The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

SHE'S BACK!!! Finally

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nh98gsx

20+ Year Contributor
109
0
Feb 8, 2003
about a month ago my crank pulley separated, causing my ac belt to break, it then worked its way behind the timing belt cover wraped itself around the crankspindle jumping the timming and kaboom.
I finally got to see the valves today and in #2,3,4 all the rods were bent in number 1 cyl. one of the exahust valves had snapped right where the valve stem starts the valve head then embedded itself in the top of the block, i could even budge it.
Any way after much consideration i went w/a completely rebuilt ATK motor and there is a recommended 500 mile break in period, should i not put my intake and BOV (injen and turboxs H34) back on till after the break in?
It is good to be mobile.
 
You can still break it in with the goodies, just dont boost hard, maybe rev it up to about 4500rpm once every day, other than that keep it low inbetween 2500rpm and 3500rpm with no boost, but make sure you boost it about once a day, and dont run synthetic right off the bat either.
 
thanks for the advise, i forgot my camera today but i'm going back before they send it out so i should have some pic's soon.
is moble 1 ok after after the first 500 miles?
 
I'm sure plenty of people will disagree with me, but run it like you intend too. If it's going to break then it will break regardless. Just give it the proper start up break-in. Shut it down let cool, retighten things that need it, check all belts and make sure you have NO leaks. Just don't crank the boost up because it is going to react different than your old engine so you'll have to retune it. Oh yeah give it an oil change within that 500 miles and cut the oil filter apart to see inside. If the engine has problems you'll see them. PM me if you need any other help.
 
make sure to use detergent oil first couple miles. its piss oil but it helps your cylinder walls and everything in the block (so ive been told). dont use synthetic until maybe 10-150000 miles. motor wont like oils being switched so early. do 2 WOT runs on the detergent oil change it to regular than just drive normal daily driving do a couple easy redline revs on the motor but not WOT then change the oil at 500 miles beat on it a lil harder than daily driving change at 1000 miles and then enjoy. the detergent oil you can find at auto zone.
 
you should of seen me today on the highway going 50 mph i had 18 wheelers towing houses passing me.
i ve brought the boost up slightly but no WOT, iam still afrade i'll f it up.
i cant wait till i have 1000 miles on the f-er.
 
You should also vary the speed when you drive. Don't just go exactly 50 MPH when on the highway. You want to put varying amounts of load on the engine.

Basicly:

Use dino oil for the first few hundred miles.
No WOT runs to redline.
Minimize boost but the occasional quick burst is fine.
Vary speeds on the highway.
That's about it.

A properly built engine can pretty much go ball to the wall out of the crate.

You also might want to cut aprt the first oil filter that went on. Just to make sure the shop did a good job cleaning the block befrore assembly. You want to look for bits of metal and other crud. You don't have to, I would just to make sure the shop did a good job.
 
i have heard that a couple of times now, to cut open the filter, i do plan do doing that, i've check the oil and it is so clear that i can hardly see it, is that the dyno oil that your talking about?
 
Clear oil is a good thing, but you never know what the filter has picked up in the process.

Dino oil.. regular oil, the nonsynthetic kind ;)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto STM Tuned

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Parts
    Transmission starter plate fits 2G DSM 7bolt engine for Auto AWD or FWD and FWD Manual...
    • Dsm_canadian_mike
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g coil pack
    Used 1g (91-94) coil pack and bracket. One stud to mount the harness is broken, but still has...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 OEM Balance Shaft Delete Kit
    OEM Balance Shaft Delete Kit $40 + shipping and PayPal fees* includes crank spacerYou must...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Evo viii fuel pump
    Used Denso Evo 8 fuel pump. Similar flow to the Walbro 190. Plug n play for 2G's. Been...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Hatch Weather Seal ( no rips or tears )
    2G Hatch Weather Seal $45 + shipping and PayPal fees* no rips or tearsYou must be...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top