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Sonic GS-T

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,520
524
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
This is the Build Thread for Sonic GS-T. Reply below.

The story as I know it:

A local car flipper told me about this car and that he was buying it for a great deal, it just had a couple if issues. I warned him not to buy it, or to only let me work on it. He did not take my advice

From the car fax report the car hasnt moved (been registered) since 2016

The car flippers mechanic did some work to atleast get it running enough to drive to the paint shop

Heres a picture of where the car was found/sat for the past few years

IMG_6664.jpg
 
Last edited:

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,520
524
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
Stupid, every time I get one of these cars its the same thing. Big injectors and a stock ecu. Literally this car has a brand new cylinder head and eveything just like the last 98gst I owned. Im a bit eccentric, but its not worth risking the engines safety for an extra 80hp on a 23 year old car

Car idled like crap but would still spin the tires in first and second. So need to see if miller import parts can get me set up

Screenshot_20220913-221312.png
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,520
524
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
So just a few updates

I removed the ebay paint matched lip, I think it looks fine but the car scrapes on everything. At the bottom of the front bumper I installed an ebay universal $10 front lip, and i use self tapping screws every 6 inches or so at the bottom of the front bumper. It looks great and has held up really well, even with the car slammed and the roads here questionable it looks good

I finally found my factory heat shield for the header, and i put a clear timing cover on. The gates belt looks acceptable but I wanted to make sure there wasnt any oil leaks slinging off the belt

Car runs great and my list of repairs is minor

Fixed vacuum leaks
Fixed parasitic battery drain from passengers side door lock being cocked in the hole causing the power locks to constantly unlock
Fixed several exhaust leaks by replacing ebay turbo manifold
Arp turbo bolts (strongly reccomend these, they basically retapped the 16g flange)
Readjusted Fmic piping, added fog light assemblies
Added for light bezels from ebay 3d printer $48?
Re wired front doors for speakers
Replaced drivers side window regulator and adjusted alignment
Removed interior and carpet for cleaning
Traced and replaced antenna for radio, old one was frayed and had no reception
Installed 3g eclipse washer nozzles on the hood
Installed egr valve and egr solenoid
Fixed interior lights and dimmer switch
Installed mitsubishi bumper emblem
Replaced tuned black box ecu with stock black box ecu
Replaced 750cc injectors with stock injectors
Replaced starter assembly with new starter from ebay
Cleaned lock cylinders with graphite lube
Replaced door handle mechanisms and lube internal hinges (door handle operation is much firmer and smooth)

To do:
Exhaust leaks on the cat back, the cat flange to the exhaust is booger welded and leaking a bit
Oil leak from turbo drain
Verify AC system has held pressure, replace drier and orings if needed

Screenshot_20221118-080008.png
Screenshot_20221118-080043.png
 
Last edited:

Spleen8urLSX

Proven Member
260
162
Dec 26, 2017
Elyria, Ohio
The standard ARP turbo to manifold bolts? I know to not use the stainless ones for obvious reasons (anyone who’s worked with metals can tell you what happens to stainless when you thread it into cast, seeing them snap in person trying to remove them after 2 heat cycles, threads on here, etc) but the standard ones look tempting and I’ve never seen them used.
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,520
524
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
The standard ARP turbo to manifold bolts? I know to not use the stainless ones for obvious reasons (anyone who’s worked with metals can tell you what happens to stainless when you thread it into cast, seeing them snap in person trying to remove them after 2 heat cycles, threads on here, etc) but the standard ones look tempting and I’ve never seen them used.
Hmm interesting, I ordered a set of OEM ones from miller import parts and he claims he sent them but I only ever got 3 so i had to order a set and I found the arp bolts local and new

So I see they are prone to breaking when being removed, I guess ill have to plan ahead if they ever need to be take out again. The standard ones show discontinued from arp
 

Spleen8urLSX

Proven Member
260
162
Dec 26, 2017
Elyria, Ohio
Hmm interesting, I ordered a set of OEM ones from miller import parts and he claims he sent them but I only ever got 3 so i had to order a set and I found the arp bolts local and new

So I see they are prone to breaking when being removed, I guess ill have to plan ahead if they ever need to be take out again. The standard ones show discontinued from arp
Rule of thumb, you NEVER thread stainless into cast or steel or aluminum or even other stainless, especially when higher heat is a factor, guaranteed to gall. If you JUST installed them I’d remove them while you still can. I’ve seen the ARP stainless break with ease after just two or so heat cycles and in many cases ruin a turbine housing, the fact you said it felt like it “recut the threads” in your cast turbine housing is scary in itself as I’d bet at least one would break as it is. I’d honestly trust the higher grade stuff from Rural King or any hardware store with nickel based anti seize and proper washers before stainless anything. If you can get them out of there before it’s too late for your turbine housing.

As far as availability of the standard ones you can’t find them listed as Mitsubishi turbo to manifold bolts, however if you punch in the dimensions Summit and others carry them as just ARP bolts in that dimension. Being the high heat application that it is I like using the best that I can, however I’ve found using the right anti seize with good clean threads is the meal ticket. My Morrison manifold even included the most basic higher grade hardware like one would find at Rural King or Menards, packaged along with a write up on why they include them opposed to stainless hardware.

I tell you this as it sucks to snap one of those stainless ones, and any time I can save someone from going down that road and dealing with that headache is a win in my book.
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,520
524
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
You can still get the OEM ones from site vendors for $8 each.

If it comes down to it and one breaks ill have to swap out the ebay turbo. Im not pulling them out at this point just to have to mess with them breaking. If one breaks ill order a set of oem ones and a used housing.

Ive ran them before without issues and the car I built previously still has them in after 2 years in texas, however ive never tried to remove them. My previous car stretched the oem turbo bolts but I was running a manifold blanket and turbo blanket, the arp never had trouble
 

Spleen8urLSX

Proven Member
260
162
Dec 26, 2017
Elyria, Ohio
You can still get the OEM ones from site vendors for $8 each.

If it comes down to it and one breaks ill have to swap out the ebay turbo. Im not pulling them out at this point just to have to mess with them breaking. If one breaks ill order a set of oem ones and a used housing.

Ive ran them before without issues and the car I built previously still has them in after 2 years in texas, however ive never tried to remove them. My previous car stretched the oem turbo bolts but I was running a manifold blanket and turbo blanket, the arp never had trouble
If it’s just an eBay 7cm housing and/or you have another on standby then shoot I wouldn’t sweat it either!
 
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