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Start of my 6bolt JDM swap and auto to manual swap

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Simple Easy Answer :NO

They are diffrent. It sucks :notgood:
 
He's right I have a beauty non leaker auto tcase that I would love to swap for my seeping MT tcase!
 
Did you end up having to get a new rear roll stopper bracket and not the actual mount? Also, what did you use to run your clutch line. If you used brake line, what fittings can I use for the master/slave cylinders. Thanks.
 
SS Line i was going to use for the clutch line.
 
Projects really moving along! Looks awesome. It's funny b/c i just did a little tranny work myself and my speed sensor broke in the exact same place, Hmm? No biggie just intresting. Good luck man keep it up!!! :dsm:
 
Okay. Well I just put the motor/tranny back in the engine bay. Yikes, the side motor mount isn't going to work, and neither is the rear. :notgood:
 
yeah u need the mt trans mounts, its on my list.
 
The only mount that is different is the one that secures the transmission to the frame. The MT is different from the AT one. I did not have to change the rear or front roll mounts they are the exact same don't change them.
 
the whole thing, i have a scan from mitsu caps of it, but the AT and the MT are totaly diffrent.
 

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21813 is the mount you need for the MT trans. You just need that alumanium mount.
 
Great thanks guys. I'll order 21831 for the MT and order a new clutch line from them also.
 
Ahh I'm going CRAZY trying to get this top mount deal figured out. I ordered what I thought was the bracket for the top of the trans, well instead I got the MT mount which I do need. They say they cannot find the bracket it bolts down to on top of the trans in their caps system. There is a mounting plate, right? Where the trans sits, it doesn't even look like the mount will work going into the brackets on the bodyside. Any tips or suggestions?
 
Hey tree hows the swap running? I have quite a few K on mine now and so far so good just like it was meant to be.
 
Around 15000 miles and running strong.

Did have some issues right after the swap. It was a bad rear LSD but that was taken care of and wasnt any side effect from the swap.

Now I'm rdy to ditch the 7bolt and the little old 16g. ROFL
---

Hey you're a wiseman, congrats! :thumb:
 
Yeah this swap is my claim to fame :shhh: dsmjim taught me quite a bit to that I can apply now tuning wise.
 
I just want to ask for approval of the following:

-AUTO LSD Rear => MANUAL LSD Rear: Rear axles are interchangable
-AUTO LSD Rear => MANUAL Non-LSD Rear: You need to use the manual's rear axles

-As for the front axles, you need to use both driver and passenger axles from the manual transmission, including the intermediate shaft. Front AUTO and MANUAL are NOT interchangable.

Can you please correct/confirm me if I'm wrong/right on the posted bullets?

edit:
Found the answer on my own. If you have the rear LSD, they fit. I'm 70% done with my conversion with a donor car as well. Just waiting on new clutch/flywheel, and SS lines.
 
Does anyone have pictures that can show what exactly needs to be done to modify an Automatic shell to recieve a Manual Trans/Clutch pedal assembly? This thread has everything pretty clear, but I'm a little uncertain of how you go about mounting up the clutch pedal.

I don't have the two cars in the same location to compar differences right now either. Thanks.
 
Does anyone have pictures that can show what exactly needs to be done to modify an Automatic shell to recieve a Manual Trans/Clutch pedal assembly? This thread has everything pretty clear, but I'm a little uncertain of how you go about mounting up the clutch pedal.

I don't have the two cars in the same location to compar differences right now either. Thanks.

The firewall is still stamped for the cluch peddle assembly however it is not punched all the way though. You have to get in there and knock the stamping out and grind the hole to accept the clutch master cylinder.
 
Cool. Thanks for the fast response. Also, aside from removing the TCU, can you retain the stock auto wiring harness? Basically, I'm just swapping my 1g 6 bolt/mt trans into an auto 92.5 (stock 6-bolt), so it should still all work, with the removal of the TCU, right?

-edit-

my manual Eprom ECU is going too.
 
Cool. Thanks for the fast response. Also, aside from removing the TCU, can you retain the stock auto wiring harness? Basically, I'm just swapping my 1g 6 bolt/mt trans into an auto 92.5 (stock 6-bolt), so it should still all work, with the removal of the TCU, right?

-edit-

my manual Eprom ECU is going too.


I know nothing about 1g cars so I cannot say forsure. As far as I know you can remove the TCU and leave the harness in the car with no troubles.

On a 2G car the manual and auto ECU are the same.
 
Okay, so I finished pulling apart my 1g dead shell for all the necessary parts. Not too difficult to pull the pedals, just a PITA working around all the wires/heat ducting.

This is mainly for anyone who has done a 1g swap, but do you know if the manual ECU will run in the auto wiring harness with the TCU removed?

Just curious and want to find out for sure before I start ripping this other auto Talon apart.

Also, does anyone know what all the little 'boxes' are behind the center console? Not the ECU, but smaller, black and silver boxes that attach into the wiring harness. I couldn't find any idea as to what they might be for... I'll post pictuers if needed. Just curious what they are and if they're worth anything and/or might need to be swapped as well.
 
Okay, so I finished pulling apart my 1g dead shell for all the necessary parts. Not too difficult to pull the pedals, just a PITA working around all the wires/heat ducting.

This is mainly for anyone who has done a 1g swap, but do you know if the manual ECU will run in the auto wiring harness with the TCU removed?

Just curious and want to find out for sure before I start ripping this other auto Talon apart.

Also, does anyone know what all the little 'boxes' are behind the center console? Not the ECU, but smaller, black and silver boxes that attach into the wiring harness. I couldn't find any idea as to what they might be for... I'll post pictuers if needed. Just curious what they are and if they're worth anything and/or might need to be swapped as well.


Pretty sure on the 2G cars those boxes are the SRS but its been a while for me.
 
I'm all done with just about everything. Got everything swapped in, placed in it's proper place and just have to finish miscellaneous hooking up of the gauges and radiator stuff.

For some reason, though, when testing the power in the car nothing comes on. The headlights and blinkers will and dash lights will work. But when I try to turn on the accessory power and power up the radio or even crank the car it just doesn't respond what so ever. It doesn't even seem like it's getting power to the ECU because the CEL isn't coming on with the key all the way on and the vehicle not started.

Anyone got any ideas or know what might be wrong? I checked the VFAQ and it says you have to splice two wires together on a particular harness. What clip is that, does anyone know? Any information or added input would be appreciated.

BTW, mods are in profile and this is a AWD 92 Talon. The swap on VFAQ was for a FWD, so I don't know if that makes a difference.
 
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