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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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There is no replacing the FIAV. You just replace the throttle body. However I would check to make sure you are not losing fuel pressure somewhere. I had a lose bolt for my FPR once that caused a hard start and cold idle issues but it never leaked a drop.
 
Ok so I decided to go wash my car because it's 42 degrees now and supposed to be 19 tomorrow. I wanted it to be clean before I put the cover back on it. I expect to have to do the long process of cranking over and over until it fires and warms up. To my surprise it fires up on the first try and runs perfectly with the exception of the idle being a little high. The check engine light is on but quickly goes out. I drive it and the car runs great and the check engine light doesn't come back on! It makes no sense to me but maybe the system finally reset after all the work replacing sensors? I hope it stays fixed!!!! Prayers work!
 
Or it could be a fuel filter issue. sediment clogging up the element, falling out whIle the car sits, then re-clogging after running. I've had other cars do that, totally random, similar scenario tho. I wouldn't call it magically fixed just yet.
 
just recently I got my car out the shop for a motor swap. When they were finishing it up they were having trouble gettin it started. They got it to start I guess there was a problem with the ground. I got it back they told me the alternator was bad. When I drove it home from the shop it kept dieing instantly after jumping it so I got it towed. I swapped the alternator put a brand new battery in. The car cranks good but it won't start up. its getting fuel, It's got good spark, brand new starter and spark plugs. The shop did the timing on it. I'm running out of Ideas. Anyone got any suggestions?
 
Big 80 amp fuse in the engine bay blown??? Check it with a meter not just a visual.
 
I had to re-read your post. You are saying it DOES have spark and fuel? If the big fuse were blown you wouldn't have spark...also usually a lot of pretty lights all over the dash when that happens too.
 
just recently I got my car out the shop for a motor swap. When they were finishing it up they were having trouble gettin it started. They got it to start I guess there was a problem with the ground. I got it back they told me the alternator was bad. When I drove it home from the shop it kept dieing instantly after jumping it so I got it towed. I swapped the alternator put a brand new battery in. The car cranks good but it won't start up. its getting fuel, It's got good spark, brand new starter and spark plugs. The shop did the timing on it. I'm running out of Ideas. Anyone got any suggestions?
Check compression. Car may have jumped timing.
 
Compression do you have a code check the power transistor. The coolant temp sensor those,are places to look how about the ecu for burned grounds.
 
if car jumps timing that can cause it to lose compression? I guess it probably makes sense I just didnt think it would show up like that is it sometjhing like loss on 2 cylinders?
I believe so because if the valves got damaged due to the timing jump then you won't get a good seal in the cylinder and thus low compression.
 
Are the sparkplug wires with the correct cylinders on the coil packs? And is the car a 2g with a 6 bolt swap? If its a 6 bolt swap on a 95 you have to do the cas wire swap if I remember right. ECMlink sells the harness for that.

Aa far as the timing is concerned which would be a worst case scenario just check your timing marks and see if they are all lined up before you conclude the issue is a jumped timing belt.
 
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agreed, if its a 6 bolt swap then u have to switch the spark plug wires around. and if u have dsm link make sure the appropriate settings are set. I know that was a problem for me when I did my swap and then I got it going after I rechecked the settings and switched plug wires
 
It's a 7 bolt motor, the old motor was a 7bolt to. Anyways I took the fuel rail off there was a bad injector. A bolt was stripped so I orderd a new one should be here today or tomorrow. I'm gunna put that back on and do some more test. Keep the ideas comin tho I'm gunna check everything and get back to you guys.
 
Theres two devices on your car for idling 1. Isc motor 2. Fiav. Your problem sounds like fiav. Its either bad or theres air trapped in the coolant section of it. Try bleeding the air or swapping in another one. Its possible isc is bad but you would have idle problemd all the time not just cold. It should be removed/cleaned and checked for proper operation.

I share the same opinion.
I had this problem long time ago, replaced isc two times, and it was fiav problem. I put fiav blockoff plate because my car is no longer a winter car. No problem since.
 
for the fuel filter couldn't you cut out the fuel filter and run a gas line between the cuts to rule it out? not sure if you would want to do away with the fuel filter... just thinking out loud
 
I'm thinking fuel filter, dirty injectors or ecu. Have you checked or tested the injectors? Here is a video of a simple method.

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The random nature makes me wonder if ecu.
 
Got a problem and I don't know where to start solving it. The car turns over but just won't start. I charged the battery and still same result. I just replaced the oil housing coolant hose because it sprung a leak. I did the heater core hoses too as a precautionary maintenance. Drove it around the block to make sure there wasn't any leaks. Then parked it tried to start it the next day and no go. Only extra thing I can think of it I found an acorn on top of my valve cover. Which means there was a mouse under the hood at some point. Could he had chewed threw a wire that would cause this problem. Is there anything else I should check? How do I see if my fuel pump died, check the fuel pressure gauge while cranking it? It has a brand new starter in it. Any suggestions at a starting point would be helpful.
Thanks
John
 
Got the car started. Coolant temp sensor plug fell out. The clip that holds it in is all busted up. So I ducted/electrical taped it together. Do they sell new ones? The harness/wires are so old and britle it sucks. That what to check if ur car doesn't start guide really helped me cuz it gave me the idea to look there. Thanks for the help.
 
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