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shit, advanced tuners please help

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eclipse93b

20+ Year Contributor
129
0
Oct 7, 2002
Edina, Minnesota
okay, so i posted befor about "wtf car dies" or something like that. i thought i had a boost leak but i wasnt sure, and ive been super busy with school, and 2 jobs, and the gf. so i havnt had time to check for leaks. well i was heading to work today and then i turned on my blinker [turning left] and it was hauling ass on the gauge cluster, so i was like wtf, then i saw the reflection in another car and my left blinker wasnt even working, but it worked earlier that day. then i went to work from 5 to 1030 and i started the car and it was idiling really low at like 500 rmp. Then i boosted to like 8 lbs and after that i pushed the clutch to come to the stop and the cars rpms dropped super fast and the car died. when i was going like 20mph!!! then i started it back up and it did that like 5 more times on the way home. i wonder if its the ecu. what is happening??? any help would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking it might be the spark plug/ wires too, because they look decrepid alittle. thanks again

kyle- :dsm:
 
okay i forgot to metion something too. when i first start the car USUALLY when its running fine the turbo [14b] spools to 14 lbs by second gear. and when i run the car for alittle while, it will only run to like 7 at most and then like after the car dies/is having probs, then runs fine later during the same drive it wont spool for shit. what is the reason for this??? i am getting a new turbo soon, but is it b/c the turbo is a) boost leaks. b)dying c) something i havnt thought of that youd like to share with me.
thanks again : )
kyle-
 
The only time I've had troubles with RPM's dropping and the car stalling was the beginnings of a spun bearing, also I've read that the O2 sensors can contribute to loss of RPMs when at idle, that is after the car has warmed (5 minutes of running or 600 degrees in the exhaust manifold). Your basic Haynes Repair Manual (around $20) can tell you how to check all 3 Oxygen sensors (around $120 each to replace) with a voltmeter (around $15) all of this can be found (or ordered) at an Auto Zone or Pep Boys.

In my opinion...
Change oil and watch for any metal shavings (seen as discoloration in the oil) Ive read that if the color grey its off the crank and if they appear bronze or copper its off the piston. Mine was a small amount of grey sludge, the crank.

I know this is a basic thing but thats the only thing I could suggest from personal experience. GOOD LUCK!
:thumb: :dsm:
 
a REALLY clogged fuel filter could cause the dieing. i think it is something fuel related. either the fuel filter, the o2 sensors, or pump, or injectors. it sounds like when the car is cold it runs fine, but something is causing knock, which is causing the timing to be pulled which is in turn only allowing you to boost to 7 psi when warm. do you have a logger to log the car to see knock or timing?
 
turn up the biss screw, (basic idle sensor screw) it is under a black plastic plug on youre throttle body, any time you increase the amount of air going into the car and stuff, it will idle funny, just turn it up a couple nothces and see if it fixes the problem
 
A leaking intake manifold can cause the car to die when the clutch is pushed in. Once I blew off a vac. hose from my intake manifold, and the car was ideling funny, and would die like that. check your PCV line, and your vac. line that activates your BOV. Also there is the gasket that seals the two halves (upper, and lower) of your intake manifold together. If that is leaking, you should be able to hear, or even feel it leaking at idle.
 
thanks for the help. ill check for the possible probs. anymore suggestions? thanks again for the help.

i dont have a pocket logger yet, im getting one within the week.
thanks again

kyle
 
The ISC is under the throttle body elbow, it has a wire harness going to it. The BISS is the big screw right on the top/front of the throttle body.

Pressure test the damn thing!
 
Check the throttle body for carbon build up.
make sure that all the vac. ports at the TB are not clogged.
Two of mine were completely clogged and a shorted
ISC motor which shorted out my ECU.
Took two more ECUs to figure it out, but its ok now.


If i'm not mistaking your car only has one O2 sensor.
U can get them from NOPI for like $60
 
no im not venting to the atmosphere. LOL i checked it out after school today. so i turned the biss screw up, and set the rpm at idle to 850. also i checked all of the vac hoses to make sure there on and low and behold i was looking at the blow off valve and it hit me! so i took off the bov from the intake pipe and the intercooler pipe. so as soon as i took it off there was WATER!!!! in the pipe in the bov too! : ( so i cleaned the hell outa it and then i found that a hose that goes to it wasnt connected at all!! so i put it back on and then i ran the car again and it ran like a champ!!! im still gonna do a vac leak test this weekend too. cause im still running only like 7 lbs after i have the mbc set at 14. it runs 14 when cold, but after like 10 min it doesnt boost as high. thanks for all your help you guys : ) i will post again with the results of the vac leaks.

thanks again : )
kyle-
 
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