SS Brake line install on 2G AWD
Tools and parts needed:
10 mm line wrench
vice grips or pliers, preferably needle nose
basic sockets and wrenches
jack with jack stands
1 coffee can or similar size bucket for bleeding lines
a few feet of vacuum hose
SS lines
Brake fluid, make sure you have enough!
(about a small can per pair of lines.)
I used the Goodridge SS brake line kit and it came with all the necessary hardware,
including 6 new clips, 2 new banjo bolts, and crush washers. Aside from the crush
washers, the other parts probably aren't necessary.
Rear Disc brakes:
begin by loosening your lug nuts and then jacking up the car and supporting with
jack stands. Remove the rear wheel. When I did this mod, I also changed my calipers,
rotors and pads, so I removed the caliper, although that may not be necessary. The
next step is to remove the old rubber hose from the hard line which is behind the
strut. The best way to do this is with a 10 mm line wrench and a 19 mm wrench on the
lower nut. I had trouble getting this to work and felt like i was going to break the
fitting so I used a pair of vice grips on the hard line fitting. If you do this be
careful not to bend or break the line. Also, try using some PB blaster or liquid
wrench to help loosen the fitting. Once you get them apart, remove the clip that
holds the rubber line in. the best way to do this is with needle nose vice grips.
Now, brake fluid will drip from the line, but if you are going to replace with a new
SS line right away, no worries. If you decide to do something like paint you calipers
while they are off, you may want to plug the hard line with something so you don't
lose to much fluid, although i never plugged it and i had no problems.
You can now remove the line from the caliper by using a 13 mm wrench, if i remember
correctly, and just spin the line right off. the new line should be installed onto
the caliper and tightened. Using the new clip provided, put the new stainless line
into place and connect the hard line. All that is left is to bleed the lines (see
below) and put your tire back on.
Front Disc Brakes:
Pretty much the same as the rears, except that the lines have an extra clip to remove
and the lines are attached to the calipers with banjo bolts. ALWAYS use new crush
washers when reinstalling the banjo bolts. another thing i noticed when putting the
lines in is that the plastic piece that slides over the line and clips to the car was
too close to the caliper and made the line really tight. if you pull on it, this
piece will slide up and down the line, so place it in a way that gives you play on
both sides.
Bleeding the lines:
Using a friend to push the brake pedal makes this easy, although there are some self
bleeding kits out there. have your friend sit in the car. attach the vaccuum hose to
the bleed valve on the caliper. Fill the brake fluid resivoir (you should also do this
between each wheel so that the fluid level never gets to low) and put about an inch
of brake fluid in the coffee can or bucket. stick the end of the vaccuum hose in the
bottom of the bucket. have your friend turn on the car and slowly pump the brake, it
will probably go to the floor. while they do that, loosen the bleed valve with your
8 mm wrench. as the brake is pumped bubbles will form in the bucket. when the bubbles
stop close the valve and do the next brake. it helps to use clear vaccuum hose, you
can tell when the air is out of the line cause you can see fluid in the line. When
you finish, the brakes should feel like new! if they still feel soft there is still
air in the line. this was the first time i did it and it wasn't hard.
My brakes now feel AWESOME! i highly recommend this mod to everyone, i will do this
on every car i get, i love the way it feels! it's been 2 months now, no problems at
all and lines still look clean!
I will add pics later today. I take no responsibility for what may happen
to your car by performing this mod. Perform this work at your own risk!
Tools and parts needed:
10 mm line wrench
vice grips or pliers, preferably needle nose
basic sockets and wrenches
jack with jack stands
1 coffee can or similar size bucket for bleeding lines
a few feet of vacuum hose
SS lines
Brake fluid, make sure you have enough!
(about a small can per pair of lines.)
I used the Goodridge SS brake line kit and it came with all the necessary hardware,
including 6 new clips, 2 new banjo bolts, and crush washers. Aside from the crush
washers, the other parts probably aren't necessary.
Rear Disc brakes:
begin by loosening your lug nuts and then jacking up the car and supporting with
jack stands. Remove the rear wheel. When I did this mod, I also changed my calipers,
rotors and pads, so I removed the caliper, although that may not be necessary. The
next step is to remove the old rubber hose from the hard line which is behind the
strut. The best way to do this is with a 10 mm line wrench and a 19 mm wrench on the
lower nut. I had trouble getting this to work and felt like i was going to break the
fitting so I used a pair of vice grips on the hard line fitting. If you do this be
careful not to bend or break the line. Also, try using some PB blaster or liquid
wrench to help loosen the fitting. Once you get them apart, remove the clip that
holds the rubber line in. the best way to do this is with needle nose vice grips.
Now, brake fluid will drip from the line, but if you are going to replace with a new
SS line right away, no worries. If you decide to do something like paint you calipers
while they are off, you may want to plug the hard line with something so you don't
lose to much fluid, although i never plugged it and i had no problems.
You can now remove the line from the caliper by using a 13 mm wrench, if i remember
correctly, and just spin the line right off. the new line should be installed onto
the caliper and tightened. Using the new clip provided, put the new stainless line
into place and connect the hard line. All that is left is to bleed the lines (see
below) and put your tire back on.
Front Disc Brakes:
Pretty much the same as the rears, except that the lines have an extra clip to remove
and the lines are attached to the calipers with banjo bolts. ALWAYS use new crush
washers when reinstalling the banjo bolts. another thing i noticed when putting the
lines in is that the plastic piece that slides over the line and clips to the car was
too close to the caliper and made the line really tight. if you pull on it, this
piece will slide up and down the line, so place it in a way that gives you play on
both sides.
Bleeding the lines:
Using a friend to push the brake pedal makes this easy, although there are some self
bleeding kits out there. have your friend sit in the car. attach the vaccuum hose to
the bleed valve on the caliper. Fill the brake fluid resivoir (you should also do this
between each wheel so that the fluid level never gets to low) and put about an inch
of brake fluid in the coffee can or bucket. stick the end of the vaccuum hose in the
bottom of the bucket. have your friend turn on the car and slowly pump the brake, it
will probably go to the floor. while they do that, loosen the bleed valve with your
8 mm wrench. as the brake is pumped bubbles will form in the bucket. when the bubbles
stop close the valve and do the next brake. it helps to use clear vaccuum hose, you
can tell when the air is out of the line cause you can see fluid in the line. When
you finish, the brakes should feel like new! if they still feel soft there is still
air in the line. this was the first time i did it and it wasn't hard.
My brakes now feel AWESOME! i highly recommend this mod to everyone, i will do this
on every car i get, i love the way it feels! it's been 2 months now, no problems at
all and lines still look clean!
I will add pics later today. I take no responsibility for what may happen
to your car by performing this mod. Perform this work at your own risk!
