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Special Paints for that "NEW" look.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,531
8,199
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I touched on this in a post lately, so I figured why not make a thread that shows special paints for a special appearance.
If anyone else has some special purpose paints, please contribute to this thread.
For a Fresh, New Aluminum Look, no matter what the part, use
Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403

It is durable and doesn't scratch off easily. Heat helps it bake.
You will get these results:
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For a new, Black Plastic look, use
Krylon Semi-Flat Black #9203
for results like this. It will freshen up old plastic or, like my next example, makes metal look like plastic. It is also very durable and is easily touched up if ever needed, just like the Aluminum paint.
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These are just some of the "little" things that help an old part LOOK NEW!
If anyone else has any other "special" paints for "special" purposes, feel free to add them to this and describe what results you get!!! :thumb:
Thanks for reading!
Marty
 
Curt, I have found that brush on Caliper Paint holds its finish and is resistant to heat. Idk if they make it in silver but on my black and red motor, that is what I used on the water pipe. I will add that to this thread. Thanks for mentioning it. (And they DO make it in SILVER & BLACK also, see below).

For heat resistance up to 500* and color retention over time, I use DupliColor Caliper Paint.
Duplicolor RED Caliper Kit #BCP400 Paint
(for RED in this instance).
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DupliColor also makes this paint in Silver
BCP403 SILVER

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And Black
BCP405 BLACK
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These BRUSH on paints are Super Durable. I use them on my calipers and it flows out very smooth and glossy! You see I used it on the water pipe in this case along with my calipers. One can goes A LONG WAYS!
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Silver and Black will both turn out like this too.
Thank you @curt-s for bringing it up!
 
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My customer asked for a "Purple" engine and I said "uh, NO". But waiting on Comp to get me his camshaft for his roller SBC, I gave in, KINDA.
This is DupliColor MC204 Purple Anodized Colorcoat on top of a Black Base Gloss on his motor and a picture of it over Chrome also. It is Heat Resistant, but not High Heat!
It is hard to tell on the motor unless you are in the sun :cool:
The Chome coat was just a test to see how it would turn out on valve covers, timing covers, etc.

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I used some of this stuff on my Fidanza cam gears and it amazed me. I had to recoat after 2.5 years, not because the coating had any issue but because I scratched them while doing head swaps and timing jobs. I'd recommend it to anyone. Most people wouldn't think to use paint advertised for coating barbecue grills on their cam gears but I won't hesitate to do it anytime they need it.

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Those look nice! I like the color choice. :thumb:
 
I have not had a chance to use it myself yet, but I have heard great things about the SEM trim black. It’s suppose to be good for refinishing things like door moldings to get that oem(ish) texture.

EDIT: I borrowed these screen shots from the Amazon reviews that speak for themselves.

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If you see a picture or part number of it, post it up or add it to your comment. Sounds like it has a special place for its use!
It looks a little more glossy, almost the exact stuff for interior use (or exterior).
Mine just makes stuff look like plain ole plastic (but maybe that secret stuff on my cars is painted like plastic for a reason???) :cool:
I've worked on low boost cars that all have PLASTIC couplers and stupid factory stuff (Dodge Darts) :hmm::hmm::ohdamn:
;):thumb:

That panel looks GREAT Deric!
 
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I'll toss in another one for fun.

A few valve covers ago and a few years ago, I painted a valve cover with this Majic oil based paint. It turned out really good, a little too good because it looked better than everything else LOL . Damn, a lot has changed since that picture.

I only used this product because I already had some left over from painting my lawn tractor. There was a day when I would spray anything with anything if I thought it would look good and last a while. I learned so much in those days.

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Not to nitpick. But if you don't fully disassemble something, clean it proper, coat it fully, it wont look "NEW". Overspray on bolts, fittings, flanges, rubber, etc looks just like it does - someone lazy with a spray paint can. Half taped off, half who cares, half oh I'll just control it with the nozzle. The assembled shortblock that someone spray painted isn't fooling anyone. We can see the bolts half painted, freeze plugs painted, etc etc. And I see it ALL the time. Maybe I'm just a masochist. But when it comes to this, either do it right or don't bother as it will look like mickeymouse hackery.
 
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I used some of this stuff on my Fidanza cam gears and it amazed me. I had to recoat after 2.5 years, not because the coating had any issue but because I scratched them while doing head swaps and timing jobs. I'd recommend it to anyone. Most people wouldn't think to use paint advertised for coating barbecue grills on their cam gears but I won't hesitate to do it anytime they need it.

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Now this we do have up here, in flat aluminum and gloss silver.
Thanks for the heads up. Will give it a shot at "only" $20 a can.
 
Not to nitpick. But if you don't fully disassemble something, clean it proper, coat it fully, it wont look "NEW". Overspray on bolts, fittings, flanges, rubber, etc looks just like it does - someone lazy with a spray paint can. Half taped off, half who cares, half oh I'll just control it with the nozzle. The assembled shortblock that someone spray painted isn't fooling anyone. We can see the bolts half painted, freeze plugs painted, etc etc. And I see it ALL the time. Maybe I'm just a masochist. But when it comes to this, either do it right or don't bother as it will look like mickeymouse hackery.
For the most part I agree with what you're saying. But there is nothing wrong with painting over the freeze plugs. It's actually my preference to do so. I have no reason to try and show off some basic zinc or brass finish that may not even match any other aspect of the bay. Aside from that, painting with the freeze plugs in place keeps that overspray out of your water journals without any further masking. Sure, you could just block the openings with cotton balls etc, but why not just scuff the plugs and spray them too.
Besides that though I mostly concurr. Actually the previous owner of my 2g sprayed the intake manifold red (why?), looked like they did so with it still on the car because there was overspray on my injectors and throttle cable that drove me absolutely crazy until I cleaned it all off.

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Edit: added the previous engine which I also sprayed over freeze plugs

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That part is where I use Semi-Flat or what @Dericsh showed us. His looks REALLY nice I think.
I think all of our cars have that issue @Tina94 in the same place unless they were in a garage all of their life.
 
That part is where I use Semi-Flat or what @Dericsh showed us. His looks REALLY nice I think.
I think all of our cars have that issue @Tina94 in the same place unless they were in a garage all of their life.
I meant to show the peeling clear on the window frame, not the chrome on the belt molding
 
Like you said, gloss black to match the roof.
Ok thanks. I wonder why that peels so much more than the rest of the paint. Seems common across all makes/models.
 
Ok thanks. I wonder why that peels so much more than the rest of the paint. Seems common across all makes/models.
No idea if this is true or not, but I read somewhere that in the 90s they were experimenting with different formulations for paint that didn’t work out so great while all of our beloved Rad era vehicles were being produced.

When I got my ‘93 Eclipse (in 2004) the paint was absolutely trashed so I tend to believe there was some truth to that. Compared to my 2013 Tundra that I drive now that the paint looks fine at about the same age.
 
Domesttic or Import, those years all had crappy paint and companies were trying water based blends also IIRC.
 
+1 for SEM Trim Black. This had been sprayed white with that vinyl interior paint by previous owner, then top-coated in silver and was all fish-eyed. I sandblasted all of it off, then cleaned with soap/water...and sprayed with SEM. Looks like brand new OEM to me!
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Natural aluminum restored through vapor honing (wet beadblasting) and Alodine* treating.

Restored every aluminum part under the hood and 3 years later it hasn't changed except to darken slightly.

*requires suitable precautions to use.

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