The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounds like the air to fuel ratio is off. Usually carbon on plugs means running lean instead of rich. Sounds like its time to get it re tuned enless you know how to adjust everything yourself
 
Check your spark plug gap as well just to be sure. Gap it to .25 to help keep from blowing any spark out from too much gas (or boost, if its running)

edit: also if its a 5 speed try to pull it behind a vehicle or push it down a hill and pop the clutch in 2nd to force it to start. This should make it start even if the tune is off, isnt always the best solution but it should get it running temporarily.
 
So I removed the aftermarket, and the factory alarm. Thought everything was good, hopped in the car and i could'nt hear my fuel pump.

During removal of the aftermarket alarm, I noticed that they hacked up the Fuel Pump Rewire.

Before all of this when I would turn the key to the "On" position, the fuel pump would start to run.

So I reinstalled the rewire as per VFAQ, and now when I turn the key to the "On" position, nothing happens, however when I try to start the car, I can hear the pump run. So I know that I installed the rewire correctly. The thing that I don't understand is that the engine will not fire. Before the removal everything was fine. I recently conducted a hard reset of the ecu, from that point on everything was to spec. airflowperrev was hovering around 25-28 ISC was hovering around 30. I mean everything was perfect.



Could the car not having the factory security system allow it to be permanently "immobilized"? While I was down there I was removing the aftermarket harness and reconnecting everything that they snipped. I have looked for over 2 hours and I can not find a loose wire anywhere. Maybe I need to reset the ECU again?

Attached is a log showing what I think to be the pertinent information for my problem.

Spark verified, fuel to rail verified, operation of injectors via 9V battery verified. Looks like its a wiring problem. off to the trusty ohm meter...grrrr
 

Attachments

  • log.2013.07.26-01.elg
    12 KB · Views: 40
Last edited:
Sounds like the injectors aee to big. I would look into getting it tuned and that shoukd rectify your issue.
 
If you got air fuel and spark, check your crank position sensor. I had my trigger plate installed upside down by accident when I had a no start issue. Same symptoms. Flooded cylinders, wet spark plugs, even after everything was confirmed to be working properly.
 
Backstory: This weekend I decided to get all of my boost leaks in order and replaced the Intake mani gasket with a Heat barrier gasket from STM, Deleted the EGR, Deleted the EVAP( I kept both the EGR and EVAP Solenoids for no CEL).
It did the trick and all the leaks were gone.

Now to the Problem:
I did a couple of pulls and she did great with 18 pounds, and just when I turn into my neighborhood to put it away. The I lost PS and the engine bogged down.
Now It wont even crank, in fact the only things that turn on is anything that can be when the key is on "ACC." even though it kept it at "start" I can turn on the lights all over the car but thats about it.

I know it's and electrical problem and not mechanical, any ideas?

Thanks, Edward
 
Will be doing that, but absolutely nothing happens when I try to crank the car. All the lights around the car turn on, but not the Brake light, CEL, or anything in that realm. I feel like it might be some sort of fuse but which fuse do you think it'd be? Same thing happened with my 82' Silverwing not to long away but that ended up being the "main fuse".
 
Will be doing that when I have some free time, But I'll keep this thread live.
 
If you lost power steering then either the pump failed, you lost fluid, or your belt came off. You did check that the belt was still there right? Seeing as you lost power I'm inclined to think you lost your belt and it took out the alternator belt at the same time (or the intermediate pulley came off).

Car should still start on battery though so you may have wiring issues or a battery problem as well.
 
Mitsucrazy glad to hear I'm not the only one having to problem
Today I actually got it to turn over but as the engine started running I heard
Clunk noises as some was hittin or major backfire
Anyone know the solution to our problems ?!?
Help

Mitsucrazy glad to hear I'm not the only one having to problem
Today I actually got it to turn over but as the engine started running I heard
Clunk noises as some was hittin or major backfire
Anyone know the solution to our problems ?!?
Help
 
Just found the problem and fixed it.
The Ignition Switch Moteur fuse (a pink 30A fuse under the hood) blew.
So I switched it from a spare wiring harness I have and fired right up.

It all makes sense now why I experienced all of those symptoms (Loss of PS,
followed by a bogged down engine, no radio, no starter, no cluster lights)
The only things that worked were, interior light, headlights, and brake lights.
Hopes this helps you guys in the future. Thanks

-Edward
 
Have you checked your timing OMGitsbao? You said you heard it sound like something was hitting so I'd make sure your timing is good. Just an idea atleast, I've checked mine and I believe it's right but I may have to double check again myself. I'll let you know what I find out about my car soon I've got some good mechanic buddies helping me look at my car now so surely I'll figure it out soon.
 
hmmm might have something to do with voltage drop while the car is cranking? That's the only difference I see between cranking the CAS by hand and letting the car crank it.

Unless maybe the piece that turns the CAS is stripped. With the CAS removed from the head, look inside where the CAS mounts. While cranking it make sure the camshaft is actually turning the piece that drives the CAS.

If that looks fine, check the voltage supply to the power transistor while cranking and see what voltage is present.
 
Some other quick things to check.. Because he just got it, make sure the plugs have the right gap. Make sure fuel is making it to the fuel rail. If it isn't, you could have either a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top