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Spyder 4G63T Swap Startup after 7 years sitting?

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Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
167
59
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
Just making sure before I f#€% some $#!t up:beatentodeath: I'm going to attempt to start my car that has been sitting for 7 years..ish:ohdamn:. I'm going to attempt to start it/ diagnose non startup and want make sure I have everything is in place before I do:nono:. I'm for sure thinking pour oil or some other kind of lube in the cylinders and turn the crank over a few times. I'm worried about the gas, the tank was low so I'm going to fill it up with 97, will I be ok? Is there anything else to libe/prep. It's a 6 bolt swap 97 manual trans in a 99 spyder gs auto using a 95 ecu on a chopped 4g64 wiring harness:banghead:. All belts and tensioner was replace when swap was done. So that being said taking advice!:hmm:
 
All you really need to do is change the oil so you know it's good oil. Prime the engine, you don't need to pour oil into the cylinders for this (disconnect injectors and coils, turn key like trying to start. Crank the engine like this for maybe 10 seconds to ensure oil is getting to the cylinder head). Reconnect everything and see if it'll start. If it doesn't, troubleshoot. If the fuel in the tank has been there for the last 7 years, flush the fuel system and use fresh fuel. Make sure there's no rust in the system.
 
Yes but then you're taking a chance moving all those engine parts dry (crank, pistons, cams) with no oil until the oil pump pressure builds up. Priming the oil pump and engine oil passages under pressure (as shown in the link) without the engine turning guarantees they are lubricated first. Mechanics usually do it on a dry rebuild for that reason. In your case with the engine sitting for 7 years it's up to you. Was the engine ever started during those 7 years so oil got moved around internally? You might get away without doing it if oil is still coating critical internal engine parts (crank, pistons, cams). Perhaps others will chime in on this.
 
Yes but then you're taking a chance moving all those engine parts dry (crank, pistons, cams) with no oil until the oil pump pressure builds up. Priming the oil pump and engine oil passages under pressure (as shown in the link) without the engine turning guarantees they are lubricated first. Mechanics usually do it on a dry rebuild for that reason. In your case with the engine sitting for 7 years it's up to you. Was the engine ever started during those 7 years so oil got moved around internally? You might get away without doing it if oil is still coating critical internal engine parts (crank, pistons, cams). Perhaps others will chime in on this.
I'll take the safe bet on this and prime the oil pump.. Before installing I removed the head had it cleaned and resurfaced and put back on with a MLS and arp's. During reassembly I lubes all parts but that was over 7 years ago so I guess why chance it.
 
Thats what I'm going to do... I seen on someone's thread when they bought a car thats been sitting it had a rusted out pump and hanger...so I'm going to pull the fuel pump too just to make sure it's not rusted out and depending on how that looks I'll just replace it with a evo9 pump, I heard they'll pop right in and it'll be a little upgrade without having to do a fpr.
 
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Did you have any luck getting it started? Mine has been sitting for 14 years and I am hoping this will be the year she drives again.
 
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