The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support STM Tuned

Spark Plugs for 4G63T? [Merged 12-28-2021]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TsiRacer93

Probationary Member
15
0
Aug 9, 2002
seminole_Fl
yea so my cars got like 100,000 miles on it, what are some good plugs to be using? i was thinkin bosh 4s but someone told me they would be bad for my car..
 
i was wondering. . what should i gap my spark plugs at . .they are NGK's standard not the V - power .. something to make my car run alittle better and maybe help from fuel cut. . i would appreciate any help i can get . . thanks
 
NGK BPR6ES at .040", just like all the other threads like this say.

Done.

Ok, those are the plugs I got. However, I was told to gap them at 0.440". Should I regap my plugs? to 0.400"? (or did that poster really mean 0.040"?)

EDIT: Err... I meant 0.044" and 0.040" (almost 1/2" gap might be a bit much =/)
 
well my car is mostly stock except for an intake, turbo back exhaust, and a clutch, and i believe the fuel pump was rewired by the guy before me because it seems to run a little rich. so that brings me to my question... what spark plugs should i be running? should i run the factory BPR6ES or some BPR7ES? thanks.
 
JiveMasterT said:
well my car is mostly stock except for an intake, turbo back exhaust, and a clutch, and i believe the fuel pump was rewired by the guy before me because it seems to run a little rich. so that brings me to my question... what spark plugs should i be running? should i run the factory BPR6ES or some BPR7ES? thanks.

BPR6ES. If you're running ruch, colder plugs are going to foul more quickly.
 
RamenPride said:
BPR6ES. If you're running ruch, colder plugs are going to foul more quickly.

thats what i thought... but my idiot friend told me the opposite. thanks for the heads up.
 
Stick with the 6ES plugs. The 7ES plugs are a bit colder and should be installed when you upgrade to a larger turbo to help keep detonation under control. If you use the 7ES plugs, they won't get hot enough to keep carbon deposits from forming on the gap and you'll have misfire problems.
 
Does anybody know a good "how to" link for changing plugs on a 1 or 2 gen? I need to know things like what to torque down my valve cover to because I hear they crack easy. Plus I need to figure out what the color code means on my worn plugs.

...and how often should I really go between plugs? Some do it every 6K--WHY??? :confused:
 
Changing plugs is pretty straightforward...you dont have to take off the valve cover either. Just pull the wires, take the plugs out, put the new ones in and torque them to 14 foot pounds :thumb:

I think the plug is an 8? Maybe 6 Im not sure, check the old ones...DSM's have the best luck with NGK's.
 
I change my plugs once a year and I use NGK BPR7ES gapped to .28
Use a plug socket it is 13/16's and has the rubber insert to hold the plug when you insert it into the plug well. I usually hand tighten them first and then a 1/4 - 1/2 turn to crush the gasket down on the plug ....do not over tighten these. Instructions are on the back of the plug package also.
 
ReallyHighMiles said:
I need to know things like what to torque down my valve cover to because I hear they crack easy.
You don't touch the valve cover when you change plugs. Just the wire cover. Snug them, it's just a trim item.

Hit up eBay for a shop manual.
 
When changing plugs look down inside valve cover where plug goes see if any oil on plugs and wires if so may want to change gasket.
 
I just did this yesturday, it was my first time doing plugs, and I did it in about 15minutes. Pull the wires off one at a time, (so you don't mess up your firing order) use a plug socket to pull it out, check the gap on the plugs (mine from the factory were gapped at .032 and that was fine for me) use antiseize on the new plug threads, and I used some daielectric grease on the part where the plug connects to the wire (dont really have to though). Put the new plug in and make sure its snug and tight. (i didn't use a torque wrench, because my wrench doesn't measure torque so low very well) put the plug wire back in and your done! Repeat 4 times. Its not that hard if you've ever turned a wrench. Just be smart about it, and use common sense. While your at it, checking your old plugs is a good way to check for problems I.E. Running rich, or fouling, or running lean, etc..... any good shop manual will tell you what to look for. :thumb:
 
Whats up guys,
well I think it is time for me to finally replace my spark plugs and I am not sure what to get. I
think I read something about NGK's being really good for dsm's but I don't know what kind to get with my list of mods. I plan on installing a 14b soon and the list of my other mods are in my vehicle profile. What do you guys recomend for plugs and also what gap? I don't plan on running more than 18psi.
:talon:
 
I read in the search that those are the plugs to use, but what would be the difference between the two?
 
6es=stock
7es=one range colder

edit: had the two switched around,.... or maybe im just confusing myself, i think thats right...
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top