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I fixed it!

So previously the alternator was only putting out around 12 volts no matter the rpm. I played around with F and L wires, but that didn't fix anything. Then I stumbled across a post of a suzuki forum mentioning that the CS 120 alts (Saturn alts) required a ground wire to the ground stud. The Jay Racing kit I had, I assumed would ground the case. So I double checked with my multi-meter, and nope. No continuity from the alt case to the ground wire on the battery! I added a #10 wire between the stud and my star ground at the block and viola, 14+ volts at idle! No more E9 errors on the O2 and the car sounds much better!

It's cold out and I'm having difficulty starting the car, with e85. I read I need to increase the enrichment tables? At least 25%, maybe more. I need to read some more and then try again. Also I need to find a good multi gauge set for oil, temp and boost. Most of the gauges I find are Oil, Temp and Pyrometer, so not exactly ideal.

Unfortunately, during the ignition/timing process the engine tried to run backwards a few times and I damaged a section of the flywheel. I'll need to pull my trans and put a new ring on it. It's a brand new Fidanza aluminum wheel too, sigh...
 
I really should take some more recent pics. It's roughly like the one in my profile, but red instead of black.

Just got some heim-joint tensioners from Amazon today and I plan on using them to support the upper half of the intercooler. Pics tomorrow, weather permitting. I need to get to work on the new battery box/hold down too. It will be part of the same structure I think.
 
Small update. I've been trying to get the car to idle below 2000, and am not having much luck. It runs very rough, and for some reason I'm sitting at 30 degrees timing. I need to figure out how to reduce timing advance in MS2. It also has a lot of misfire/lean when accelerating. Despite sitting at 12-13/1 afr. I'm not sure if the Innovate LC2 I have is accounting for e85 or not when it's reading those values? If it is, then I'm plenty rich and if not I'm way lean.
 

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OK more problems. Car really won't idle, and runs really rough. So I checked with a vacuum gauge, and I've got something like 5", obviously bad. I replaced the EGR valve and its gasket, then I sprayed some starter fluid around to see if I could find any other leaks. Didn't find any. Went ahead and did a compression test, for sanity sake, and getting 150 psi cold across the board. So I don't see a major mechanical issue causing this. Also went through MS and correctly set the base timing, I was off about 10 degrees from previous calculation.

One thing that may be causing it, but I'm not sure of, is the plastic thermal isolator between the intake and the head. I didn't install a gasket there, because I assumed the plastic is making the gasket? If it needs a gasket there, then that seems obvious. Then again, the spray test didn't locate anything in that area! I'm really not too sure how to proceed on this problem.

Also put a pic update of the new battery holder I made, yay no more tiny tiny battery.

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Success! The car finally starts and runs reasonably! The cam timing was off by about 30 degrees, probably caused by backfires while setting up the initial ignition timing. I'm sitting at 0 degrees on the intake and about 2.5 degrees retard on the exhaust cam.

I'm waiting for my new IACV to show up then I'll start actually tuning this thing. Should be here tomorrow. Right now it starts easily, and revs but sounds like a miss or something is going on.
 
Alright, I nearly had a heart attack yesterday when I noticed liquid around the#2-#3 exhaust runners. I got a compression/leakdown tester and all 4 cylinders tested within a couple pounds of each other. That's wehn I noticed that my downpipe wasn't really sealing all that well to my Turbo flange. this is the problem with cheaper turbos where the flange lip is slightly too large and a guestimate at the correct flange shape. It doesn't really seal to my 3" JEGS downpipe flange. But that's a minor inconvenience compared to the liquid oil spraying out, the exhaust side seal is compromised. I need a different turbo, and this is a great opportunity to go with something reasonable rather than huge.

Any recommendations? I have a T4 flange and a 3" DP built already, so would like to stay with those basic parameters, but other than that...
 
Oh more progress was made with tuning, before the turbo incident. I got the E85 sensor wired properly so it sends the correct information, as well as changed the O2 sensor specs in Megasquirt to align with the correct O2 sensor. Car actually sounded really good for a bit, until the turbo incident of course.

It's a T76, from CXracing, so a China-charger. the failure is my fault not the turbo's, too much fluid in pan, resulting in inability to drain, blowing the seals. Probably. I don't think I'll have any luck rebuilding the seals, and honestly it's probably just too damn big of a turbo for this engine anyway.
 
Hey I'm not dead. Just been busy starting a business, and working on other projects. I got a precision 62/66 installed and started the car again. Of course the power steering leaked everywhere, so that was its own issue. Anyway.

The car still runs terribly. Timing is jumping all over the place, but I'm not seeing any Synch loss from MS2. I checked injector function, and they're working, but they may be clogged from sitting with E85... I was trying out the car around the neighborhood, and suddenly it backfired, timing jumped a tooth or 2 when that happened. So I reset the cams straight up, and then moved the adjustable exhaust teeth to allow the belt to fit correctly.

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