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So leaking HG and have to drive it.

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Eclipse 1998

10+ Year Contributor
240
32
Jul 21, 2010
,, Indiana
Ok so I'm almost positive I have a leaking HG, the following symptoms meet my criteria: white smoke coming from exhaust that smells sweet, loosing coolant from coolant resevoir, took off radiator cap and have constant air bubbles. My car is at my buddies house and i can no longer keep it there and I am forced to drive it home 30 min in this condition. Just bought this car only has 59000 miles what a pos.
 
OK, so when I get it home where do I go from here, I'm 99.99% its a leaking HG due to symptoms listed, please list your best advice possible. I plan on buying a Honda cbr 600rr Wed while I save up funds to rebuild the motor to handle 650 hp.

How should i drive it home, no boost and keep it in low rpm's?
 
You'll want to do a compression test. A headgasket is not a huge deal. It's nothing you couldn't fix in a weekend with basic automotive knowledge.
 
How would I check the crankcase? Also I drained the coolant and oil and neither appears to be mixed with one another.

Pics are oil which have 0 miles and 45 min of idle time, fresh oil, and coolant with 0 miles and 45 min of idle time,
 

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If your going to drive it make sure you top everything off and maybe leave the radiator cap alittle loose so it can't build pressure. Also bring a gallon of water just in case you feel its leaked to much and needs more water. As far as fixing it, I would compresion test, do a coolant pressure test, drain and check oil and coolant. Its best to do a few basic test to accurately find the problem. Bottom line if the HG is blown the head has to come off. So plan to do some other Pm's while you have things apart, timing belt, water pump, gasket and seals, maybe upgrade to some arp's studs. You say you want to build to 650awhp then start thinking of parts needed to make this happen! Tuning, fuel, turbo, cams, intake, exhaust... And so on
 
Yes 650 is ultimately where I want to be and I am almost there u can check my mod list but I have fic 1100cc, walbro 250, AEM ems V2, FP68hta, and a stock block. Right now im in the process of putting on a new ofh and topping eveything off to drive it home in the morning.I just dont know how to do a HG, and never messed with timing belt but im sure i could figure it out bc i have done everyhting to my car so far and i got it stock. Just need a little help and the best links that you could give me. Please and thank you, also i have one valve stem seal leaking but that's a whole other problem but i read if the head is off its easier to replace the seals.
 
Ya bro its something you should definitely learn owning a dsm! Go into the tech section here and it has everything you could need! Tech Article Archives - DSM Forums
It could be that your blown in between the cylinder and coolant passage and not near a oil passage. Best thing to do is a compression test and see which cylinder is the lowest and that's most likely where your leaks at.
 
I bought my current DSM with a blown head gasket. Same HG symptoms as with you. I drove it 200 and some miles home with no issue. I just went 55mph and didn't ever stop or else it would overheat in a hurry.
 
I know seems far fetched but what the hell it's easy, I'd try it.

So, the head gasket will inevitably be replaced right? Right. Well, on a 2g engine, the head bolts will also need replacement since they are torque to yield bolts, aka NOT reusable. Here's an option. Pop off that valve cover (easy peasy, bunch of 10mm bolts and like a few, maybe four spark plug boots) and check the head bolts for being loose. You never know, but hey they'll probably be alright. But wait, one more thing to try. Get that ratchet out and I shitith you not, turn each head bolt until it moves ever so slightly tighter. Might clamp enough to get you places.

Last thing, take the rad cap off, start engine after its been sitting a while and check how long before bubbles show up. If there's a good bubbly delay, remove the thermostat just in case it's a leak that gets really bad but only at operating temperature. Blast the heater in this case also.

If you can tell when the engine starts detonating (stay out boost obviously) or can log it that's when to shut er down. The temp gauge won't be an indicator once coolant starts boiling.
 
I am right up the road from you If you need somebody to do the work..I would seriously consider zeroing out your timing components at the same time, plus water pump.
 
Got the car home safe and sound no problems. Can anyone tell me if this is bad or good? Ok so i have a mishimoto 143 degree thermostat a x-line radiator and mishimoto slim line fan shroud, anyways on the way home i drove 55 the whole way out of boost the entire time with the heat off and the water temp gauge was showing 185 degrees and the fans stayed on the whole time? This is too hot correct?

Also here is a pic just before i drove it home it was weird bc it didn't smoke at all the whole way home, or while idling, but it sucked about 1/4 of coolant from the reservoir when i checked it when i got home?

VRP did you get my PM?
 

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To hot my car normally runs at like 200ish, and that's normal to me bro!! So no it's not to hot, sounds like your cooling system is working good. Why are the fans always on? I actually have mine always on anyway but just wondering if you wired them that way or? Just seems like you blew the HG between a cylinder and coolant passage. Compresion test will answer all your questions! They are super easy to do and If I were you id take vrp's offer to help. :)
 
Yea I would really appreciate the help but he hasn't gotten back to me yet. I will do a comp test tomorrow and report back with the numbers.After i remove the spark plugs do you know what size threads are in the spark plug hole? So i can know what line I need to attach to the comp gauge?Should i also do a combustion leak test?
 
Go to a local car parts store and buy/borrow a compression tester. It is large round gauge with about a 12" hose on it, just so you know :) Once you are back home (or even in their parking lot, if they let you) do this:

Remove spark plugs
Remove fuel pump fuse (that will keep fuel pump from flooding cylinders with fuel while you'r testing)
Screw the tester into one cylinder. Should not need tools for that, it usually seals well hand-tight.
Turn the engine over for ten-twenty seconds.
Look at the gauge and record the pressure it shows
Bleed pressure from gauge. There will be a button on the hose that you press to do that.
Repeat that with other cylinders.
Re-install spark plugs and fuel pump fuse.

Report back with numbers. Keep an eye for difference of more than 15 PSI between cylinders. Usually if it is a head gasket then the engine will have lower compression in two cylinders that are next to each other. Not sure about what 'normal' results should be. Thinking it's about 150-200 PSI.
 
Just did my comp test today and the numbers are all within the +/- 14 so i should be good right?

Cylinder # 1 120
Cylinder # 2 110
Cylinder # 3 110
Cylinder # 4 115
 
those numbers seem to be a little low. how did you do you compression test? was the engine at operating temp, throttle open? wet or dry? not sure on the the 2g's but i think someone stated that the service limit was 133.

I would suspect a head gasket issue or more likely just a tired engine if it has a lot of miles, but it also could be an issue with the valves and/or timing. This only applies if the comp test was done correctly.
 
Operating temp was around only 160 degree, then the car sat for 8 min. Not sure what you mean by wet or dry. Engine only has 59000 miles on it, and why would you suspect a HG issue otherwise? Lastly I only let it crank over for about 4 seconds, should I have waited longer?
 
Operating temp was around only 160 degree, then the car sat for 8 min. Not sure what you mean by wet or dry. Engine only has 59000 miles on it, and why would you suspect a HG issue otherwise? Lastly I only let it crank over for about 4 seconds, should I have waited longer?

you do it about 3 cranks it will stop going up on the gauge.
Wet or dry(was there fuel running to the engine or no fuel)
 
Yes it was wet, I could not find the fuel fuse. I pulled the ignition fuse and the car wouldn't crank so I plugged it back it. Should i have brought it up to a higher operating temp?
 
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