The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

2G speedo issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gst fat

15+ Year Contributor
284
1
Jun 22, 2007
Miami, Florida
ok so i have had my car for 5 years now and since ive had it its never read my MPH,i never really cared since the the rest of the cluster has always worked.

this is what ive done to try and fix the problem ive changed the cluster,ive changed the speed sensor as well. again everything on the cluster works excepts the MPH, i honestly dont get it the car runs flawlessly and has no electrical issues, is there something else i can do?

btw its a second gen 5 speed gst
 
This one should be fairly easy to figure out, if you have a standard test light......

First step, connect the lead on the test light to power. Now disconnect the VSS.
Test the black wire (at the connector terminal). Does the test light illuminate?

If no, run a wire from that terminal to chassis ground and take it for a ride.

If it does light.
Connect the test light lead to ground and test the black/white trace wire. If the test light doesn't light, you have an open circuit in the power supply to the VSS.

If everything else on the dash (tach. temp. gauge, and fuel gauge) works, then the ignition switch circuit is ok. You have an open between the ignition switch and the VSS. If the test light does light.

The last test is the circuit between the VSS and the cluster. The easiest way to test it is with a DVOM (Digital Volt and Ohm Meter). If you have one, set it to ohms and connect one lead to the yellow wire at the VSS. Pull the cluster out and connect the other lead to pin #36 (yellow/white trace wire)

If the DVOM shows around 0.5 or less, you must have skipped one of the other steps or the tach/VSS is no good. If you think it's the tach/VSS, let me know and I can give you a simple test to find out!

If it shows 0.5 ohms or higher, you have high resistance in the wiring from the VSS to the cluster. The easiest fix would be to run a new wire between them. If it shows OL, the wire is broken somewhere in between. I would run a new wire directly to the cluster, soldering and heat shrinking both connections.

That is the entire system which is fairly straight forward. Any other questions, post back or pm me for more info.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This one should be fairly easy to figure out, if you have a standard test light......

First step, connect the lead on the test light to power. Now disconnect the VSS.
Test the black wire (at the connector terminal). Does the test light illuminate?
If no, run a wire from that terminal to chassis ground and take it for a ride.
If it does light....
Connect the test light lead to ground and test the black/white trace wire. If the test light doesn't light, you have an open circuit in the power supply to the VSS.
If everything else on the dash (tach. temp. gauge, and fuel gauge) works, then the ignition switch circuit is ok... you have an open between the igniton switch and the VSS. If the test light does light....
The last test is the circuit between the VSS and the cluster. The easiest way to test it is with a DVOM (Digital Volt and Ohm Meter). If you have one, set it to ohms and connect one lead to the yellow wire at the VSS. Pull the cluster out and connect the other lead to pin #36 (yellow/white trace wire) If the DVOM shows around .5 or less... you must have skipped one of the other steps or the tach/VSS is no good. If you think it's the tach/VSS, let me know and I can give you a simple test to find out !
If it shows .5 ohms or higher, you have high resistance in the wiring from the VSS to the cluster. The easiest fix would be to run a new wire between them. If it shows OL... the wire is broken somewhere in between. I would run a new wire directly to the cluster, soldering and heat shrinking both connections.
That is the entire system which is fairly straight forward. Any other questions, post back or pm me for more info.

LOL thanks sounds easy but lets see i hate doing electrical ill keep you posted hopefully i have time tomorrow
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top