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SOLID front/rear aluminum motor mounts!

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Well, this thread is a little old but I pm'd biglady and then realized he didnt do these anymore....So in my answer for a solution....I have access to a lathe at work so Im debating actually making these out of delrin instead of aluminum....

Anybody have any thoughts on this, or If anybody is doing this....Please pm me, this is honestly one of the last things Im waiting on.....

-Kevin-
 
I would rather see a solid urethane motor mount for the 2g'ers that have to rely on the craptastic inserts.

Agreed, for the long haul I'm sure urethane is also another great choice. On a side note, I had a chance to have a look at my aluminum mounts a week or two ago and they seem to be holding it VERY nicely. The only thing I can see is the bolt hole is VERY SLIGHTLY oval-ing. They still produce the same shake, but perform like champs :hellyeah:
 
Agreed, for the long haul I'm sure urethane is also another great choice. On a side note, I had a chance to have a look at my aluminum mounts a week or two ago and they seem to be holding it VERY nicely. The only thing I can see is the bolt hole is VERY SLIGHTLY oval-ing. They still produce the same shake, but perform like champs :hellyeah:


Tom, was that the front or rear mount that you noticed that bit of ovaling?
 
They are made from aluminum, not steel. A good option would be to press a steel sleeve into the aluminum where the bolt passes through. This takes more time and money, however, and I haven't heard of any failure from the aluminum mounts yet.
 
Tom, was that the front or rear mount that you noticed that bit of ovaling?

It was the front I noticed.

What about using a stronger steel to prevent ovaling?

They are made from aluminum, not steel. A good option would be to press a steel sleeve into the aluminum where the bolt passes through. This takes more time and money, however, and I haven't heard of any failure from the aluminum mounts yet.

Ehh, I'm not sure how the aluminum will fail, anyway. ACE hardware sells steel like sleeves in the form of rods that I'm sure could be used, but real-world use (at least in my case) wouldn't warrant such a project.
 
They are made from aluminum, not steel. A good option would be to press a steel sleeve into the aluminum where the bolt passes through. This takes more time and money, however, and I haven't heard of any failure from the aluminum mounts yet.

That wouldn't do anything. The steel sleeve would just act as a bigger bolt and oval it out regardless.
 
For those of you with solid aluminum mounts, have you noticed a much greater transfer of noise into the car?

A few weeks ago I installed the timing belt side aluminum mount, and noticed a type of "rattle" now coming from that side of the engine. Nothing else bad has come of this, just the noise.

Today I installed the trans side solid aluminum mount and now again, I notice an increase in noise. It's now that I notice more of a noise coming from the trans. Its seems I can hear gear whine, etc. Even moreso in reverse as its a straight cut gear.

Just wanting some others insight on this.
 
For those of you with solid aluminum mounts, have you noticed a much greater transfer of noise into the car?

A few weeks ago I installed the timing belt side aluminum mount, and noticed a type of "rattle" now coming from that side of the engine. Nothing else bad has come of this, just the noise.

Today I installed the trans side solid aluminum mount and now again, I notice an increase in noise. It's now that I notice more of a noise coming from the trans. Its seems I can hear gear whine, etc. Even moreso in reverse as its a straight cut gear.

Just wanting some others insight on this.

Something has to give and if you take out the cushion that you had with rubber or prothane then things that were putting the force on other parts will start to be heard more. That is why I didn't cut any corners with drivetrain stuff because with all solid mounts thing will be less forgiving.
 
Mine have not ovaled out yet. But I am sure Toan drives his car more than I do. I have what, 750-1000 miles this year. And that is only because my samurai took a dump and I waited for parts to fix it.

However. I no longer have my front roll stop. It is now a 1/4" thick L-shaped bracket that bolts the the block and the cross member. A truly rigid mount now.

My car is ###ing loud. But, I have no interior, a true side exit exhuast, no dash, minimal wiring harness, so on and so forth. Just a motor and a shell really.

Steven
 
The ones I got from big lady are amazing, lots of track passes, lots of street driving and no rounding out. The vibration isn't really even that bad anyways.
 
TO answer a few things asked in here from my experience... I was asked to make some when a member couldn'tget a set from another member here that was making them, just not when he needed them. They knew i had a lathe and sent me a PM and i agreed to make them some, I have since sold about 5 pairs

I used 7075 and 6061 on a couple sets each and the way i got rid of the ovaling issue (or at least delayed it) was to make the center hole a press fit (almost i only left .005 for clearance) the tighter the bolt is in the hole and the tighter the mount fits the less room you have for movement that causes the ovalling. The bolt may need to be put through with a hammer and a few love taps, but better fit = less slop

I dont run them on my car yet (simply too lazy to pull mine off until i get in there for something else) but so far out of the sets i've sold i haven'theard of any ovalling
 
TO answer a few things asked in here from my experience... I was asked to make some when a member couldn'tget a set from another member here that was making them, just not when he needed them. They knew i had a lathe and sent me a PM and i agreed to make them some, I have since sold about 5 pairs

I used 7075 and 6061 on a couple sets each and the way i got rid of the ovaling issue (or at least delayed it) was to make the center hole a press fit (almost i only left .005 for clearance) the tighter the bolt is in the hole and the tighter the mount fits the less room you have for movement that causes the ovalling. The bolt may need to be put through with a hammer and a few love taps, but better fit = less slop

I dont run them on my car yet (simply too lazy to pull mine off until i get in there for something else) but so far out of the sets i've sold i haven'theard of any ovalling

I always wondered that... why is the hole so big for a small bolt? Does the car feel tighter with the smaller hole you made?
 
We saw that, but wanted to keep it simple. Make them exactly like the stock mounts. Tat way there was no question. And when the engine is all tweaked with no mounts, it would making them get put back in essentially like putting a stock mount back in. There was some thought as to why I kept them that way.
 
We saw that, but wanted to keep it simple. Make them exactly like the stock mounts. Tat way there was no question. And when the engine is all tweaked with no mounts, it would making them get put back in essentially like putting a stock mount back in. There was some thought as to why I kept them that way.

I havent got to see a set of yours yet. Are you saying you make the hole as large as the OEM unit has? I can definitely see a reason to do it that way ( or to offset the hole ). HOnestly the ones i make are a PITA to install, you litterally have to use a jack to get the motor into position for the mount bolts to be started

Do you install yours too or do you just ship out the inserts? I have had the mis-fortune LOL to have to press in all but 2 sets that i sold and got to install one set in the car (thus the jack method) Reason i ask is that i've not found any other way than peening the rear mount to get the insert to stop moving around and not rattle (i'm completely anal about things i make, so they have to be damn near perfect for me to ship them) I've noticed nwhen putting the new ones in that the OEM mount are "ovalled" and then re-stretch to a circle by the forst the insert exerts on the outtter part... I've also noticed the OEM mounts are not very uniform from one unit to the next making picking a universal size a pain for me (cause i'm so damn picky LOL )
 
That is why we do one mount at a time. Custom so to speak per the mounts that arrive. We torch the rubber out after measuring, turn down the aluminum slightly oversized, weld the metal outer sleeve to the mount, grind her down a little to be pretty, press in aluminum, drill stock sized hole.

Sent out around 50 sets now. MOst just two mounts, but a handfull of all four mounts.

Steven
 
I have a set also, came out great. I just drilled out the holes in the "bracket" and used a larger diameter bolt and nut.
 
I was the first to get both the side mounts from steve but while I haven't put a load on them yet the wholes fit the bolts perfect. Just like the sleve that comes with a prothane kit. ONly reason I didn't get all four from him is because my front mount is built into my crossmember that I picked up from paul(99gstracer) during his first batch.
 
For those people on a budget, I used hockey pucks for all four mounts. Cam belt mount and gearbox mount was a press fit for 2 pucks and the other 2 mounts were spun up in the lathe. $1.90 per a puck and i used 8 pucks. lots of 12second launchs later and they are still good.
 
^^^ That is crazy. How many miles on top of the 12 second launches?? What are they made out of?
 
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