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snapped bolts -__- drilling a hole in the turbo inlet

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stheodore10

10+ Year Contributor
78
0
Apr 3, 2012
Hillsborough, New_Jersey
i now have two new problems; snapped bolts:

one in the turbo inlet

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and two of these in the head


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i would definitely not like to take apart the turbo and bring it to a machine shop, who can help?
 
The ones in the head aren't too bad to remove but the turbo bolts suck. I just take it to the machine shop and let them do it.
 
Yep machine shop can do it, the head will be a pita for some, others simple enough but everyone will have a method that works for him or her.
 
You can try drilling the bolt out with a left hand drill bit then use a EZ out. IF you can a welder out can try welding a nut to them.


i tried an easy out but screwed that up, i might just need a smaller bit, but to be honest i dont think itll work


The ones in the head aren't too bad to remove but the turbo bolts suck. I just take it to the machine shop and let them do it.

i dont want to have to take apart the whole turbo to get the inlet out of the car...
 
usually when a nut or bolt begins to feel restrictive I stop, spray penetrant on the few exposed threads then tighten it back in, let it cool down(alot of friction creates heat which softens the metal and causes it to snap easier.) and repeat that process until the penetrant has gone through all the threads inside, then I slowly begin to pull the bolt out and occasionally back in to ease off the resistance.

Some people spray penetrant on the bolt head and let it sit. It does nothing, if anything it will make you slip that wrench off the head and strip it. spraying the threads it the key, so You always have to break the torque first. (irony, because it sometimes snaps from the get-go, but not every case is the same)

Another method is using a heat gun, while this may work the theory is that heated metal expands and actually becomes tighter and weaker. but the point of heating it is to break down any loctite or any matter causing binding to the threads.

The best way in my opinion: (we use in aviation) is to apply dry ice or freeze the bolt with the part which reduces the diameter of the bolt making it easy to remove as it doesnt contact as much area as when in normal temperature. there is a little more to it when using this method but that is the main objective under it.
 
i broke a stud off in the turbo inlet and nowi needto drill it out... any suggestions?

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photo is kind of out of date, broken easy out bit not fills the hole, removable though. easy outs are out of the question
 
spray it with penetrating oil. get some of the tapered fluted extrators like the ones in this link Cal-Van Tools Tapered Fluted Extractor Set - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

Your going to want to drill a hole as close to center down the shank of the broken stud, increase the size of your bits until you've removed a lot of the stud but not enough to damage the threads of the hole, then hammer the largest extractor you can fit down the hole and try to pull it out, if that doesnt work... light a torch and torch the center of the hole for a while, get it nice and hot... then spray more penetrating oil on it to cool it off fast, then try the extractor again. should come out

From the picture the hardest part will be drilling a center hole beside the existing hole which is majorly off center, I'd recommand using a cobalt bit probably 1/4 inch and hold the drill on an angle to prevent the drill from wandering until you have a start then straighten it back out again. Use drilling oil on the bit to prevent it from overheating, and will help the drilling to go faster. If your too close to the edge you may damage the threads, you do not want to do this

Do not let metal filings get inside the turbo, alternator or any other areas of the engine, the shop towel you put inside there is good, maybe use some more towels to cover everything else.


another note, is there any of the stud sticking out the other side of the hole maybe you can grab it tight with a pair of vice grips. might require removing the turbine housing and clamping it in a vice
 
If you have a welder handy:

Take a nut, the same size as what would thread onto the bolt. Thread pitch does not matter. Lay it over the broken stud, and use a HIGH heat, on my lincoln, its the E setting, and weld the nut to the stud. Explaining this in a forum is alot harder than a visual.

The heat from welding will free the stud, and the nut in place gives you something to attach a bar onto.

From personal experience, this has never failed for me. I live in a place where there is so much salt, you get a high blood pressure from breathing.



If you do not have access to a welder, a local exhaust shop does, and for a small cash fee, will likely remove the bolt for you.
 
Drill a hole down the center of the bolt get an easy out that fits the hole you drilled get a map gas torch heat up around the bolt till it gets cherry red turn in half turn at a time and heat it again if it stops turning should come out and should prevent You from snapping off the easy out in the bolt. You could also spray some zep penetrating oil but you might wanna do that outside tends to smoke a lot. good luck:thumb:
 
man, your starting hole is so far off center it's gona be a PITA for you to do it with a hand drill but if you've got at least a vice you'll be ok to get a new start on it. Being a long time machinist for hobby and now as my sole income aside from DSM parts i have/get/sell, I have learned to NEVER use easy outs (even the set i got from Matco all broke off in bolts that were too stuck to get out with a punch and hammer)

If the bolt it so stuck that you can't back it out by either slotting it with a dremel style tool and use a screw driver, or if it can't be worked out with a hammer and punch here's what i do, and NEVER have issues with it so it's become my sole process

Now this might be harder for you withg the hole so far off center also.. but foir the stuck easy out use a sharpened punch and beat it into pieces (wear goggle/glasses and gloves) High speed pieces of easy outs will go through skin like a bullet and don't even risk your eyes!!!!!!!!!!

That said, get the hole centered as best you can, and drill all the way through (this is important)
re-start your drilling at an angle to work your way to the center of the bolt, start drillling towards the thick side from the hols you've started and eventually you['ll have it to where this proces will work)

***I have a mill i do this on and i usually charge 10 bucks a bolt removeal, and 8 extra to add a time-sert or heli-coil, (some being easier and some being a pain to do, so it all evens out)

Start working up to bigger and bigger bits untill you see the threads showing on the edge you're closest too (kinda too late in your case but if you drill at an angle you can use this idea to get it out)

Once you've drilled to where you see the main parts original threads, then the remaining bolt pieces should be thing enough that you can take a punch andknock/bend them inwards, at this point You can usually grab the bent in edge with tiny pliers liike needle nose and unthread it, if it won't unthreadd just go all the way around it beating the sides to the center away from the main peice and you'll be able to just knock the entire left overs out or pull them out with pliers

I've NEVER had a bolt i couldn't extract this way.. be it turbine housings or even one of the 2 studs on the front motor mount on a 2g DSM, whish is where i came up with the idea to do it this way, which i don't claim to have invented, but it's where i did it first since i couldn't get to it any other way to try and unthread it with the engine in the car :D
 
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