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Start of my 6bolt JDM swap and auto to manual swap

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Another thing I ran into you have to change doing the AT/MT swap is if you have an LSD and the new diff is not as in my case you need to change the passenger side rear CV shaft and mine is a MF to get out. Im taking the torches home today so you can imagine how siezed it is!
 
Very nice work on a very large project.... and subscribe.

Oh yeah, wanna let me use your garage? Damn its nice. :thumb:
 
kelvinb said:
are you going to part out that car at all?

Let me know what you are after and I can work something out with you. Its in the classifieds as a part out car.
 
Wow, Jamie this thread is awesome. Sorry I couldn't come over tonight, something came up and I couldn't make it though I really wanted to, trust me. OMG

I can't wait to see the rest of your pics.. :thumb:
 
The rear CV shaft is in there look how much we beat on that some bi***! I had to remove the whole deal and take it to work tomorow and hit it up on the press we beat the bloody thing to death and nothing. I even heated it with the real torch (O2 and acetelyne) nothing!
 

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6bolt on the floor with the trans on this was the last step before I put it on the cart in the following pictures. Its ready to bolt into my car at this point.
 

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Couple more shots of the prepped engine.
 

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Here is my motor on the cart we used to put it in with. We used the cherry picker to set it on the cart which has 4 casters then we could position the motor under the car and line it up fairly easily.
 

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A view from the top thats the motor in the car there but not lined up. Following are a couple shots of it and how off it was from the mounts we had to more it around a bit but it went in.
 

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Last one for the night this is the motor all bolted in but I hadn't lifted the car yet to pull the cart out.

Question for the followers here is anyone interested in how we are removing the rear diff and front drive shafts or is it pretty stupid proof? I ask because I am working on that and I can take somes pics if anyone needs.
 

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OH BTW in the posts the ignighter pack and coil are mounted to the manifold it won't work like that the harness is to short so don't both making it nice and mounting them there.
 
Something I ran into tonight with the MT swap part of the deal. The shaft that comes from the drivers side of the trans (intermedate)??? shaft I dunno whats it called. Its the solid one that bolts to the block of the car and then the CV joint goes on it. Yeah its about 1" shorter on the manual then the auto so you are gonna need that shaft if doing the swap.
 
Where did you end up mounting the coil etc?

Oh and awesome thread thus far. :thumb:
 
Gonna mill up a bracket tomorrow at work pics to follow no worries there :p
 
Here are a couple shots of what i did to the coil bracket.





This courtesy of Silver2GSt i found in another post



Basically the plug wires are real easy, just swap the wires from one coil pack to the other. from left to right the wires use to be { 4 1 } { 2 3 } now you will make it like this { 2 3 } { 4 1 } ... that has to be done on any year 2G.

At RRE's website under the CAS section you will see where they mention that the injectors are 90* out on the 95-96 ECUs. Now its not a big problem they say but they mention it will allow the car to start and idle better and overall run smoother. you'll need the ECU pin out from www.vfaq.com but basically you have to rearrange the injectors like so:

Injector wire 2 becomes injector 1
Injector wire 3 becomse injector 2
Injector wire 4 becomes injector 3
Injector wire 1 becomes injetcor 4

Check it out on RRE just be sure and to get the wire colors. I haven't fixed my dead o2 sensor and have not done the injector wire swap but plan on doing both tomorrow
 

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Here are a couple courtesty of DSMJIM from him car.
 

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You bastard you stole my pics hhhaha. That honestly is a great spot to mount the coil pack. It's out of the way, the stock 2g ignition wires fit and you can just modify the regular coil pack bracket to make it all work.
 
hellotbone said:
6bolt ready to go just gotta bolt the tranny up to it and drop it in the hole.

Precision Mitsu flanged t3-t4 50 trim pictured.
where did u get that exact turbo??? can u link me to it


how long did this all take you to do?
 
It's a precision turbo t3/t4 50 trim bolt on internal wasted turbo. PM DSMJIM to get the exact P/N for it cuz Im not sure he got it for me from the performane shop he was working at. Same with my IC.

If I wasn't doing the At/MT swap at the same time in a garage equipped like mine I would say max time would be 8-12 hours thats to replace timing belts and all. A complete motor ready to swap in with no BS like getting CV joints apart etc would be much less.
 
I have allready swapped my motor in but now here comes the tough part that i dont like.... the wiring. There are so many more wires on a 2g than a 1g. I need a list of which sensors are a must for plugging in for a 2g. I would rather not have a cel but its almost impossible witht he way i set my car up.

I know I need...

2g o2 sensor
2g knock sensor
2g coolant temp sensor
2g oil preasure sensor
2g throttle position sensor
anything else?
I am blocking off my egr valve so I have to find out where the egr valve position sensor is
I have a keydiver chip in my 95 ecu.
I have a 91 style oil filter housing allready on
I hear a 91 coil pack will work
I would like to eliminate all possible emitions stuff since I dont have emissions here. Anything I am forgetting about wiring this thing up?
 
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