The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G Something eating timing belts

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mielo5280

Proven Member
41
12
Aug 29, 2019
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
For the life of me I can’t figure out what’s eating my timing belt. This is the second belt that this has happened too. The first time I suspected the timing cover was rubbing so I removed it when I installed the second belt. I made sure there was nothing rubbing or able to rub if it moved and hit the belt on the second go. The oil pan has the correct size bolts on the belt side as well.

I figured out my tension issue, but this is just frustrating me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • A9D70E1D-F6CB-4B23-95A1-D4CFE5029EFA.jpeg
    A9D70E1D-F6CB-4B23-95A1-D4CFE5029EFA.jpeg
    792.2 KB · Views: 24
I would say its the oip pan bolt but..... I think thats the inside of the belt where as yours is on the outside.

So i assume its a new timing belt from a job done. Have you confirmed the tensioner pully has been tensioned the right way as they can go clockwise and anti clockwise depending on engine year thats in the car! So you might need to check if you dont know if its had an engine swap or if it has make sure you got the right years specs right

I think, to find the problem quicker, take a paint marker or something similar, and coat the outer edge in that color. Disconnect fuel and spark and crank the engine a few revolutions. Make sure the paint got rubbed off and look around for it. Fix accordingly. Use the bad belt so you don't waste another looking for the source.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would say its the oip pan bolt but..... I think thats the inside of the belt where as yours is on the outside.
@ec17pse Yeah right Bobby. I don't think this is caused by the oil pan bolts neither. If he had longer bolts, it should have rubbed at more in center to inside on the belt. and it should have made a long line-ish rubbing sign on the belt.

My guess is, this may have been happening only when the hood is closed. I see some signs on the exhaust cam gear that looks like rubbing something. It could be rubbing the brace under the hood.
Maybe this only happens in some circumstances, like when passing speed bumps, the engine moves up down and contacts the hood, or maybe when he closes the hood while engine is running. If so, it makes sense that he couldn't find the cause before.
I would check the clearance between the cam gears and the hood. Also all engine mounts and the hood bumper. Maybe you would find some rubber pieces from the belt behind the hood brace.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
So i assume its a new timing belt from a job done. Have you confirmed the tensioner pully has been tensioned the right way as they can go clockwise and anti clockwise depending on engine year thats in the car! So you might need to check if you dont know if its had an engine swap or if it has make sure you got the right years specs right

You are correct. It was a brand new belt, both pulleys and tensioner. I swapped the motor with a forged bottom end a few months ago. Block is from a late 2g if that makes any difference. When i tensioned it, I turned the pulley counter clockwise cause it’s a 7bolt.

@ec17pse Yeah right Bobby. I don't think this is caused by the oil pan bolts neither. If he had longer bolts, it should have rubbed at more in center to inside on the belt. and it should have made a long line-ish rubbing sign on the belt.

My guess is, this may have been happening only when the hood is closed. I see some signs on the exhaust cam gear that looks like rubbing something. It could be rubbing the brace under the hood.
Maybe this only happens in some circumstances, like when passing speed bumps, the engine moves up down and contacts the hood, or maybe when he closes the hood while engine is running. If so, it makes sense that he couldn't find the cause before.
I would check the clearance between the cam gears and the hood. Also all engine mounts and the hood bumper. Maybe you would find some rubber pieces from the belt behind the hood brace.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

wow. I can’t believe I didn’t notice the wear on the cam gear. I posted to a few FB groups as well and had people think it was either my strut bar or something else hitting it like you said. All 4 mounts are brand new, so there shouldn’t be too much excessive movement in them. I’ll double check in the morning.

I think, to find the problem quicker, take a paint marker or something similar, and coat the outer edge in that color. Disconnect fuel and spark and crank the engine a few revolutions. Make sure the paint got rubbed off and look around for it. Fix accordingly. Use the bad belt so you don't waste another looking for the source.

I will try this tomorrow. That’s a good idea.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
@ec17pse My guess is, this may have been happening only when the hood is closed. I see some signs on the exhaust cam gear that looks like rubbing something. It could be rubbing the brace under the hood.
Maybe this only happens in some circumstances, like when passing speed bumps, the engine moves up down and contacts the hood, or maybe when he closes the hood while engine is running. If so, it makes sense that he couldn't find the cause before.
I would check the clearance between the cam gears and the hood. Also all engine mounts and the hood bumper. Maybe you would find some rubber pieces from the belt behind the hood brace.


My counter to this is he said:
The first time I suspected the timing cover was rubbing so I removed it when I installed the second belt.

However, the hood would make sense to an extent. The cam cover would never be hard enough to wear the metal cam gears down, whereas the hood would. Also, see if the hood likewise has any wear marks. Still try that idea I mentioned earlier, there really shouldn't be anything remotely close to those gears to cause that damage. Even the strut bar wouldn't be close enough based on where it should be mounted.
 
My counter to this is he said:


However, the hood would make sense to an extent. The cam cover would never be hard enough to wear the metal cam gears down, whereas the hood would. Also, see if the hood likewise has any wear marks. Still try that idea I mentioned earlier, there really shouldn't be anything remotely close to those gears to cause that damage. Even the strut bar wouldn't be close enough based on where it should be mounted.
My guess was by assuming that he meant the timing cover the one on the side (lower), not the cam gear cover. And I didn't mean the strut bar and I don't think so. The strut bar is on intake side, so. I meant the hood brace on the back side of the hood or maybe the hood itself. Anyways if the exhaust cam gear's wear is related to the belt damage, he can probably find some sign since the cam gear is metal.
 
Last edited:
I see a mark on the strut brace. Do you run an upper cover? It's not super clear but looks like a rub mark and some rubber debris. Motor still moves some with new mounts. I've heard of this before only on 2g because there are several vendors that make bars that sit close like that.
 
Inspect the inside of the timing covers. Is the hydraulic tensioner on correctly? It should be mounted using the top holes on both sides. There are two holes on the right side of the tensioner. These are the only places below that can come in contact with the tbelt on the lower half. There are two different hydraulic tensioners for 2g. I don’t know if that makes a difference
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
It seems also that the belt could be deflecting and hitting the hydraulic tensioner body if the belt is too loose, thats just a thought if everything else turns out to be in spec.
 
I went out and looked things over in the daylight. There was no marks on the hood, hood brace, or strut bar. I’m not sure why the cam gear has those wear marks, these were used cam gears from another head.

The tensioner I used was a late 95-99 tensioner. The tension is still good on the belt. I also can’t find any rubber marks on anything without taking the water pump pulley off. I will have to get the car to my shop and take the acc belts off to inspect things further.
 
I took someone’s suggestion and put some chalk where the belt is being rubbed and turned the motor over with the starter to see if anything is touching. So far nothing seems to be rubbing. I was going to let the motor idle for a second to see if it changes.

Also added is a picture of the tensioner pulley.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
BUT...the timing plate IS chewing on the belt and I'd replace it to keep it from fraying the belt. If the tensioner ever "bounces" I can see the lever taking a chunk out of a belt. I can't explain your issue but am pointing out some that I see.
 
Could the whole thing be cause it’s too tight? It makes a whining noise no matter what I’ve done so far. I’ve taken all acc belts off. I received the front case from a friend that had a spare with the grooved balance shaft delete, but he can’t remember if it had straight cut oil gears in it.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
BUT...the timing plate IS chewing on the belt and I'd replace it to keep it from fraying the belt. If the tensioner ever "bounces" I can see the lever taking a chunk out of a belt. I can't explain your issue but am pointing out some that I see.
What makes you suspect the timing plate? I appreciate the input.
 
Man I'm sorry. I looked at your pictures wrong. The oil pump pulley IS chewing on the outside. I replaced mine for the issue of fraying and that stopped on the motor that had one that looked like yours. Your timing plate looks fine from the pictures I can see.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top