found out what the problem was. however, now it doesn't matter. I had to trade the car in for a new car for my wife.:cry: I'm not mad, she more than deserves it. Thanks again.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top