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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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sounds like the starter's not engaging. Try this - take a hammer and give the starter a couple of taps. Then try starting it again. If the solenoid is sticking it may free it up enough to engage.
 
Well i brought it too a shop a Canadian Tire to be exact and they told me that the timing belt skipped a few teeth. But the thing is i replaced the belt and balancer belt not even 10,000 kms ago!

I dont know if they're bull shitting me or not?


Could there be another reason for the car not starting?

OR

Is it infact the Timing belts fault..


Thanks
 
I would think it is the battery, I have the same problem now it is damn cold out and even when I plug it doesn't start that great. Try and get the battery tested.
 
car starts fine when its cold but when its warm it won't start its 91 talon TSI fwd auto ... any one know what might be causeing it ?
 
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what is the gold fitting sticking out of the vaulve cover .. also what is that is plugged ... the guy i got it from said all emesions is off is this emmesions stuff ?


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you see the red wire going to the harness with the little box in duck tape ? what could that be ??

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what is this and why is it unplugged ?

I am posting this here because I dunno if these could be why or why not its not wanting to start up when warm
 
i had the same problem with my sr20 twice.....each time we took it out/apart.....we forgot both times to plug in the temp sensor that went to the ECU....im not sure if the 4g63 has the same thing but i would assume it does......your may be bad or disconnected.....i believe that gold plug in the valve cover is just an emmissions thing......nothing to do with it......the other plug im not so sure of.....anyways
Does it smell alot like fuel when u crank it?
Mine would barely barely start cold and not at all hot unless we pulled the fuse to the fuelk pump until it kicked over then replaced it immedately....try that and see how that works...

Mine thought the motor was frozen cold with the sensor unplugged so it would pull timing, dump assloads of gas and give a small shitty spark.......which is how the motor will cold startup.....so try that fuel pump fuse.....if that works for u track down that sesnor and replace it
 
"Gold Fitting" coming out of the valve cover is the PCV, it should be connected to a vacuum hose going back into the intake, which may be the one blocked off. This would have nothing to do with it starting or not, that is also an emissions thing. If you have a coil going out, this could cause it to not start in warmer weather as well.
 
ok if anyone canhelp me out id apprecitate it, car is 90 laser fwd replaced ecu replaced cyl head car is gettin spark fuel is gettin to fuel rail but no signal to injectors tried another ecu verified it works in another car tried another cam sensor same thing, swapped mpi fusible link, verified alll connectors in right places, swapped ignitor as well im not a newbie but this thing is gettin frustating fuel pump is engagin anhy ideas thanks in advance!..:beatentodeath:
 
First make sure you have +12V on one side of each injector (if not check mpi relay and fuse and injectors resistors). You will probably read +12V on both sides since the other side floats until it gets a very short pulse to ground by the ECU. [You can unplug each injector to verify the +12V is really only on one side. You can then plug it back in and touch the other side (not the +12V side) to ground (can stick a pin through the wire insulation to get at wire) to make sure the injectors work - this will also test the resistors continuity]. If ok, then check continuity from that other side of each injector connector (unplug it) to the proper pin on the ECU per the manual. If ok, then your problem must either be the ECU or devices which the ECU needs to fire injectors (eg. cam sensor, mpi relay, etc). BTW is this a turbo?
 
luv2rallye said:
First make sure you have +12V on one side of each injector (if not check mpi relay and fuse and injectors resistors). You will probably read +12V on both sides since the other side floats until it gets a very short pulse to ground by the ECU. [You can unplug each injector to verify the +12V is really only on one side. You can then plug it back in and touch the other side (not the +12V side) to ground (can stick a pin through the wire insulation to get at wire) to make sure the injectors work - this will also test the resistors continuity]. If ok, then check continuity from that other side of each injector connector (unplug it) to the proper pin on the ECU per the manual. If ok, then your problem must either be the ECU or devices which the ECU needs to fire injectors (eg. cam sensor, mpi relay, etc). BTW is this a turbo?


He already check the mpi fuse and the connections to the fuel injectors. I dont believe its a fuel problem. I believe its more of a timing problem....
 
LunarEclips said:
He already check the mpi fuse and the connections to the fuel injectors. I dont believe its a fuel problem. I believe its more of a timing problem....
I think so too but he's so insistant it's an injector problem that I thought I'd tell him how to test them. But most likely the ECU isn't firing the injectors because of some other problem which has priority (like timing).
 
LunarEclips said:
He already check the mpi fuse and the connections to the fuel injectors. I dont believe its a fuel problem. I believe its more of a timing problem....
I've been working on this laser for a while now with gsxonjackstands, and we're sure it's a fuel problem because we've replaced the ecu, cam sensor, and injectors along with trying multiple heads, and we spend a long time making sure it was timed correctly the problem is that the injectors aren't getting the signal to fire because a noid light doesn't show any signal.
 
I am having the same exact problem! I had my ecu repaired, cap replaced. Fuel pressure is within specs, I have adaquite spark i.e. poured starting fluid down the intake... started & ran for a min. had injectors tested & work properly. 12v at the injector wires, what sensor would possibly block the ecu from firing the injectors? Cam angle sensor? but my plugs are firing... I doubt i have a short, but I will check anyhow, Could anyone think of somethin I missed? thanks
 
haha.. i am having the exact same problem as well.. i have a 90 laser rs n/t. im getting good spark.. plenty of fuel pressure to the fuel rail.. my injectors just arent fireing.. i just had my ecu repaired and it still wont work.. if i spray ether into my cyliners the car will start but not run. it just cuts off after it runs out of ether. i have 12+ volts at the injectors. i just got a wiring diagram for the whole ignition system.. and im pretty sure everything is wired correctly. i have no clue what to do next?
 
On the 90's the cas plugs in over at the firewall.

I've had issues with the actual harness connection where the male/female pins *should* be connected.

I could wiggle the connector some and get a misfire, and then get it to flat die.

Closer inspection revealed the female harness pins were slightly bent out, and the pins had some corrosion on them. I bent the pins back (gently) with a 90* pick, and then cleaned the pins with some radio shack contact cleaner/enhancer. It's been all good ever since.

Remember, the cas has 2 trigger wheel tracks, and 2 pickups.

One with four evenly spaced pulses, and one with 2 irregularly spaced pulses. The ecu needs to see both triggers to be able to generate the injector pulse.

I would quadriple check the cas connector over at the firewall.
 
check your coolant sensors on the thermostat housing. If one is shot or not plugged in it could cause this.
 
hypnotized24s said:
why would a coolant sensor make it not send an injector pulse?
I had no spark once and I hooked up a noid light and had nothing. I found a coolant sensor was unplugged and plugged it in and all of a sudden I had spark. Coincidence....maybe. Worth a shot.....definately.
 
anything is worth a try about now.. i just am not gettin an injector pulse, i am getting a pulse from the CAS to the processor chip in the ecu. and i even jumped power to my injectors and they fire, and even have fuel. something is either wrong with my ecu or somethings not letting my ecu create an injector pulse, what would stop my injectors?
 
Theres a connection for the injectors that the harness is connected to should be on the driver side. This is what all the injectors tie into check that cause I had the same problem the car would turn over and spark but just no fuel. Plugged it back in and taped it so it wouldnt come loose and its been fine ever since.
 
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