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Stainless steel turbo coolant lines?

TuskeeTuner

Proven Member
74
24
Dec 16, 2020
Everett, Washington
Anybody have stainless steel flexible turbo coolant lines? I don't want to use the factory hard lines anymore. My turbo will not be placed perfectly like stock since my build will eventually use a Morrison Fabrications DSM manifold.

Thanks in advance.
 

agentorange313

Supporting VIP
2,020
100
Dec 21, 2008
Westfield, New_Jersey
This is the hose that used for my coolant feed/return to the waterpipe. You will need a metric to AN fitting for the swivel end, but the banjo end will be the right side for a MHI CHRA turbo feed/return line.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312472537966
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Steel braided Hose(14mm Banjo & Straight Ends),-6 AN,for coolant or oil use,18
 
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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,880
5,760
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I have these on my FP HD3285. I suppose you could use any length of hose.
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Christo

20+ Year Contributor
59
72
Oct 2, 2002
Fairhope, Alabama
I used 6 AN banjos on the turbo and the correct fitting on the thermostat and waterpipe to AN ( can't recall what thread they were right now). Then made AN lines up. Not the best pictures but you get the idea.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,880
5,760
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I doubt I even USE my water lines. They will probably be plugged to keep debris out.
 

TuskeeTuner

Proven Member
74
24
Dec 16, 2020
Everett, Washington
The OEM lines are very bendable, I hate the flexible lines because ultimately the heat gets to them and burns up the rubber inside.
Do you believe this is true of stainless turbo oil feed lines? I'd be concerned about causing an undetected crack due to bending the lines.
 

ist dwa

10+ Year Contributor
622
377
Nov 5, 2009
Centerville, Ohio
Only the sheathing is SS, it's just rubber underneath, the SS is for very high pressure so the rubber doesn't explode, they do nothing for heat.

The OEM lines are steel, steel is very malleable, but like all metal you can over do it and crease it, etc. I have never had a problem. I basically put them in a vice and try to bend on the tube itself (not right at the banjo fitting) with a large phillips #3 screwdriver in the opening. If you bend them at the banjo part that is the weak point where they are brazed together. Also, make sure to take care of the banjo surface in the jaws of the vice, if you gouge them all up they won't seal.

Just try it, if your not happy do the SS line. Both water lines in the pic have tweaked to what ever I needed, you can also look at 2g lines as they are a little different and give different angles.
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95_gsx_2g

Supporting VIP
169
41
Apr 26, 2010
washington, Pennsylvania
Anybody have stainless steel flexible turbo coolant lines? I don't want to use the factory hard lines anymore. My turbo will not be placed perfectly like stock since my build will eventually use a Morrison Fabrications DSM manifold.

Thanks in advance.

You will be happy with the ones posted above just make sure to get the correct threads and fittings. They also sell them non banjo style too like I run on Ebay. Ive had mine for many years and turbos with no leaks. In case you want to keep the lines a bit more away from the center housing assembly. I run my braided feed line off the head with a purple filter restrictor on mine. It runs down around the turbo ic piping and back up around as stated by the man Robert at Forced Performance. Just don't run any extreme bends for the length of the line and you won't have a problem. Be careful doing that with plain nylon though as it will kink alot easier.
 
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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,880
5,760
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Only the sheathing is SS, it's just rubber underneath, the SS is for very high pressure so the rubber doesn't explode, they do nothing for heat.

The OEM lines are steel, steel is very malleable, but like all metal you can over do it and crease it, etc. I have never had a problem. I basically put them in a vice and try to bend on the tube itself (not right at the banjo fitting) with a large phillips #3 screwdriver in the opening. If you bend them at the banjo part that is the weak point where they are brazed together. Also, make sure to take care of the banjo surface in the jaws of the vice, if you gouge them all up they won't seal.

Just try it, if your not happy do the SS line. Both water lines in the pic have tweaked to what ever I needed, you can also look at 2g lines as they are a little different and give different angles.
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Pretty!!!!! :thumb:
 

JusMX141

Moderator
15,134
1,219
Dec 13, 2005
Greensburg, Pennsylvania
A section of silicone hose with clamps that will not cut the hose is a far better option. Otherwise you're turning about two possible leak spots into eight on each line...and still need a small piece rubber hose to connect them to the thermostat housing and block.
 

Stapl3

15+ Year Contributor
1,599
167
Oct 27, 2004
MI, Michigan
Keep in mind those braided lines can't touch anything else either. With the vibration they will act like a saw blade against anything not metal. I kinda hate them honestly.
 
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