Still pushing coolant after HG, looking for advice.

[project_tsi]

I see one member on the DSMLink boards is parting out his car b/c it won't stop pushing coolant and I fear I'm on getting close to that road b/c I don't have or want to dump more money into this thing.

Even after a new Mitsu MLS HG Wednesday, the car still pushes coolant out the overflow any time under boost. I made about a 5 sec 2nd gear pull up my driveway (long driveway) and it left a pure trail of coolant up the drive.

I've tried close to everything I could think of. Multiple T-stats, new Rad Caps, I flushed the Rad with a hose to make sure it was flowing properly, etc.

The car still doesn't smoke any white at all, while idling, under boost, etc, none.

The engine has about 1100 miles on since the build up. 2.3L Wiseco/Eagle. Both head and block were decked, etc. There were no cracks in the cylinder walls when I pulled the head. Well at least not 2 and 3, I didn't check 1 and 4, but I doubt it.

So what can cause this? Even if its something internally wrong with the engine, let me know what you think b/c I am stumped at this point and I don't see what would could be wrong internally with it not smoking white and compression is good at 170 across.

Could a failing water pump cause this? It got a new Autozone Duralast pump when the engine went in but I'm wondering if its not flowing enough? It has the open fin design, and I'm considering putting on a pump w/ the closed fin design as it's designed to prevent cavitation and aeration at higher RPM's, but I'm not sure it would help. Anyone have thoughts on this?

I was thinking about taking out the T-stat, and running it very close to home for a few minutes while monitoring what it does. Since the flow would always be open, it shouldn't push, but if it does, that means its either a insufficient flow problem, blockage problem, or something worse internall that I don't know.

Please help out guys, b/c I really don't want to have to put up that for sale ad but boy I really want to some times.

Thanks for the help, Dan.

 

[sweet97]

Dan, I happily butchered my $25K. '93 AWD Talon for the same reason when I found a cracked cylinder. Hopefully I make $6500. from it. That would be great, about a 25% , no that would actually be a 75% loss. But it's been fun and I have met some nice men but mostly whining, foul-mouthed, selfish, think they are the *hit adolescent adult wannabees! Sorry guys, if the sho fits wear it. It's a used shoe as I have worn it myself many a time. Mark

 

[project_tsi]

Mark, we found no cracks in the cylinders, I'm leaning toward possibly a warped head that lifts under pressure may be causing it.

 

[sweet97]

Dan if you blew a head gasket and did not get the head checked and possibly resurfaced I would agree. If you need ARP studs I have a set for a 6-bolt you can have cheap. Mark
PS: Best of luck and I will be praying for you. mark

 

[GVR4592]

Did you resurface the cylinder head before you reinstalled it?

 

[project_tsi]

Not this time around, which I'm regretting.

 

[Iroc_g]

Weve been dealing with a somewhat similar problem at my shop. We did some damn german engines that were having head gasket failures. Although we are still not sure what the problem is, one of them we but a "higher quality" finish on the surface for the gasket, and it seemed to solve it. Although the head had already been resurfaced, it was .005 out of flat again. Not sure if they overheated the thing on the dyno or what.

So just something to ponder i guess about the surface finish. I like to use a head gasket treatment on all my head gaskets. I even used it on my cometic.
The head or block might have warped if you had them milled, and if not i would deffinatly look there first.

 

[GVR4592]

Not this time around, which I'm regretting.

That's probably the cause this time. An aluminum cylinder head can warp just from loosening the head bolts in the wrong sequence, after blowing the head gasket that bad I'm sure it wasn't flat. I'd keep trying though, you have a lot of time and money in it, it's worth another shot.

Get a machinist straight edge and some feeler gauges and check the block and cylinder head for warpage. If you're going to use another MLS, gasket find somebody who has the equipment to determing if the surface finish is suitable for a MLS gasket. Good Luck.

 

[tsiawd98]

The same exact crap happened to me. I built the engine put around 1300 miles on it and then it started to push coolant. so I came on here and people told me it was probably my cuntmetic head gasket. so i replaced it with a hks and low and behold it still did it. I was so pissed I just wanted to burn the damn car.

So I end up replacing the thermostat, wich was still new with a new one and a NEW WATER NECK HOUSING and that finally fixed the problem it seemed that the radiator cap wasnt sealing to well on the other water neck housing and with the new housing it seals like a champ and doesnt push the coolant out. Just some food for thought. to get your car up and running again.