The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Send Us Your Photos for the 2024 Calendar - here's how!
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support STM Tuned

Street Build SPOOLIGAN- Poison Ivy

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fourgsixthree33

10+ Year Contributor
1,244
45
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Here is the diagram I drew up for my battery relocation. The only thing I may not do is add the extra ground running from the battery all the way to the bell housing. Battery will be mounted in the right rear corner of the hatch.

esd battery relocation diagram.png
 
Last edited:

xlr8ed

15+ Year Contributor
64
8
Aug 18, 2007
Fowler, Indiana
Green is different but I like different. Keep up the good work.
 

oneslowwdsm

10+ Year Contributor
858
123
Mar 30, 2009
Spring, Texas
Hey I have the same mounts in my car and yes I had the same PITA experience getting them to line up. They perform very well and not too terrible with the vibrations. I did raise my idle a bit though just to eliminate some from the interior.

One thing I would recommend is double checking all your nuts and bolts on the car after a few hundred miles of driving. Exhaust manifold, valve cover, oil pan etc. I would put a crush washer under every nut and bolt otherwise they will come loose due to the vibrations.
 

fourgsixthree33

10+ Year Contributor
1,244
45
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Green is different but I like different. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the positive feedback! It turned out better than I was expecting, that's for sure.

Hey I have the same mounts in my car and yes I had the same PITA experience getting them to line up. They perform very well and not too terrible with the vibrations. I did raise my idle a bit though just to eliminate some from the interior.

One thing I would recommend is double checking all your nuts and bolts on the car after a few hundred miles of driving. Exhaust manifold, valve cover, oil pan etc. I would put a crush washer under every nut and bolt otherwise they will come loose due to the vibrations.

Thanks for the input and I will be sure to take your advice.
 

fourgsixthree33

10+ Year Contributor
1,244
45
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Decided to go out and mess with it today in the 26* weather. Can't stand the cold but also can't stand going days without touching the car. Didn't do a whole lot but I finished my battery relocation with the exception of connecting the starter wire and bell housing ground wire to the firewall. I am a bit confused with what you are supposed to do with the starter harness wiring and how to integrate that into the battery relocation and fuse box relocation. I'll have to do a bit of searching.

I will probably eventually move the kill switch from the reverse light hole too. It looks awesome, it really does but when I need to service the kill switch down the road, I will have to remove the wiring from the distribution block and pull the wiring towards the rear of the car to get some slack in order to remove the rear bumper. In order to access the kill switch, I have to also remove the back bumper. Which is a PITA in itself. I will probably mount it in the center tail light section. Then I won't have to do much in order to access the kill switch or wiring.

Before I finish soldering up the wires in the cabin on the wiring harness, I want to power the car to find out that I am getting power at all. My battery is dead so I have to get ahold of a battery charger or something to charge it first.
 

fourgsixthree33

10+ Year Contributor
1,244
45
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Haven't updated this in awhile. The car has been running for a few weeks. The Evo ECU is working nicely, the car sounds awesome, antilag/launch control sounds awesome, the car is coming together. Yesterday, I put my driveshaft, transfer case, and front axles in. Finished putting my slave cylinder on in the dark and called it a night. In the morning, I am going to go out and bleed the clutch. The car should move on it's own.

Before I can drive it, I still have a lot of things to do. I have to mount my remote oil pressure sending unit somewhere, run my wideband, boost gauge, put the dual piston brakes on, etc. With any luck, I will be able to at least drive it down the street by the end of the day. I will post pics later (don't feel like resizing them all for the forum right now) but here is a video of the antilag.

 

fourgsixthree33

10+ Year Contributor
1,244
45
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Another late update. The car is running AND driving now. A few days ago, we had some really nice weather. In the 60's even. I took advantage and went out and installed the driveshaft with the Torque Solutions solid bushing kit, then put the transfer case on, and then slid the axles in. The next day, I bled the clutch and was still having issues. I pulled the slave cylinder off and seen it was seized. So, I took a trip up to my Dad's where my old 2G rests and grabbed the slave cylinder off of that transmission.

20160221_140122.jpg


I returned home and swapped Mary's slave cylinder onto Poison Ivy. The clutch felt great, but still wouldn't go into gear with the car running. So, I adjusted the master cylinder rod and all was good. I removed all the bolts, tools, etc off of the car and drove around in the driveway. By the end of the night, I was able to drive down the road a few times. The car ran very very smooth. I am very surprised of how smooth it runs actually.

I believe that the car runs so smooth because of the Evo ECU. All the reading I have done over the last few months about the Evo ECU being used in DSM's, I have seen multiple people state that there is a huge difference in smoothness after switching from their EPROM ECU to an Evo ECU. I havent even gone through and fine tuned everything and it runs awesome.

I also finally got around to installing my Megan Racing lowering springs. Despite everything people say about Megan Racing, I actually have always liked these springs.

Couple of pics from the last few days.
Installing my springs.
20160222_114054.jpg

Oil change.
20160220_133452.jpg

20160223_123716.jpg

New #FuqtheEPA decal
20160222_142708.jpg

20160222_194016.jpg


20160222_194028.jpg


Today, I installed my boost gauge and AutoMeter short sweep oil pressure gauge. I've been having issues getting my oil pressure gauge to work. I bought one used with the sending unit and I am also using the remote sending unit kit. The gauge hasn't worked so I just bought a brand new oil pressure gauge, same exact model, with new sending unit, and it still won't work. I am thinking I need to somehow ground the sending unit since it is mounted remotely and not attached directly to the OFH.

I am going to switch out my aftermarket return line that has been leaking slightly and I will also be mounting my front exit downpipe from my 2G onto this 1G. I removed the full turboback Thermal R&D exhaust from the 1G yesterday as well. After hearing the engine roar down the street, I won't be using an exhaust on this thing either.

I still have weeks worth of work to do on this car yet. The tail lights aren't even bolt in, they just just kind of in there. I think the only reason they haven't fallen out during a pull is because the plugs/wires are holding them in. Tons and tons of things I need to go through yet before this thing is ready to be driven around aside from a few trips up and down the road.

I'm awaiting a new HVAC panel to come in the mail from Miller Import Parts. My toggles for my fans, gauge lights, and push button start will be mounted in the CD Player portion of the panel. Already have a sheet metal panel ready to go when it get's here. I will also be running my Halman in-cabin MBC through the A/C button, so I can't put that in until the panel gets here either. The interior is still all torn apart, wires everywhere, tools, parts, empty parts boxes, it's a mess.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top