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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Any luck yet man? I had an issue yesterday with mine and it turned out to be a loose connection somewhere in the ignition switch itself. I literally with the key turned all the way jiggled it a little in the ignition and it cranked right up. I know thus may not be the case with yours but just figured I'd give my input. Let us know what you find out. Good luck!
 
like the others said start with the no start link. check those first. it may or may not help but atleast you have those checked.

for me i just had a no start issue. i was fixing my CTS and messing with LINK. i turned the ignition off but realized i still wanted LINK up. so i immediately turned the ignition to back on. Car never turned off and i kept it running for a few more minutes. I turned the car completely off and came back to it some time later and i get the no crank issue. first thought was my quick ignition OFF/ON starter. i hear my fuel pump prime. i hear the relays clicking. checked all connections, battery terminals, fuses, and all those checked out good. car starts if i connect my battery charger. doesn't start if not connected.

Sunday spent the morning troubleshooting the issue(s) again. after a few unsuccessful attempts i decided to give the starter a few wacks with a hammer. car started right up. turn it off and it won't start. i go to autozone and get a replacement even after 3 stores (including AZ) tested the starter good. I'm not convinced and asked for a replacement. get it home, swapped in the new starter, and car starts up.

try reaching underneath the IM and giving the starter a few wacks with a hammer/mallet. see if that helps in your case considering it started at one point.
 
I went to another parts store and got it looked at again/tested. Solenoid was getting 12v but the starter itself wasn't doing anything. Got a replacement and just threw it in. Went to start it and it worked, but I hesitated to keep cranking since I heard a loud sound like the gears weren't lined up?? Not sure. Still looking into it.
 
I keep on loosening it up and trying to "realign" it so the gears match up. I think I've got it pretty good but it doesn't sound like my old starter upon star up. Maybe because this one's new & has more juice flowing through it. Sounds like a old car starting up then a tiny squeal and then it's running.
 
Not trying to be a smart ass but do you guys understand how a starter works? I'm assuming your talking about the the gear on the starter not lining up with the flywheel right? They aren't supposed to make constant contact.... Of they are that's not good it means your starter solenoid isn't retracting once you let off the ignition. You also want to make sure that of there were shims in place where the starter bolts up, that the new one is shimmed accordingly to ensure you don't tear up the teeth on your new starter as well as your flywheel. Is it making any whining noises or anything after you start it?

Also might want to check and see if they gave you the right starter. If I'm not mistaken 1g t doesn't matter but 2g the starter for the automatic or manual are completely different to include have a longer throw. Would also be a good idea to take a look (if you can) at the teeth on the flywheel to make sure nothing was hurt.
 
I recently got a talon on trade. 1.8 . I drove it home about 20 miles. When I got to town the thing died on me . thought I was out of gas. Went and got gas and came back to the car and it took me a while to get it started. It would crank but not start. I finally got it started and made it home. Came to reliaize I couldn't start it again when I got home. Discoved if I take the battery off for a while or if I let the car cool down I can usually get it to start. It has an exhaust leak by the flexpipe.i can start the car every time the first time during the day. After it warms up it will just crank. When it Wont fire its not getting any spark. But will crank. All stock no mods. I have checked the ecu caps and they look good. Any idea.
 
Hello everyone
I am having a no start problem
I remove exhaust manifold, turbo, fuel injectors, ignition module,
All wires within the area of air intake, and coolant lines.
I cleaned them up because i hit a deer and when i got home to check i saw my cylinder head drench with oil so i took them apart to clean and check.
So i returned everything back and when i start, crank and crank, it sounded like its gonna start but then not, then back fire and some white smoke in the exhaust ...
Sill does after a coule more of tries.
Can a blown turbo will make the head gasket blow too?
Change my gas.
I didnt touch the engine
Could it be something that i might have forgot?
Injectors are fine......
Could it be the injector harness? Ignition module?
Pls help
 
Well you need to verify that you're getting fuel and spark. But it sounds like possibly the wrong firing order. what year is the car, ecu, and engine?
 
A turbo can cause the car to smoke if oil is getting through the seals.

I would double check to make sure you put the connectors in the correct location.

You should do a compression test because it seems like your getting spark and fuel.
 
At the end of last race season I left my dirt hornet car outside and had no-start issues. I have my first race tomorrow and I was wondering if my turbo ecu will at least let my car start so I know its an ecu and not a transistor or etc. Thanks in advance.
 
If you use a turbo ECU, you need everything a turbo car has. Injectors , MAF.... All that changes depending on year ,drivetrain , etc..

The fuel and timing maps will be different.
But if you have all the necessary items and a proper way to tune it can be done.
 
If you use a turbo ECU, you need everything a turbo car has. Injectors , MAF.... The Fuel and Timing maps all vary depending on year , model, drivetrain , etc..

But if you have all the necessary items and a proper way to tune it can be done.

not trying to be rude but did you even read my post?
 
Yes, do you understand what I'm trying to tell you ?
The MAF and Injectors are matched to the ECU if you do not have these things the car won't be able to read airflow correctly or inject the correct amount of fuel.

Not ideal things to be happening when you're attempting to diagnose a problem , but by all means go for it.
 
I put it back as per haynes.
From left to right 4-3-2-1
On coil pack 4-1-2-3
This the right caonnections right....
I think i dont have spark on #3 cylinder....

Ill let you guys know what happen
Thank you all for your replies
 
I tested my coil pack as what haynes askes to do..and i get readings off of the chart...
So then i remembered that i mremove the bracket...
It was firing the wrong order....so i switch it up d boom there it is...
Its what they use to say "learn the lesson the hard way"c or as most call stupid
Lol
 
I have a 1996 turbo talon. The motor recently blew in it threw a rod. I went and purchased a running talon with a whole in the tranny. I was able to drive this car 10 miles home. I could then let the car idle forever ran flawlessly. I took the motor out I didn't take off the timing cover or mess with anything interally just used the lift dropped the whole motor out the bottom changed trannys and right back in. Now I have everything hooked up and it will just not start. I crank on it and it acts like timing is off The thing is I didn't even take off the timing cover or anything the wrecked car was a 96 talon as well I even swapped ecus to be sure the motor stayed with it's ecu. The car is getting adequate spark and fuel and compression. It acts like it wants to start then just cranks real slow for a second like timing is off. Someone please give me some ideas to try.
 
Pump relay sees 12.4v. Mpi relay click pump turns on. Fuel is at the rail. Plugs smell like fuel but are not saturated. There are signs of spark. The engine will puff once but won't run even with throttle when starter fluid is applied. All other times it will crank and crank and crank. No funny noises but doesn't sound like its completing the cycle.
I removed the cas at TDC. With key on and cas plugged in and turning it by hand nothing happens, no relays or injectors clicks, does that mean its bad?

I have another cas, I believe It's a 90. It's metal with its own harness, how can I use it on a 94 harness? The wires are different anyone know how they go?
 
Alright my car wont start obviously I was driving to work down the interstate on a tuesday afternoon when my car started to make an extremely loud and annoying what sounded like a knocking or slapping noise. I slowed down and baby it the next two miles to work. I look under the hood and got more oil then usual under the car (my valve cover is cracked) the oil was coming from directly underneath the oil pump sprocket. 12 hours later I go to leave work and start it up and it fires right up just fine no problem, no noise what so ever. I drive it for the next three days in that time frame i fix the boost leak and my oil pressure is low when its idlieng and fine when driving but no knock or slapping noise of any kind. Then on Saturday morning I check my oil see that its low add a quart since thats all it said i was low and went to start my car and it wouldn't start and was making the slapping/knocking noise again, I would have to continously crank it to get it to start but would just die right away if i didn't give it gas. It then wouldn't start at all just would crank but no noise. I know i probably did flood it. But my car has sit since then in my work parking lot. Now Ive checked timing because it sounded like it got thrown off and that was fine from what i can see, Ive checked for spark, Ive checked for fuel those are both good (also tried starting fluid still nothing). Tuesday before work I checked my plugs they looked fine, now they are black. Ive got power. No CEL light on. IDK if there is a BSE on the car or not. But could the oil pump or BS cause the car to not start and be making that noise? My car does occasionally die when I press the clutch in and has a rough idle sometimes. Ever since I replaced the head but I believe that's cause I haven't had the opportunity to

when I bought it the guy had a bunch of stuff screwed up and have already had to replace the head because he didn't put it back together right and the axle shaft because he didn't put the axle carrier bearing bolts back in.
 
91 Laser AWD. No Spark. Fresh rebuild. Wired in SAFC 2.
I changed out the CAS, PTU, coils, plugs, and wires, with known working ones. MPI/MFI fuses are good.
ECU had no burn spots, or anything abnormal. CEL does come on.
Its getting power to the CAS/PTU/Coils. It just wont spark.
MPI clicks when cranked, and clicks a few seconds after key is to the OFF position

I dont know what to look at next. Any ideas?

Did a test (Of sorts) with a test light on the coil. It gets power on the wires on the back of the coil, as well as the harness plug. I pulled cyl #3 plug wire from the coil, and stuck in the Power Light tester. Cranked it over and the light never came on.

So maybe something that tells it when to spark is the culprit?
ECU and MPI relay were the only 2 things I havent changed.
 
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