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2G snapped the ole' timing belt : P

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ErikTande

Supporting Member
1,505
560
Dec 17, 2012
Centennial, Colorado
well shit LOL

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are all 2g heads the same? i definitely bent valves. gonna try source a local replacement head.

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don't push your timing belt kids : P
 
Time for a little upgrading with that project..
ARP headstuds 😎
Already ordered LOL

Almost everyone was sold out, JNZ had them listed though.

Got the timing belt kit from Extreme Psi ordered too.
 
I'm in the middle of this, and in addition to the usual laundry list of valves, gaskets, seals, belts and any other valve train parts, because some (most) of this stuff is 30 years old, I've got

Rebuild PS pump
Rebuild alternator
Rebuild AC compressor
Glass bead and paint intake manifold
Paint valve cover
Replace damaged lower timing cover
Replace all vacuum hoses which are dry and suspicious
Replace all radiator and coolant hoses
Replace fuel hoses
Clean and paint throttle body, thermostat housing, egr valve
Replace cracked exhaust manifold and rusty heat shield
Do an air filter and intake hose upgrade
Clean and paint the dozen brackets, plates and mounts.
New radiator (it had corroded at the bottom of the core) and paint the fan housings
It's going to be an expensive belt break event, but hoping the car will drive reliably afterwards.

With a highest goal of 300hp, the machine shop doesn't think I need springs or cams. Any recommendation on valves? Head gasket?

The machinist thinks the reason the belt broke early is because the last mechanic put the cam caps on wrong, binding the cams, belt gives up.
 
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I'm in the middle of this, and in addition to the usual laundry list of valves, gaskets, seals, belts and any other valve train parts, because some (most) of this stuff is 30 years old, I've got

Rebuild PS pump
Rebuild alternator
Rebuild AC compressor
Glass bead and paint intake manifold
Paint valve cover
Replace damaged lower timing cover
Replace all vacuum hoses which are dry and suspicious
Replace all radiator and coolant hoses
Replace fuel hoses
Clean and paint throttle body, thermostat housing, egr valve
Replace cracked exhaust manifold and rusty heat shield
Do an air filter and intake hose upgrade
Clean and paint the dozen brackets, plates and mounts.
New radiator and paint the fan housings
It's going to be an expensive belt break event, but hoping the car will drive reliably afterwards.

With a highest goal of 300hp, the machine shop doesn't think I need springs or cams. Any recommendation on valves? Head gasket?
300HP is pretty easy to make on stock components. Composite head gasket will be fine. I'm on a composite on my 1g with ARP head studs and making 460HP at the wheels :thumb:
 
I'm in the middle of this, and in addition to the usual laundry list of valves, gaskets, seals, belts and any other valve train parts, because some (most) of this stuff is 30 years old, I've got

Rebuild PS pump
Rebuild alternator
Rebuild AC compressor
Glass bead and paint intake manifold
Paint valve cover
Replace damaged lower timing cover
Replace all vacuum hoses which are dry and suspicious
Replace all radiator and coolant hoses
Replace fuel hoses
Clean and paint throttle body, thermostat housing, egr valve
Replace cracked exhaust manifold and rusty heat shield
Do an air filter and intake hose upgrade
Clean and paint the dozen brackets, plates and mounts.
New radiator (it had corroded at the bottom of the core) and paint the fan housings
It's going to be an expensive belt break event, but hoping the car will drive reliably afterwards.

With a highest goal of 300hp, the machine shop doesn't think I need springs or cams. Any recommendation on valves? Head gasket?

The machinist thinks the reason the belt broke early is because the last mechanic put the cam caps on wrong, binding the cams, belt gives up.
You don’t need aftermarket springs or cams if all you are shooting for is 300hp.

If the cam caps were installed incorrectly, the cams would not turn at all. Engine would die immediately
 
If the cam caps were installed incorrectly, the cams would not turn at all. Engine would die immediately
Timing belt broke at 22,900 miles after replacement. Twice before it had skipped a few teeth and went out of time. Third time it snapped. All 3 times work was done by same mechanic. Something was binding, but still allowed it to run.
 
Ouch! So sorry about this and hopefully the damage isn't too extensive and can be fixed. What belt was it that broke, and what are you replacing it with, and are you going to do it yourself or find a real mechanic? I'm past due on replacing the TB and related parts on my Talon and intend to get to it when I'm done rebuilding my trans. I'm also going to flush out and replace the coolant, flush out the heater core and put in a new WP and thermostat while I'm at it.
 
Timing belt broke at 22,900 miles after replacement. Twice before it had skipped a few teeth and went out of time. Third time it snapped. All 3 times work was done by same mechanic. Something was binding, but still allowed it to run.
Find a new mechanic. It’s not the cams that are binding. Sounds like he didn’t set the tension correctly
 
Ouch! So sorry about this and hopefully the damage isn't too extensive and can be fixed. What belt was it that broke, and what are you replacing it with, and are you going to do it yourself or find a real mechanic? I'm past due on replacing the TB and related parts on my Talon and intend to get to it when I'm done rebuilding my trans. I'm also going to flush out and replace the coolant, flush out the heater core and put in a new WP and thermostat while I'm at it.
It'll need a new head for sure. I'm gonna do it myself. New head, new head gasket, arp head studs, oem timing belt kit, water pump, etc.

I'll probably be getting a head from Rix Racing, but I found I can also get one from Autozone for like $600 bucks.
 
It'll need a new head for sure. I'm gonna do it myself. New head, new head gasket, arp head studs, oem timing belt kit, etc.

I'll probably be getting a head from Rix Racing, but I found I can also get one from Autozone for like $600 bucks.
If Autozone has it then maybe Advance Auto also does, and you might be able to use one of their 20% off coupons. Worth a try. What about RockAuto?
 
Nooo! Been there done that. It happened to me on my '90 1G Eclipse 2L N/T.

After taking the head off and looking things over. I sourced new valves. Realised that was the cheapest option to start with.

After lapping them in I had great success with the overall job. Always worth a go IMO.

On another note Mr velocity, when are we to expect some new vids regarding the 1GA eclipse?
 
Not a bad deal on the head Erik.
 
Cmon Eric!! Is it rookie hour? ROFL You know better.
Oh it's even worse than that. I even had the timing belt off to replace the cam sensor, and I was like, meh, it'll be good for another year. Slap it back on!

I was dead wrong loI
 
Find a new mechanic. It’s not the cams that are binding. Sounds like he didn’t set the tension correctly
Yes, based on this and a few other missing/broken/cobbled things I found when disassembling, I agree. He's no longer in business, might be related. No, the machinist I took the head to said some of the cam caps were on wrong, and there was light scoring on one journal. So 1) if the tension was a little loose, wouldn't it have just slipped the belt, not snapped it? There is no visible belt tooth wear. 2) The machinist looked at the belt and said it looked like a stress break.

I dunno. I'm rebuilding the head professionally, install it, and go from there. Hopefully I get the tension set right!
 
Yes, based on this and a few other missing/broken/cobbled things I found when disassembling, I agree. He's no longer in business, might be related. No, the machinist I took the head to said some of the cam caps were on wrong, and there was light scoring on one journal. So 1) if the tension was a little loose, wouldn't it have just slipped the belt, not snapped it? There is no visible belt tooth wear. 2) The machinist looked at the belt and said it looked like a stress break.

I dunno. I'm rebuilding the head professionally, install it, and go from there. Hopefully I get the tension set right!
Were you Able to inspect the tensioner and idler pulleys to see if they still spun freely? The timing belt itself rarely breaks from fatigue/age. It’s usually another component failure that causes the belt to slip/break
 
Wait, so when doing a TB change for preventive maintenance every 60k miles or X years, it's the other parts you really need to replace and less so the actual belt? I think I've read that the balance belt tends to break, skip or come off and take everything else with it. Is this so?
 
Yes, I'm aware of that, and will do so (although my stock setup doesn't need some of these more rugged parts). I'm just asking if the parts that tend to actually fail are other than the TB itself.
 
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