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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
always good to just double check the base timing. Don't want it to fire if its off. Just the smart thing to do.
 
Problem solved.

Turned out to be a faulty IAC. Two coils died. Got a third ecu and relay, unplugged the iac and it ran (albeit like shit).
 
I'm trying to figure out why I have no spark on a 90 talon tsi. I have swapped the ecu with a good one. bought a new coil. swapped the power transistor with a good one. everything I have searched I have tried and it came out good. I cant seem to find the issue. I would really appreciate some help.

thanks
 
Buy a multimeter if you don't already have one. Than from there test the wiring from the ecu to the transistor, and from the transistor to the coil. You could of also tested the coil pack and transistor with a multimeter. If the wiring is good and you have power at the coil the next step would be to test the cam sensor. Since you have a good coil, a good transistor and supposedly a good ecu, it is either going to be in the wiring from the ecu to the coil, power to the coil, wiring to the cam sensor, or the cam sensor.
 
Yeah if it's a 90 your ignition pulses will be driven off of the signal given from the cam sensor. That, the transistor, or the coils would be your next stop just as the above poster has mentioned. Since you've said you get spark on nothing, i'd suspect the cam sensor or the transistor. Typically if a coil was bad the other one would still fire, and in my experience a transistor seems to also like to die on one side only, meaning two cylinders would still fire on a faulty one. That can vary of course though.
 
1990 CAS units doesn't have the plug like the later 1G vehicles, for all this CAS has is just four wires heading out of the housing...and the insulation is exposed to the heat from the motor.

All of this heat can eventually bake the wires to a crisp and cause inner corrosion under the insulation.

I was going to try to do a rewire of my CAS, but found out that the under the round cover of the CAS had some serious corrosion as well.

Thus did a replacement of the CAS and back on the road again..

..and my Laser, today, just turned over the 200K mile mark.

-DSM
 
Sweet good deal like to see more on the road. Didnt want you to waste time on this after all the parts you did troubleshoot it down tho. Doing a tranny swap this weekend when its a cold spell in east thank god for garages.
 
Hey guys I have a 1995 eagle talon tsi fwd auto turbo. I got it from a friend and he said it needed
a fuel pump. So when I got the car home I stared messing with it found the
car has no fuel at fuEl rail no spark what so ever and no check engine light when
turning the key. Had a friend scan it and he said the car was not talking back to the
scanner. So I picred up a working ecu and still nothing I have replaced the
spark plugs and wires any ides thanks
 
Still no fuel at the rail and still no spark the guy I bought the ecu from had the car running when he pulled it out for me to buy.
 
Ok so sounds like you either have some bad relays or fuses. Check the mpi fuse to start with, also check and make sure all your grounds are in place. And you may want to pull the fuel pump and bench test it to see If it even works or not.
 
Key on ...fully on but not cranking...ce light should light for a few seconds and go off. If that doesnt happen and it seems you have a known good ecu check mpi fuse at battery. Its reasonable to assume the ecu has no power. Its basic wire tracing at this point. Not particularly didficult but tedious sometimes. Go look at obvious stuff...fuses etc. Do not throw parts at it
 
Do you know we're it is the main fuse and I see in some cases it is a cps not trying to sound stupid I just don't know what to really do getting frustrated haha thank you for the information will reply with updates.
 
It's the big fuse marked "ENGINE" in a 2G. The CPS will not prevent the ECU from powering up. As Paul stated, a good sign that the ECU has powered up is the Check Engine Light coming on when the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. The CEL should turn off by itself after about five seconds without you doing anything else.
 
My money is on a ground. I always like to clean up my grounds with a file to ensure good metal to metal contact, whenever I buy an older car, Good luck!
 
check power and ground right at the ecu then u will know what circut to look at. probably just a relay. also check the park/neutral swith
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. I appreciate the help. I have figured it out. It was the coolant temp sensor. The single wire sensor. I unhooked it and got spark but then the injectors weren't pulsing and that ending up being the computer.
 
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