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small 16g, big 16g, or evo 3 16g?

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skinnykenny84 said:
Dude, get you a bigger turbo. If you are on a budget {like me} look in the classifieds they are full of great deals. I also cant figure out what is so wrong with using race gas or bigger turbos. I mean is there some kind of prize for the guy that runs 11s on pump gas and a evo316g? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/timeslips.php ----look what these guys are using, get a more efficient turbo.

The Evo 16g is one of the most effiecient turbos out there for its size and price. It is hard to compare with anything else. Nobody ever said there was anything wrong with using a bigger turbo, but there is a hell of a lot more to it than just slapping one on and expecting to run a fast time. This is proven by some of the times put down using the smaller turbos. I like how alot of people think they need a bigger turbo only to see them bolt a 50 trim on and run 13's.
 
SethA said:
I think people get off on the wrong track by just looking at the compressor maps and ignoring the hotside. The sweet spot of a small is 77%, a big is 71%, and a E3 is 74%.

Where the "more efficient at higher boost" came from is a mystery though.

Seth

This is imperically more important in choice. Take a list of turbo's and look at what they are good at and then select the one that you need for your goals based on what they are good at. efficiency determines what a turbo is good at: throwing air into your engine.

I am assuming 24+ psi is high boost. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Absolutely and with mounds of proof, the SMALL 16G is a better turbo for the 18-20 psi range, if your setup will be putting down 290-300whp; no mater if you're running a stock long block, cammed 2.0, or 5.0L V8. If you want more. . . it is still at 70% efficiency at 25 psi and flowing over 39 lb/min (over 400 horsepower). This is based on the MHI compressor map. MHI is known to undercut their compressor ratings. The EVO3 flows the exact same lbs/min at the same psi as the SMALL 16G. As mentioned by sweet97, it does have a better designed compressor wheel (thinner, lighter blades). The wheel is still very much larger in inducer and exducer diameter (bigger blades and bigger overall diameter). However, a true EVO3 16g has an Inconel (steel alloy) turbine blade(straight from the stealth316 website). This subtracts weight and makes the entire rotating assembly nearly equal in weight to the SMALL 16g. Both utilize the same turbine wheel dimensions, turbine blade shape, tubine housing shape. So the spool of the EVO3 should maybe spool up to the same time as the SMALL 16G. And I & many others have reported spool times far surpassing the reports of the EVO3 spool time. The only difference is the RPMs. The EVO3 is spinning at 132,000 rpms at this level. But the SMALL 16G is spinning at 151,000 rpms. This affects turbo longevity.

Don't even study the big 16g here. it sucks at this level....

Listen to andymoritis. If you absolutely must to have a 16g variant and you need to run over 25 psi get the evo3 . . . only because of turbo life.

Yes, SBR made 400 horsepower with an EVO3, but it is alot easier to make more with less for the rest of us by using another turbo that costs 100-200 bones more.

I say this: The SMALL 16G will beat out the EVO at every boost level up to 25 psi. After that an 18g, 20g, or 50trim absolutely dominates it.
 
I thank you Matt, for that explanation, and everyone who is torn between these two turbo's should read it. Makes me feel that much better about my little 16g. I like to think of it as a great learning turbo.:thumb:
 
dsm-onster said:
This is imperically more important in choice. Take a list of turbo's and look at what they are good at and then select the one that you need for your goals based on what they are good at. efficiency determines what a turbo is good at: throwing air into your engine.

I am assuming 24+ psi is high boost. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Absolutely and with mounds of proof, the SMALL 16G is a better turbo for the 18-20 psi range, if your setup will be putting down 290-300whp; no mater if you're running a stock long block, cammed 2.0, or 5.0L V8. If you want more. . . it is still at 70% efficiency at 25 psi and flowing over 39 lb/min (over 400 horsepower). This is based on the MHI compressor map. MHI is known to undercut their compressor ratings. The EVO3 flows the exact same lbs/min at the same psi as the SMALL 16G. As mentioned by sweet97, it does have a better designed compressor wheel (thinner, lighter blades). The wheel is still very much larger in inducer and exducer diameter (bigger blades and bigger overall diameter). However, a true EVO3 16g has an Inconel (steel alloy) turbine blade(straight from the stealth316 website). This subtracts weight and makes the entire rotating assembly nearly equal in weight to the SMALL 16g. Both utilize the same turbine wheel dimensions, turbine blade shape, tubine housing shape. So the spool of the EVO3 should maybe spool up to the same time as the SMALL 16G. And I & many others have reported spool times far surpassing the reports of the EVO3 spool time. The only difference is the RPMs. The EVO3 is spinning at 132,000 rpms at this level. But the SMALL 16G is spinning at 151,000 rpms. This affects turbo longevity.

Don't even study the big 16g here. it sucks at this level....

Listen to andymoritis. If you absolutely must to have a 16g variant and you need to run over 25 psi get the evo3 . . . only because of turbo life.

Yes, SBR made 400 horsepower with an EVO3, but it is alot easier to make more with less for the rest of us by using another turbo that costs 100-200 bones more.

I say this: The SMALL 16G will beat out the EVO at every boost level up to 25 psi. After that an 18g, 20g, or 50trim absolutely dominates it.

Thank you for the explanation. I did not understand until this post.:thumb:

Seth
 
dsm-onster said:
Listen to andymoritis. If you absolutely must to have a 16g variant and you need to run over 25 psi get the evo3 . . . only because of turbo life.

Yes, SBR made 400 horsepower with an EVO3, but it is alot easier to make more with less for the rest of us by using another turbo that costs 100-200 bones more.

I say this: The SMALL 16G will beat out the EVO at every boost level up to 25 psi. After that an 18g, 20g, or 50trim absolutely dominates it.

I am a little confused on these statements. Are you saying that the EVO3B16g will only out perform a small 16g when boost is above 25psi? And that the small 16g will make more power and produce better overall performance at any boost level below that?

Is this a theory on paper or do you have real world performance figures to back it up? I am in no way trying to discredit you, just trying to understand.

From my experience and the experience of others the EVO3 is the best in the 16g lineup and has proven itself on a dyno and at the track. I dont know of many if any cars making close to 400 whp or going 11's on a small 16g but that doesnt necessarily mean anything.
 
I was sort of wondering the same. How is the small 16g a better turbo then the evoIII @ say 18 psi? They are both in their effiency range but the evoIII has a larger comp wheel so wouldn't the evoIII make more power as the larger wheel would be doing less work, creating less heat giving you a cooler intake charge & more power? I'm confused
 
RoasT BeeF said:
The Evo 16g is one of the most effiecient turbos out there for its size and price. It is hard to compare with anything else. Nobody ever said there was anything wrong with using a bigger turbo, but there is a hell of a lot more to it than just slapping one on and expecting to run a fast time. This is proven by some of the times put down using the smaller turbos. I like how alot of people think they need a bigger turbo only to see them bolt a 50 trim on and run 13's.

yea, of its SIZE and PRICE. that doesnt mean its an efficient turbo to run 11s. it is efficient enough for 12s and can be made to run 11s but the average guy cant run 11s with a 16g.:talon:
 
daren_p said:
I was sort of wondering the same. How is the small 16g a better turbo then the evoIII @ say 18 psi? They are both in their effiency range but the evoIII has a larger comp wheel so wouldn't the evoIII make more power as the larger wheel would be doing less work, creating less heat giving you a cooler intake charge & more power? I'm confused
This is a fine question. I will guess the answer lies in the gray areas & between the boost map comparisons. And tuning. "Better" may be the wrong word though.
 
Stoner said:
I am a little confused on these statements. Are you saying that the EVO3B16g will only out perform a small 16g when boost is above 25psi? And that the small 16g will make more power and produce better overall performance at any boost level below that?

Is this a theory on paper or do you have real world performance figures to back it up? I am in no way trying to discredit you, just trying to understand.

From my experience and the experience of others the EVO3 is the best in the 16g lineup and has proven itself on a dyno and at the track. I dont know of many if any cars making close to 400 whp or going 11's on a small 16g but that doesnt necessarily mean anything.


I'm a little confused as well because at the same boost levels the Evo would flow more air. I think that for the small price differences in the various 16g turbos, the Evo would be the logical choice because of its ability to flow more air, the larger compressor wheel, the lighter rotating assembly, and the better quality turbine housing. Not to mention that if someone were not to use an Evo to its full potential, they would have room to grow with it...i.e. capable of higher boost levels later on down the road without getting tremendously out of its efficiency range like a smaller turbo would.
 
Guys, guys! the turbos ability to flow a certain amount of lbs/min has nothing to do with how much your engine will consume of that air the turbo can deliver, if the PSI is the same. There is one exception. I will get to that in a bit.

First, get the bigger-wheel-can-boost-higher-efficiently junk out of your head. This may or may not be. A bigger wheel can deliver more air at the same boost as a smaller. Whether or not your engine setup can accept said flow is why you need to tune other components in your build, not just the turbo.

Here's the deal. A particular turbo can flow 30 lbs/min at 15 psi and another w/ a larger wheel can flow 40 lbs/min at 15 psi. Just because each of these turbos flow at thier respective measurement does not mean that the engine is capable of accepting such flow from the turbo. At 15 psi, your setup may only accept 25 lbs/min. If you want it to accept more (make more horsepower), you have to turn the boost up over the 15 psi control amount. Why have a turbo that flows at 30 lbs/min, if your setup may be only capable of handling 15 psi and can only flow 25 lbs/min at such a boost level (4g63s are not like this; but I'm simplifying here)? A SMALL 16g is perfect for stock cams, stock intake mani, stock head and valves, and a stock rev limit up to 18-20 psi (perhaps this is one reason why MHI built this turbo. Many are in the market for a turbo that can deliver perfection at this level)... Getting the evo3 will do nothing to increase your flow at the same psi all the way up to 25 psi... If you never build to handle that, then why waste your time with a less efficient turbo, based on the compressor maps. The evo3 shines when you add a set of cams, when you add a Sheet metal Intake Manifold, etc. Thigs that increase FLOW without you increasing the boost. Because, as mentioned, the EVO3 is no more efficient (actually less) than the SMALL 16g until you get to 25+ psi. All it gives you is more air when your engine demands it, up to approximately 25 psi. After 25 psi is the exception that i mentioned . . .

The exception: compressor efficiency. If two turbos are both set at 20 psi and one is at 75% efficiency at that point and the other is at 60% efficiency at that point the the one with higher efficiency flows more air. But, not much more (1-2 lbs/min at the most). It makes for less detonation; that is the real advantage!!! You can get away with this boost level because the turbo isn't heating the air up as much as the SMALL 16g at this same level. It is not because it flows much more air at this level. You have to retard timing so much and run so much richer with the SMALL 16g at above 25 psi. You get the gains from tunign these variables with the EVO3 at 25 psi versus the SMALL 16G. But ANY other "bigger" turbo does better with these variables at this same PSI.

In summary, an evo3 is better than a SMALL 16g for an engine that will demand more air than an engine with stock cams, stock intake mani, stock head components (higher rev limit), etc. If you plan on upgrading 2 of these three, then the EVO is a better choice than the SMALL. The EVO can keep the boost at the set pressure all the way to 25+ psi with the additional demands from the engine. But at this point a turbo bigger than the evo is better than the evo. So that is why I believe the SMALL 16g is a good upgrade for a stock turbo and ANOTHER turbo is an upgrade to the SMALL 16g.

Bottem line:

1. If you plan on running more than 39 lbs/min (usually around 400 crank horsepower; this will take some math and aftermarket hardware) at under 25 psi, get an evo3 (if you HAVE to have a 16g variant).
2.If you plan on running more than 25 psi, get an evo3 (don't overrev a small 16g).​

For option 1: If you want that much power there are more efficient turbos that have PROVEN to deliver with ease in tune on even pump gas at this level, i.e. 50-trim, 20g, etc. The evo3 is a good idea if spool time is a primary concern like circuit racing, rally, etc.

For option 2: Many, many turbos flow more and are more efficient and spin at lower rpms at this boost for the same prince or not much more. If you choose a turbo that costs more, remember that you'll save money in the long run, because it will last longer than the evo3 because the evo3 is reving at up to 2 times more than another choice that is ideal for the 25+ psi range.

Ok... my fingers hurt. Later.
 
I know i am not adding anything technical to this thread, but i've read this one front to back and I would like to thank dsm-onster and all the others for taking numbers and flow charts and breaking turbo sizing down to a simplified level in which any newb or tuner thats been around for a while, but doesn't quite understand the whole turbo sizing thought process. I know speaking from my experience that the s16g has been very nice at the 18psi I am putting to it right now on the street. Reading this just helps to justify why when i blew my 14b (i was mostly stock ) I might have regretted getting that 20g a few years back before I had many mods done (and little or no experience). Thanks again. :talon:
 
good post man, i actually understood the differences.:thumb: im still not sure what to get, i wanna run a fast 1/4 mile time but on pump, and i know the 50 trim is supposed to be a pump gas king, but there are way too many people running just 12's on a 50 trim. you can do 12's with a 16g, for god sake you can do it on the 14b. i have been readin a lot on turbos, and which one to get, i just want to get a very reliable turbo, like the evo 3 16g, but one that flows more, a 20g is very tempting, but to many others flow more, and it almost flows as much as the evo 3 16g at a higher price. bottom line is i am not sure, here i was wanting the evo 3 16g only to have my dreams crushed, LOL j/k, but in all seriousness i am just not sure yet, but it would be very cool to run 11's in my 14b, you never know.
thanks for the help guys
 
91-gsx said:
good post man, i actually understood the differences.:thumb: im still not sure what to get, i wanna run a fast 1/4 mile time but on pump, and i know the 50 trim is supposed to be a pump gas king, but there are way too many people running just 12's on a 50 trim. you can do 12's with a 16g, for god sake you can do it on the 14b. i have been readin a lot on turbos, and which one to get, i just want to get a very reliable turbo, like the evo 3 16g, but one that flows more, a 20g is very tempting, but to many others flow more, and it almost flows as much as the evo 3 16g at a higher price. bottom line is i am not sure, here i was wanting the evo 3 16g only to have my dreams crushed, LOL j/k, but in all seriousness i am just not sure yet, but it would be very cool to run 11's in my 14b, you never know.
thanks for the help guys

YOU CAN DO IT! :rocks: It's not about boost. It's about flow.

14b 1/4 times w/ 12.XX or better:


This insures that a 12 second 14b is entirely possible.

However, I do not condone over-revving and consequently destrying a perfectly fine turbo that should be kept in its sweet spot instead and have a long, happy, fruitful life. If not on your car then someone elses. Sell a good turbo instead of blowing up a small turbo.
 
18-20psi is very nice on the 14b, with a good launch, that should net me a 12 sec timeslip. but what i really want to do is run something like 30* of timing. this way the turbo is not pushed to hard and the rest of my power comes from timing. i am not planning on getting cams, but i have seen others pull off 11's without them so it is possible. the way i will get to run such high timing is with water/alcohol injection. some weight reduction, and some hell of good driving, and just maybe i can get that 11 sec timeslip.
 
91-gsx said:
18-20psi is very nice on the 14b, with a good launch, that should net me a 12 sec timeslip. but what i really want to do is run something like 30* of timing. this way the turbo is not pushed to hard and the rest of my power comes from timing. i am not planning on getting cams, but i have seen others pull off 11's without them so it is possible. the way i will get to run such high timing is with water/alcohol injection. some weight reduction, and some hell of good driving, and just maybe i can get that 11 sec timeslip.

Sounds like a plan to me. I think you're headed down the right path. It makes sense to me.
 
dsm-onster said:
Sounds like a plan to me. I think you're headed down the right path. It makes sense to me.

i just realized you have water injection, do you inject water or alcohol and what percentage to fuel do you run? what kind of gains have you logged, like timing boost and such?
thanks for the help
 
dsm-onster, I understand more about what you are saying. I was assuming you meant with mods being equal and not being limited to no cams, intake manifold, porting etc. that the small 16g would outperform the EVO up to 25psi. I would agree that on a basically stock car a small 16g would be a better choice at first but on a well modded car the EVO is the best choice of the Mitsu turbos.

I also agree that there are many other turbos out there that will out perform the EVO for making >400hp but its nice to accomplish things with smaller stock appearing turbos. Plus the thread was just compairing the Mitsu lineup.

Thanks for clarifying.
 
Stoner said:
dsm-onster, I understand more about what you are saying. I was assuming you meant with mods being equal and not being limited to no cams, intake manifold, porting etc. that the small 16g would outperform the EVO up to 25psi. I would agree that on a basically stock car a small 16g would be a better choice at first but on a well modded car the EVO is the best choice of the Mitsu turbos.

I also agree that there are many other turbos out there that will out perform the EVO for making >400hp but its nice to accomplish things with smaller stock appearing turbos. Plus the thread was just compairing the Mitsu lineup.

Thanks for clarifying.

Oh, absolutely. This is my opinion too. An evo3 is the best choice of the three 16g vaiants where one wants a stealth, stock look. Or when one wants the quickest spool they can get without going to special variable turbine housings or other expensive technology. And, antilag is so hard on the turbo that it becomes expensive real quick, too. A note about spool: many guys running the TD05H (not TD06H) 20g have commented on the very quick spool and a few have said that there was no noticable difference when upgrading from a 16g.

But then you're getting away from the stock look. Unless you go with the bastard 20g:thumb: . But the EVO3 is cheaper.

I say if you don't plan on going over 400 crank horsepower in the future and you want a stealth look and are intemidated by 25+ psi get the evo3. Many of us fall in this category. Increase flow and you're set. No need for a huge intercooler as you're not compressing the air so much (under 25 psi). The evo3 will always be a popular choice as it gives up some efficiency for flow.
 
this is all very interesting. i am learning a lot, i understand the part about getting bigger cams and smim for better flow, which in turn equals more power. i would like to run 11's though without upgrading cams, but i would like to upgrade the intake manifold, it made a huge difference in my 96 dodge neon when i made a intake manifold for it, use to rev that thing to about 8000 rpms, sohc 2.0. 4" plenum..LOL. anyway, cams would be nice but not just yet.
thanks for the help stoner and dsm-onster, this is really helpful.

A note about spool: many guys running the TD05H (not TD06H) 20g have commented on the very quick spool and a few have said that there was no noticable difference when upgrading from a 16g.
sorry man i am not trying to bash but can you reword this, it is kind of confusing. are you saying that the majority of people that go with the tdo5h 20g say that it is a noticeable upgrade from the 16g? another thing is that i would love to run over 25psi, hell i did it on the 14b before it blew because of boost creep, lots of it. i dont mind lag either, so the tdo6h would be my choice. im just not sure yet, what is the average gain say from moving from a 14b at 20psi, to an evo 3 16g at 20psi? just an estimate i know there is no way to able to tell because of the tune and such but i just wanted an estimate. then lets say, what is the difference between a evo3 16g at 20psi and a 20g at 20psi?
thanks for all you help,
later
 
91-gsx said:
this is all very interesting. i am learning a lot, i understand the part about getting bigger cams and smim for better flow, which in turn equals more power. i would like to run 11's though without upgrading cams, but i would like to upgrade the intake manifold, it made a huge difference in my 96 dodge neon when i made a intake manifold for it, use to rev that thing to about 8000 rpms, sohc 2.0. 4" plenum..LOL. anyway, cams would be nice but not just yet.
thanks for the help stoner and dsm-onster, this is really helpful.

Keep in mind that a 1G head/1G intake mani combo is ver good up top with just a set of cams. You'll get more power from a set of cams than you will from an intake mani upgrade. Upgraded cams make an intake mani upgrade a worthwhile purchase.

91-gsx said:
sorry man i am not trying to bash but can you reword this, it is kind of confusing. are you saying that the majority of people that go with the tdo5h 20g say that it is a noticeable upgrade from the 16g?

Sure. What I'm saying is that almost all of the guys upgrading from a 16g to a TDO5H 20G feel no noticable difference in spool time between the two. The significantly larger compressor of the 20g does not contribute to lag very much and spools the same as the much smaller evo3 wheel. Spool time is primarily a function of the turbine wheel and/or the turbine housing area/radius (a/r) ratio. Since a TDO5H 20G has the same hotside as a TDO5H EVOIII 16G, the spool difference is negligible.

But, of course, the 20g can deliver more air at a lower psi if your engine demands it. Or, it can run a higher boost more efficiently and without beating itself to death to do it.

91-gsx said:
i dont mind lag either, so the tdo6h would be my choice.

Good! Lag=power

91-gsx said:
im just not sure yet, what is the average gain say from moving from a 14b at 20psi, to an evo 3 16g at 20psi? just an estimate i know there is no way to able to tell because of the tune and such but i just wanted an estimate. then lets say, what is the difference between a evo3 16g at 20psi and a 20g at 20psi?
thanks for all you help,
later

14B @ 20 psi=> lots of knock unless you retard your timing.
EVO3 @ 20 psi=> less knock so you can roll in more timing and lean out more. This is where you get your power from here.
20G @ 20 psi=> waste of a good turbo. No more power than evo3 as evo3 is just as efficient at this boost
EVO3 @ 25+ psi=> lots of knock unless you retard your timing.
20G @ 25+ psi=> less knock so you can roll in more timing and lean out more. This is where you get your power from here too.
 
DSM-monster,I have all the supporting mods to run a 16g.If I dont plan on putting in cams,smim for awhile,would it be a waste to buy the evo3.Or would a s16g make just as much power since I dont have cams or a smim.
 
fwdeclipse said:
DSM-monster,I have all the supporting mods to run a 16g.If I dont plan on putting in cams,smim for awhile,would it be a waste to buy the evo3.Or would a s16g make just as much power since I dont have cams or a smim.

With the big price drop in the evoIII might as well go with it, since it has more potential. You may not see that much difference over the small 16g at first, but when you add some more mods or want to turn up the boost you'll be glad you went evoIII. Because of the lighter comp wheel on the evoIII, even though its a larger diameter then the small 16g you will end up with very similar spool times.

91-gsx, I would go cams before intake mani. A smim is a good upgrade but you won't see near the potential you could as the stock cams will already be the limiting factor on how much air your engine will accept. Theres no point in trying to put in more air if theres nowhere for it to go.
 
fwdeclipse said:
DSM-monster,I have all the supporting mods to run a 16g.If I dont plan on putting in cams,smim for awhile,would it be a waste to buy the evo3.Or would a s16g make just as much power since I dont have cams or a smim.

I'm not going to answer that:D .

What are your goals?
Buy once. If you get a small 16g now and you know you will be upgrading cams and smim in the future then I'd feel like it was a waste.

What cams are you going for? What kind of power band do you want. No sense in getting a SMIM with 264s or FP1s or FP1Xs as they hit earlier and peak out under 7000 rpms. From the results of the tests done a while back on SMIMs, they only really benefit by letting the horsepower graph keep climbing as you go higher in rpms. Am I correct guys? It's been a ehile since I saw that post.

After you have chosen your power ban preference and consequently a cam to match then you can say what turbo you will ultimately need.

If you got some cash burning a hole in your pocket and the boost bug has bit you too hard, then you're like meLOL . The SMALL 16g is less likely to knock than the evo3 at 20 psi. The SMALL 16g is better for stock cams, intake, head, and you don't need a huge intercooler to get some impressive numbers. But if you get an EVO3 you can upgrade the cams, intake, head and get probably 30-35 more horsepower with the upgrades han with a SMALL 16G, exactly like daren_p said. The EVO3 is more versatile.

1. So do you want perfection now and, when you want to upgrade, do it all at once for another level and make it perfect then too? (SMALL 16G)

2. Or do you want something that will keep delivering with more and more mods becasue of it's versatility, then pick another turbo last to finish the equation? (EVO3 16G)

I chose the first because I wanted to save my money up and do it all at once but i really wanted some fun now. But many choose the second because they like to spend a little bit at a time.
 
91-gsx said:
i just realized you have water injection, do you inject water or alcohol and what percentage to fuel do you run? what kind of gains have you logged, like timing boost and such?
thanks for the help

I have used just straight h2o and also h2o/isopropyl (65% h2o, 35% iso). I needed a larger jet when running the mix, but it is winterized. Isopropynol (rubbing alchohol) is cheap and sold at walmart, roses, walgreens, etc in 1 quart containers (4 quarts = 1 gal). And, it is usually sold tax free in states that charge a sales tax:thumb: . The state thinks you're using it for medicinal purposes:p . It is usually in a 70/30 mix with water (30% water). 1 gal oF this and one gal or water makes a 65% h2o and 35% iso mix. Use distilled water as you may clog your nozzles.

Ran setups on my T-bird TC, my fathers hot air GN (no intercooler), my dsm and my wifes turbo 5s-fe camry (hella-sleeper).

You'll want a nozzle or set of nozzles that will inject 15% to 25% of the maximum fuel rate you're set up will be using. RSR Water Injection Calculator. Also read the p!$$ out of this site. It is amazing. Just don't be fooled into thinking that you need to buy a kit to have a quality, reliable kit. Hint: Napa usually stocks hobbs switches for $30 (this mostlikely is all the injection control you need).

Water injection FAQs

Basic setup:

Proper Sureflow pump
Fuel injection hose and clamps
Tank
Hobbs switch (activates pump when a certain boost threshold is met)
Proper check valve (i suggest a 5 psi "crack pressure")
Electrical wire
Properly sized nozzle

I took this exact setup above off one car that ran it for 2 years and have been running it on my dsm for almost 2 years now.

Set up can be wired directly to your car battery as the pump is only on when you're boosting past your set boost threshold.
 
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