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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Have you checked the clutch safety switch? that will also keep the starter from working. The p0335 is crank position sensor but it still has nothing to do with the starter.
I Actually disabled my clutch switch awhile ago so I don't need the clutch to start the car. I'm gonna double check the fuses and relays and make sure they are all good. Do you have an explanation for the clicking/ticking sound when I put connect the battery? I posted a video of it.
 
So, you checked the starter trigger wire, and it's getting 12v when the key is turned to start?

You need to use a multi meter, and check every item in the chain that leads to the starter cranking.

Also, your YouTube video is private.
 
So, you checked the starter trigger wire, and it's getting 12v when the key is turned to start?

You need to use a multi meter, and check every item in the chain that leads to the starter cranking.

Also, your YouTube video is private.
ok I'll check all connections related to the starter and get back to you. Also sorry about the video I'll fix it and repost it
 
I fixed the video and reposted it.. anyone know what that sound is? I'm pretty sure it's related to my no start problem

Sounds like the ISC, it clicks when the ignition is turned on. Check for voltage at the wire I told you to check while someone turns the key.
 
My buddy has a 96 gsx with I think a td14 turbo or something like that and aftermarket market injectors. Basically he is getting spark and plenty of fuel but wont start, it just turns over but wont start. I feel its a crank or cam postion sensor. It will start sometimes but very rarely. Its basically getting to much fuel
 
Well I guess it jumped Timimg, took the valve cover off and all the rocker arms were off, but they all look good and the lifters look good!
 
There's ways to do it yourself but you're better off Taking it to a machine shop and having them pressure check it for you
Sometimes u cant see a bent valve. Better to have it tested and be safe. If u do have bent valves have them replace them, here its like 125 for pressure testing and resurfacing. Well worth the money
 
I am not sure if this is relevant to the forum. But I have a 1993 Eagle Talon DL. But I have tried a number of other places on the internet, and a tuner forum seems to be one of the last places I can turn for help. With your members advanced knowledge about these cars, I was hoping I could find help here.

Current Issue: Car refuses to start. It cranks normally but it doesn't start up.

Recent History: We recently tested it and found it wasn't getting spark, so we replaced the entire distributor (which includes the coil and ignition module). However we are still not getting a spark, and the TAC doesn't move when attempting to start.

History: I got the car about 7 years ago. It worked originally but then the timing belt went out. We also found that the Head Gasket needed to be replaced. We replaced those as well as the Throttle Position Sensor, Idle Control Motor, Mass Airflow Sensor. After all this it was running, but it still had some minor starting issues.

Also replaced was the Power Steering Coolant Line, Battery, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Fuel Filter, Distributor Cap, Oil, Oil Pan Gasket, and Muffler.

However after this it sat for awhile waiting for the brakes and brake lines to be done. But to this day it has not been driven more then 60 miles. So we are trying to finally get it on the road, but have had nothing but problems since I got it. Any help would be appreciated.


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The car isn't in the best condition, but I want to get it running before I spend a great deal on fixing up it's exterior. It looks really sad, I know. But it looked like this when we got it (except we removed the remaining rim cover).
 
I had the exact problem. I didn't know that the cam angle sensor had an orientation because it fits both ways... You basically have a 50/50 chance of getting it right (0 or 180 degrees). Try switching it and see what happens. It worked for me.
 
Though it wont start, have you tried a check engine scanner? When my TSI wouldn't start, I put my scanner to it and got a crank position sensor code.[DOUBLEPOST=1407685201][/DOUBLEPOST]
Though it wont start, have you tried a check engine scanner? When my TSI wouldn't start, I put my scanner to it and got a crank position sensor code.

When I rebuilt the engine after a timing belt brake, I didn't know the sensor was broken.
 
Like these guys are saying crank position sensor. But i would pull the oil pan off and see if you have much crank walk, if its not in the wrong orientation that is. Because if thats the issue crank walk is a very viable option. However when your doing research dont let most guys on here convince you that the 7 bolt is less superior to a 6 bolt. If thats your issue youll see why I say this.
Hope this helps if its not the orientation!
 
Yes, that's what I was gonna say, what cc per min are they and how are you compensating for them? I mean how are you guys tuning, safc( I hope not), link, jackal/ww? It it's possible to be too rich, that'll wash the oil off your cylinder walls, then glaze and that's bad.
 
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