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RedTurboEclipse

20+ Year Contributor
5,613
41
Jul 29, 2002
Bay Area, California
My simple setup.

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Nothing too crazy.

jvc KDLH910 (4v 4ch rca output, w/seperate nonfading subwoofer output all going to amps)
Soundstream 6.5 midbass speakers up front
1" silkdome tweeters on the dash
passive crossovers
alpine r-series 6x9 coaxials in the rear
12" dvc sub wired 2ohm load in sealed box
lightning audio 4 channel amp to power the speakers (50x4 rms)
mtx 4250d mono amp to power the sub (350watt rms x1 @ 2ohm load)
2 farad cap
4 gauge wire from battery to rear where it is split to 2 8 gauges for each amp

and a little nice custom addition:

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its the power inverter to hook up my laptop for dsmlink, or any other device. one input on the main unit, and another one where the cup holder use to be, alone with a/v inputs. which is hooked up to my deck (no video, but video ready if I ever decide to upgrade).

I will post pics of the setup on the beater GSX later.
 
My simple setup.

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Nothing too crazy.

jvc KDLH910 (4v 4ch rca output, w/seperate nonfading subwoofer output all going to amps)
Soundstream 6.5 midbass speakers up front
1" silkdome tweeters on the dash
passive crossovers
alpine r-series 6x9 coaxials in the rear
12" dvc sub wired 2ohm load in sealed box
lightning audio 4 channel amp to power the speakers (50x4 rms)
mtx 4250d mono amp to power the sub (350watt rms x1 @ 2ohm load)
2 farad cap
4 gauge wire from battery to rear where it is split to 2 8 gauges for each amp

and a little nice custom addition:

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its the power inverter to hook up my laptop for dsmlink, or any other device. one input on the main unit, and another one where the cup holder use to be, alone with a/v inputs. which is hooked up to my deck (no video, but video ready if I ever decide to upgrade).

I will post pics of the setup on the beater GSX later.


I have the same head unit, and the same power inverter ;D
The inverter isn't mounted in my eclipse though... It's still in the 01 Stratus R/T ;X
I'll try and get pics, I'm running 2 12's. Nice clean setup though! Is the cargo net because you dont want to screw the box down to the spare cover?

Chris.
 
Well here is some pics from my beater 95 gsx, I went super duper cheap on this setup. But I did not cheap out on the quality of the installation. Cheap stuff can sound good. LETS NOT TURN THIS THREAD INTO BRAND NAME BASHING.

Pics of the wiring:

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Power wires run down the side, no subwoofer/sub amp yet, but the wiring is already there and an easy install if I ever decide to get it.

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This is my beater and need all the space because I toss crap in here left and right, so no bling bling stuff like on my other GSX. So the amp went under the passenger seat, as you can see some stuff had to be hacked.

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Aux input wire for mp3 players, etc in glove box.

Like I said this is a beater and I put all cheap parts, but installation was not at least I don't think so haha.

Boss 6.5" components up front (1" dome tweeters in dash, xovers)
Blaupunkt 3-way 6x9s in rear
roadmaster vr3 4channel amplifier powering the speakers (50watt rms x4)
H&B deck (usb/sd input, shows station info and traffic info) (4 channel rca output and separate sub output, all connected to external amp(s))
Scosche 3002 2 channel amp for sub (265 rms @ 4ohm bridged)
Sony XS-L121P5 12" subwoofer
8gauge wiring for 4ch amp and future sub amp. cheap flea market wiring kit.

Big difference, in parts, but it sounds pretty darn good. The total above probably only cost <$200, all brand new (the 12" sony sub is an extra I already had). I just need to buy a box, but since I don't plan on removing the spare tire and the plastic things that lift the false floor like I did on the other GSX, a regular 12" sealed box will be too tall unless the hatch lid is removed, and I don't plan to do that as it will expose the junk in my trunk. I am currently looking for a deep slanted box, with max height of 12 1/2".

The labor though, man, I probably did a better job on this then on my "nicer" setup on the other GSX. I turn it up pretty loud and people have been surprised by my budget system. I wasn't too skeptical of the product brands I purchased, I had a budget and a goal of what I wanted to do: cheap no name crap. Everything has exceeded my expectations.
 
Yea I used the cargo net as a ghetto way to hold the sub in place. IT DOES A VERY VERY GOOD JOB. Not to mention it looks pretty clean haha. If you guys have your cargo net still, just flip it upside down, opening end on the bottom, make it go over the sub, then hook all 4 corners.
 
Yea I used the cargo net as a ghetto way to hold the sub in place. IT DOES A VERY VERY GOOD JOB. Not to mention it looks pretty clean haha. If you guys have your cargo net still, just flip it upside down, opening end on the bottom, make it go over the sub, then hook all 4 corners.

I've heard/done several setups on 2gs, I started writing a little guide to help some people, it's not quite complete, and it doesn't get too technical, because I just do this for fun.

http://s88280493.onlinehome.us/guides/2gdsmaudio.htm

;) I got ghetto with my brackets. I used 6 L brackets. 4 (one each side) to hold the box down, I'm going to make a fiberglass box and replace the spare cover soon anyways ;D. The other two[brackets] hold a carpeted MDF board[w/ amp and cap] at an angle like [sub] \ [amp]. I didn't mount to the seats because there are already large holes (not tapped either) in them from a previous owner. Also, the amp has a heatsink/fan and does not like to be almost upsidown [the angle of the back of the rear seats.].

It'll all get better when I get to making the fiberglass box. ;D

Chris.
 
Post pics xXaTaxX

Here is another general interior pic, older turbo timer and ebc at the time.

I will post pics soon. I went to a meet today and then went to work, now one of our 26ft trucks' starter isn't engaging the crank ;X. So i'm here rushing to find an alternate truck. I'll take pics before I go on my way home ;D


Chris.
 
Heres my set up..
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The headunit/screen is actually for a computer.. See my carputer thread near the bottom of this forum(appearance).
Its a 7" touch screen. I am currently designing my own User interface (I did not write the software, just creating the look/feel)
It does GPS, DVD, video, MP3 etc.. Also used for Data logging (Using a USB OBDII cable with a software called Evo Scan)
For audio it actually connects to the AUX in of an old pioneer deck (to lazy to rewire speakers to power off an amp)
I also have a 10" JL Audio 10W08, powered off some cheap amp.
Audio wise its nothing fancy, but the computer portion i think is kinda cool ;)

edit: I also dont have any pictures of it running yet, but I hope tog et pictures, and videos with it in use as soona s i get my car running..
Oh, and dont ask to see the trunk.. its just a pipe of wires, computer case, and sub all messy :p
 
This is not my car...I repeat...NOT MY CAR LOL but it is one my favorite DSM's...long gone though.
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Ill post mine when I get my car all back together and cleaned up...its depressing just sitting out there in the back driveway.
 
Here is another install I did on my uncle's GS-T.

When he purchased the car, it came with a Pioneer deck, and I noticed the previous owner had a sub, but removed it when it was put for sale. The sub wiring was there. However it was ghetto rigged. A Line Level Converter was used to make an RCA signal for the amp we purchased for the sub. It was tapped into the rear speakers line, from the factory amp harness.

He had some expensive speakers in there. The fronts had Infinity Kappa 652.5i (6.5 2 ways) and Infinity Kappa 693.5i (6x9 3 ways) in the rear. The rears had a deep mounting depth, and it couldn't be mounted because of that, so it was just chillin in the hole. Also the wiring was ghetto rigged, and the speaker wires were just shoved into the stock harness.

The speakers were being powered by the stock AMP via the MITAH adapter. An ok setup for anybody who doesn't really care about sound, but whats some more bump. We couldn't pass up a deal on this cheap 2 channel amp though. 80 watts x 2 @ 4ohms.

So away I go to redo the entire thing.

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The old way it was wired, because of the LOC (line out converter) was tapped to the rear speakers, you could not really fine tune the subwoofer amp. It was always loud no matter what. The Pioneer deck only has 4 channel rca output, with no seperate subwoofer output.

So what I did, since the new amp we got was a 2 channel. I had that AMP power the front speakers/tweeters. The Infinity Kappa speakers he has are 2-ways but since they are the nice ones, has an external passive x-over, just like components. So the old way he was running quad tweeters because of those in the 2ways and again in the dash speakers. So what I did was just make use of the midbass on those 2ways, and had the included x-over to output the highs to the tweeters in the dash. Like a component setup. Also Because the built in xover is in the stock amp, this was the only way he would get dash tweeters.

Now at first, I left the LOC in place for the signal for the sub amp. I rather have more control over the sub amp. I prefer quality, and this old way wasn't providing that. Seeing as the rear speakers are mostly for rear fill, I used the rear rca outs from the deck as the signal for the sub amp.

So what did I do about the rears? I got y adapters, split the front, and remember there is a MITAH adapter in place. so I connected the split signal to the rear set of rcas of the Mitah adapter, having the stock amplifier powering the rear speakers. I could now better control the sub amp, and the SQ went up tremendously. I cannot fade from rear to front on the deck because of the y split, but its a sacrifice I had to make based on the equipment present, for better sound quality IMO. It also isn't too bad because the fronts still over power the rear fill speakers, just due to the nature of the aftermarket amp and being able to adjust it. Which how it should be with the sound stage.

I cleaned up the wiring, properly mounted the rear 6x9s so they don't shake anymore. Had to bang the fender well a little bit. Properly tapped them into the wiring. No longer needing the LOC for the sub signal.

Nothing beats real components up front though. I will never buy 2-3 way coax for the fronts. Even just using the midbass part of the 2way as I did above, doesn't compare to a dedicated midbass speaker in a component set.
 
Any one have some simple, light weight soltions to stiffen the rear hatch floor? with out the spare tire it feels like its going to cave in..
 
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