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2G Spun rod bearing? need help

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Well unless there are some identify wear marks on the caps that correspond with the rods then no. You will have to do a complete rebuild and have the rods checked and the big ends checked with the caps for proper circumference and bearing clamping force. When ever you pull a engine apart mark everything so it can go back the way it came out. The rods need to be in the cylinder they came from and with the caps the had and also in the direction they came out. As in there is a front and a back to the rods, caps, and pistons.

So now I gotta buy new rods is what you're saying?

And how am I supposed to do a compression test when the bottom of my engine is apart? Aren't you supposed to warm your car up before you do one? It's gonna suck if I rebuild my engine, get it back in the car, do a compression test, and find out one of my cylinders is bad.
 
So now I gotta buy new rods is what you're saying?

And how am I supposed to do a compression test when the bottom of my engine is apart? Aren't you supposed to warm your car up before you do one? It's gonna suck if I rebuild my engine, get it back in the car, do a compression test, and find out one of my cylinders is bad.

Lol...well if you "rebuild" the engine you should be having the block check, and at least replacing rings, if not pistons as well. They will know when they check the cylinders if they need to be bored out or not. Sorry man..welcome to the world of a beat 13 year old boosted car!
 
Lol...well if you "rebuild" the engine you should be having the block check, and at least replacing rings, if not pistons as well. They will know when they check the cylinders if they need to be bored out or not. Sorry man..welcome to the world of a beat 13 year old boosted car!

Hey, gotta learn sometime I guess, might as well learn quick! At least I enjoy doing this, so it's not that bad, I just miss driving it... LOL

And good news, I managed to find which bearings were originally on each cap, which lead me to find out which rods the caps were orignally on by matching the grooves. :D So at least I can save a good chunk of money by not having to buy new rods.

I did notice something odd though, on the second cylinder rod, when I would go to move it to one side to get a look at the other half of the bearing, I noticed this one was very stiff, and didn't move freely, it was much tighter than the other 3. And I also saw this ring looking thing that was in the very center of the main bearing cap assembly, and I found out I'm missing the left side. What is this called?
 
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That metal you found it the pan is probably from a balance shaft bearing, it's very common.

The reason your car is shaking is because the damn thing is only running on 3 cylinders. Then I see your spark plug and if you would have checked compression right from the get go you would have seen zero from that cylinder I guarantee you that. You detonated that cylinder and probably melted and or cracked a ring land on that piston. Maybe burned a valve too.. pieces of the spark plug (and valve maybe) probably beat the shit out of the combustion chamber on the head and might have passed through your turbine and damaged the turbo as well.

It's not the end of the world, shit happens. Pull the head off and have a look at that piston and proceed from there. I did the same thing to my first 1g about 8 years ago except mine was the #4 cylinder, I wish I still had those carnage pictures.. There's plenty of people here that can help you make the right choices for your rebuild. My advice to you is: Do your research and make a plan for the rebuild. Don't just start buying random parts, get the motor out and apart so you'll know the extent of the damage. You might want to invest in some rubbermaid tubs, zip lock baggies and some sharpies to keep your parts organized.
 
That metal you found it the pan is probably from a balance shaft bearing, it's very common.

The reason your car is shaking is because the damn thing is only running on 3 cylinders. Then I see your spark plug and if you would have checked compression right from the get go you would have seen zero from that cylinder I guarantee you that. You detonated that cylinder and probably melted and or cracked a ring land on that piston. Maybe burned a valve too.. pieces of the spark plug (and valve maybe) probably beat the shit out of the combustion chamber on the head and might have passed through your turbine and damaged the turbo as well.

It's not the end of the world, shit happens. Pull the head off and have a look at that piston and proceed from there. I did the same thing to my first 1g about 8 years ago except mine was the #4 cylinder, I wish I still had those carnage pictures.. There's plenty of people here that can help you make the right choices for your rebuild. My advice to you is: Do your research and make a plan for the rebuild. Don't just start buying random parts, get the motor out and apart so you'll know the extent of the damage. You might want to invest in some rubbermaid tubs, zip lock baggies and some sharpies to keep your parts organized.

Thank you, that helped out a lot. When I do get my motor out and I'll be sure to check everything out, and I'm sure I'll be posting pictures needing help, seeing as I just got my car about 5-6 months ago, and when I bought it... well, I didn't even know where the turbo was. I'm hoping for the best.
 
Thank you, that helped out a lot. When I do get my motor out and I'll be sure to check everything out, and I'm sure I'll be posting pictures needing help, seeing as I just got my car about 5-6 months ago, and when I bought it... well, I didn't even know where the turbo was. I'm hoping for the best.

Not a problem, glad I could help, hopefully you can get it up and running quickly. Depending on the damage and how much time you have, it might actually work out better/faster for you to buy a decent used engine. Or maybe even swap in a 6 bolt ;)
 
Not a problem, glad I could help, hopefully you can get it up and running quickly. Depending on the damage and how much time you have, it might actually work out better/faster for you to buy a decent used engine. Or maybe even swap in a 6 bolt ;)

I do plan on doing a 6 bolt swap, but I'm tight on money now and if I don't have to spend a whole lot on this engine then I'll just keep this and save up for the 6 bolt in the future when I know a little more.
 
I do plan on doing a 6 bolt swap, but I'm tight on money now and if I don't have to spend a whole lot on this engine then I'll just keep this and save up for the 6 bolt in the future when I know a little more.

FYI, your not gonna save money by cheaping out now. If you cant afford to fix it right, than dont fix it at all. Half assing and cutting corners on engine builds is asking for problems.
 
Dam Bro! I know how you feel.. I spun #2 bearing. My friend said he could fix it ,turns out he couldn't.. That's after I paid him $1100. Then I took it to a shop and spent another $1400. My engine just blew again today hours after I pick it up from the shop.

So my advice would be find a kick ass! Shop that specialize in Dsm's.. And let them go to town on your car.. You can learn from my mistakes... So far I spent $2500+ on trying to get my car fixed... And been without it since October.. I hate myself.. LOL!
 
Dam Bro! I know how you feel.. I spun #2 bearing. My friend said he could fix it ,turns out he couldn't.. That's after I paid him $1100. Then I took it to a shop and spent another $1400. My engine just blew again today hours after I pick it up from the shop.

So my advice would be find a kick ass! Shop that specialize in Dsm's.. And let them go to town on your car.. You can learn from my mistakes... So far I spent $2500+ on trying to get my car fixed... And been without it since October.. I hate myself.. LOL!

It's to easy, pull the oil pan off, take the caps off the rods, check to see if the crank is still good, if you can't tell my looking at it use a guage or plasti guage, if anything is out of spec then you know to pull that rod or your crank, or both. You might have to replace your crank. MIGHT. or just get it polished. You don't know untill you measure things first.

You should have never spent that much in the first place. Knowledge is power. Sometimes it saves you money too.
 
Talipse96, Well said buddy... My dumb ass had to much trust in My Friend & Shop to get it done right.. And they both F'd me... I don't want the samething to happen to him...
 
FYI, your not gonna save money by cheaping out now. If you cant afford to fix it right, than dont fix it at all. Half assing and cutting corners on engine builds is asking for problems.

I'm not going to cheap out, I said if there isn't much damage, and this is the cheaper route, then I'm not going to bother buying a new engine yet. I will fixed what needs fixed. If there's a whole lot that needs replaced then buying an engine will be what I will do, it just depends.
 
Well I found out what my problem was. Turns out I had no spun bearings, instead my #1 piston looks pertty messed up, that's where the metal in the oil pan came from. The cylinder wall is scored, I can catch my fingernail in the grooves.

With all this said, what would be my best option to go about this?
 

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Pull the engine and have it bored and line honed. Recondition the crank and rods while your at it. Also if this is going to be a daily driver, I suggest using OEM pistons and NPR rings. A stock block/internals can hold 400HP and has been proven to go as high as 659HP (condition dependent). Make sure the head is decked and cleaned up very well before installing new valves, guides, springs, and EXC. Also while your at it you can install a Gates Timing belt with mechanical tensioner, water pump, oil pump, and pulleys. eliminate the balance shafts as well with a kit from DSM graveyard or respected vendors. That would make this engine purr like a kitten and be ready for more abuse LOL


DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!
 
Well I'm actually buying a block from someone who lives near me that's in good condition, it's coming with pistions/rods and crankshaft also. So I don't have to worry about machining the block, my main concern now is what I will need to do to the head, as opposed to what I could do if I had the extra money.
 
Well I'm actually buying a block from someone who lives near me that's in good condition, it's coming with pistions/rods and crankshaft also. So I don't have to worry about machining the block, my main concern now is what I will need to do to the head, as opposed to what I could do if I had the extra money.

Clean it up, grab some stock valves and have the head redone, or you can grab a rebuilt one from one of the vendors here...

Did you ever find the problem that caused the piston to melt?
 
Clean it up, grab some stock valves and have the head redone, or you can grab a rebuilt one from one of the vendors here...

Did you ever find the problem that caused the piston to melt?

Not sure, that was the same cylinder where my spark plug was destroyed too.
 
Clean it up, grab some stock valves and have the head redone, or you can grab a rebuilt one from one of the vendors here...

Did you ever find the problem that caused the piston to melt?

What i would guess is that it spiked boost and leaned out since he was doing a WOT.

Sounds like a better plan getting a used but good block to save on machining. Use a wire brush adapter on a drill and clean up the head as best as possible. Do not do it hard enough to grind but enough to smooth out around the valves. I did this on my ford ranger head when a spark plug end broke off in the cylinder and beat the head up alittle bit. Remember my last part of my post. and get good timing set from gates and redo the water pump and oil pump while your at it. make sure to use OEM pumps. Ebay pumps have been known to cause major damage due to failures.
 
Sounds good, I'll get new oem valves and clean up the head as good as possible. I already have a BSE cause I know balance shafts don't do anything important. I'll also get a new timing belt.

I'm starting to wonder if me removing the BCS restrictor is what caused it to go as lean as it did.
 
Sounds good, I'll get new oem valves and clean up the head as good as possible. I already have a BSE cause I know balance shafts don't do anything important. I'll also get a new timing belt.

I'm starting to wonder if me removing the BCS restrictor is what caused it to go as lean as it did.

No it would not
 
what would cause it? I mean it was all stock so I don't know what it could have been
 
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