The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Spark Plugs for 4G63T? [Merged 12-28-2021]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TsiRacer93

Probationary Member
15
0
Aug 9, 2002
seminole_Fl
yea so my cars got like 100,000 miles on it, what are some good plugs to be using? i was thinkin bosh 4s but someone told me they would be bad for my car..
 
Defiant said:
Plug "heat" has absolutely no effect on cylinder temperatures. The heat range on spark plugs applies only to the ability of the spark plug to conduct heat away from the tip.
Running plugs of too low a heat range will lead to fouling and misfires. Running plugs that are too high a heat range will lead to plug damage.
It takes a fair bit of high tuning and extreme use before BPR6 plugs can't keep up. And it will be the extraordinarily rare motor that will keep 8s happy.
I know you are the boss of this site and I know you have the power to boot anyone at anytime and we all respect that...BUT what does the phrase"CONDUCT HEAT AWAY"mean?Do you mean"DISSIPATE HEAT AWAY"from the tip?what tip do you mean?the side electrode,the center electrode or the porcelain insulator?I know my car performs better with a colder plug than a hotter plug because numbers dont lie.

thank you
Brian Gurr
 
gurmanator said:
I know you are the boss of this site and I know you have the power to boot anyone at anytime and we all respect that...BUT what does the phrase"CONDUCT HEAT AWAY"mean?Do you mean"DISSIPATE HEAT AWAY"from the tip?what tip do you mean?the side electrode,the center electrode or the porcelain insulator?I know my car performs better with a colder plug than a hotter plug because numbers dont lie.

thank you
Brian Gurr

Read and learn. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html
 
gurmanator said:
what was the point of your reply?I just read your link and all that was is a sales pitch to buy their product and it must be a good one because you fell for it hook line and sinker. What does autolite say,Bosch, etc.Dont believe everything you read grasshopper. :thumb:

Settle down Bevis....
"It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat."

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp?nav=31000&country=US
 
gsx951 said:
Settle down Bevis....
"It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat."

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp?nav=31000&country=US
cool...now im getting somewhere but I got lost on the"transferring heat to the cooling system"thing.does this mean the plug takes the heat and puts it in the radiator?I got chewed out by defiant for saying plugs effect cylinder temp and you just said the samething I did.thanx though but I will stick with my winning combo. :thumb:
 
He means that the heat is absorbed by the spark plug and conducted to the block, which is cooled by the cooling system.

Regarding Defiant's statement about the existance of pre-gapped plugs: The second to last time I bought spark plugs was at the Mitsubishi dealership I used to go to. I bought NGK BPR6ES, brand new in the box, didn't gap them, and installed them myself. The last time I installed spark plugs, a few weeks ago, I bought them at the dealership in my new city. Same plugs: BPR6ES, but I had to gap them, since they were at about .042. Taking out my old plugs, the ones I didn't gap, I measured them and surprisingly, they were gapped to .028. I'm not really sure how that happened.
 
gurmanator said:
what was the point of your reply?I just read your link and all that was is a sales pitch to buy their product and it must be a good one because you fell for it hook line and sinker. What does autolite say,Bosch, etc.Dont believe everything you read grasshopper. :thumb:

What the hell are you talking about? WTF I wanted you to read the section called"heat range selection". That has nothing to do with sales pitch. It was more for you to learn about heat ranges.
 
gurmanator said:
I know you are the boss of this site and I know you have the power to boot anyone at anytime
I don't. Sadly, at times.

But, how interesting. NGK says:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp?nav=31000&country=US
A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.

While Champion says:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/sparkplugs.html
Step 3: Heat Range Selection
The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance.

Now, I don't know if NGK is mis-stating what they're meaning to say, or if Champion's tale -which is the way I was taught the story- is the more accurate. I still maintain spark plugs cool only themselves, not the combustion space. Their surface area is insufficient to do the job.
 
knighteclipse1 said:
I'm running BPR7ES Plugs in my car, I have no complaints here. Probably also depends on the amount of mod's you plan on your car.
You should run 6's simply because you'll foul out the 7's and have to replace them more often than you would 6's.

I'm not really understanding where this debate is leading... or actually stemmed from.
Fact of the matter is simply this.
Only use NGK plugs.
Stock to 250ish whp 6es.
250 to 350-400 whp only need 7es.
400+ you'll be looking at 8es depending on your tune.

Numbers may be a little different due to altitude differences, temperature, and tune. But it's a soft guideline for you to follow.
 
I want to send out an apology to defiant,92awddsm,gsx951...I know what I wanted to say but It came out wrong.I want to send out thanks to ddavisaf for saying what I wanted to say.Altitude,barometric pressure and ambient temperature have a great effect on the "tune" of your car.what works at high altitude does not work at low altitude and all of the testing that is performed is usually at low altitude.Again,apology and thanks to all

Brian Gurr
 
gurmanator said:
I want to send out an apology to defiant,92awddsm,gsx951...I know what I wanted to say but It came out wrong.I want to send out thanks to ddavisaf for saying what I wanted to say.Altitude,barometric pressure and ambient temperature have a great effect on the "tune" of your car.what works at high altitude does not work at low altitude and all of the testing that is performed is usually at low altitude.Again,apology and thanks to all

Brian Gurr

Brian, regarding the air pressure thing, google R.A.D. or " relative air density ".
 
Hey guys. I just need some opinions out there. I need to replace my spark plugs and wires. I've already got some Magnecor wires to put in, but I need help with my NGK's. As soon as I get my tax return I'll be doing some major upgrades. Here's the list:
AEM fuel rail w/ FPR
Denso 660's
Walbro 250 pump
S-AFC II
EVO III 16G
FMIC w/ piping
AVC-R
And some minor supporting mods. So that will be in a little while. Right now, however, I need new plugs and wires. Already, I have an Injen intake and 3" 'turbo-back' exhaust. So, should I stick with stock BPR6ES plugs or go ahead and go with the colder 7's or wait on the 7's until my upgrades are in? The thing is, I can find the 7's everywhere online but no BPR6ES plugs. Does 'SATAN' carry BPR6ES or does anybody know any retailers that carry them. I really appreciate you guys pitching in on this.
 
Get 7s since you'll do better with them when you go down your upgrade list. I used 7s with low boost and had no problem with plug self-cleaning or idle. Remember to gap the plugs :D mine were way off. I would gap them to .030-.034 then regap them when you turn the boost up with your E3 16G.
 
So, I can get the 7's now and run ok on stock boost and practically stock GS-T (except exhaust)? I finally found some BPR6ES plugs and can use those until I upgrade later. So now which do you recommend? Thanks.
 
1sickgst said:
So, I can get the 7's now and run ok on stock boost and practically stock GS-T (except exhaust)? I finally found some BPR6ES plugs and can use those until I upgrade later. So now which do you recommend? Thanks.


Go with the 7s. They never changed my drivability. So there's no reason to by plugs twice. Because you really should have the 7s for your future setup.
 
Hey guys I need some input for spark plugs. When I searched most of the threAds were along the lines of "car won't start"

specs: 97 eclipse gsx just bought.
Mods came with car: evo III 16g td05 turbo
injen intake, apex exhaust, larger fmic, and came with previous tune.

I am doing all of the basic maintenance (lube and oil, coolant flush, etc) and the car has 77000 miles so Iam looking to swap the spark plugs and wires.

The car runs makes much more power over stock and runs significantly Boyer than stock (previous owner had radiator replaced and radiator fan blade melted.

So my question:

WHICH spark plugs should I use? Coming from a wrx a lot of guys ran plugs that were a step cooler, and some ran with the four prong ones. Which should I run for my setup? Input appreciated for a new DSM owner. I just want to build it right the first time. Thanks!
 
Ngk bpr6es as far as spark plugs NGK standard plugs are the best to run.
As far as wires go I like the Magnacor or the taylor wires are real nice as well.
Also if the car still has the original timing belt now is the time to do it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top