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Street Build Sharkquest!

Vehicle:
1988 Conquest
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  1. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,274
    598
    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    Can't really help you on the oil pump, maybe return the dnj one and get an orbit pump at the least? Or see if you can get the stock straight gears from STM/JNZ or MAP.

    I remember them ol' 7m days trying to fit the ARPs and BBC valve springs into mine, haha.

    The Supra reminds me of mortal combat 2, a-la SNES, "whoopsie!".

    Tar on the tire, go figure! Best one is snow in the rim or water in the tire during winter. Freezes, causes horrendous vibes, then melts and actually smoothes out completely by the time the customer gets to a tires shop, haha. Seen that a couple times working for Sears Auto back in the day.

    Keep it up! Like that you're busting it out and keeping updated flowing in :thumb:
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  2. DetroitDSM

    DetroitDSM Probationary Member

    28
    13
    Joined Jan 31, 2019
    Southfield, Michigan
    Badass
     

    Drag Race Build 488  3

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · automatic · 2G DSM
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  3. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    Thanks for the positive comments! Ah and I remember playing MK3 Ultimate on the genesis, good times man...

    Alright, got the oil pump figured out. It turns out that the pump doesn't like to rotate without proper support, that is all it was.

    I LIGHTLY rtv'd the oil pump plate, and set the bolts to 12 ftlbs, with loctite. I'm not a fan of paper gaskets and mine was pre-bent for me (stupid packaging). Royal purple assembly lube is inside of the pump for priming/initial startup.
    IMG_20190616_122147544[1].jpg

    Then I did the same to the front case, I think that' what it's called, and set the bolts at 15 ftlbs with loctite again. I had to reuse one or 2 bolts unfortunately.

    IMG_20190616_155008928_HDR[1].jpg

    Oh I ran into this interesting problem, the MM oil pump drive gear is about 1cm too short for the timing belt! Luckily i know a guy about 30 minutes away with plenty of parts.

    IMG_20190616_123918197[1].jpg

    With the correct drive gear and some other parts in place I ended up with the engine like this

    IMG_20190616_172659051[1].jpg

    It must look a bit disconcerting to you transverse guys to see the front motor mount chopped off and the oil filter going the wrong way LOL

    Ah one last thing, it seems the Kiggly crank trigger holder thing is hitting the t-belt tensioner?!:idontknow:

    IMG_20190616_173348348[1].jpg

    I trial fit the Kiggly 12-tooth, and it uh doesn't want to go onto the crank snout. Do I need a press or something? And I still need to cut off one of the teeth, ugh. If there's any of you guys with MS2 knowledge that would be super helpful. I may just have to go to an MS2 forum for this. I am pretty sure I need to remove the tooth that's before the TDC mark, but not 100%.I can adjust the trigger offset in MS, I just know you don't want the tooth that missing to be located at the TDC.

    Oh if you guys see anything obviously wrong/upside down, let me know! :p
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  4. Devilsfutbol17

    Devilsfutbol17 Proven Member

    354
    16
    Joined Jul 27, 2007
    Bellingham, Washington
    Very interesting idea with that RTV on the front case, I've always seen/used a paper gasket there. Also I haven't seen a gasket/rtv used for the oil pump gears cover like you did, usually those just bolt together without a gasket. Don't forget to put your castle plug in behind the oil pump sprocket.
     

    551  3

    1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
    manual · Galant VR-4
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  5. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,274
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    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    After seeing that it worries me a little bit. At most I'd want to see mitsu-bond or another anaerobic sealant used. If any of that rtv gets into the pump gears, it'll be bad news.

    As for the front case + rtv, same thing to a slightly lesser degree. The paper gaskets work very well, especially with copper spray applied.
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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    Devilsfutbol17 likes this.
  6. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    Hmm, I was thinking about the pump gears as I was putting it together. I've always used a thin layer of RTV with paper gaskets to hold them in place. Of course only on one side so that they're easy to remove later. Everything on the Rotary was done this way, with paper and RTV, and it was ok, then again this isn't a rotary. I may just pull it apart, to check what's gone on, and allay any fears.

    My chunk of aluminum showed up! Working on the actual method of boring it out now. My hole saw is only 2-3 inches deep, but I think that will be enough. Maybe not, if so I need to find some sort of cutting tool that isn't depth limited, kinda like a tool used to bore cylinders.

    I ordered a steel -10 bung I'm going to weld into the oil pan, so I'll have an oil drain. It looks like the stock location is near the rear of the engine?
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  7. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,274
    598
    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    Yea I'd at least check the pump gears to make sure no rtv got in there. Usually you'll see paper gaskets or mitsu-bond for the front case, I don't recall ever seeing any form of gasket or sealer on the oil pump (or any other oil pump for that matter) since it messes with the clearance of the gear-to-pump body, affecting longevity and pressure building capabilities.

    Either way can't be to careful to check.

    The stock drain is actually in the front on 4gs, the MM probably has a rear sump like a 22re so I'd assume it's in the rear.

    Forgot, what's the chunk of alloy for?
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  8. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    By front, you mean towards the cam gears? The MM pan has the deepest part towards the gears, which in my case is the front. I assume this was so Mitsu wouldn't have to make different pans for the longitudinal engines vs transverse.

    The alloy is for the water outlet at the back of the head. I just need to cut some big holes in it! Probably this weekend, as this week I'm building the turbo supports for the Supra, and doing some wiring on it as well.
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  9. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,274
    598
    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    Yes this is the same or at least similar to DSM pans, which would be a front sump, closest to the cam gears.

    Ah that's right, good luck with the fabbing!!
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  10. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    Sorry for the delay, I've been working on and off on this car, as well as the Supra, weather and time permitting.

    Here's the 1/2 way done water block, the black stuff is paint I used to make a mark on the block as to where the stud was going to go through:
    IMG_20190623_182724958[1].jpg

    There's 4 holes because I forgot that the water outlet was basically mirrored to what I was trying to do. It's a bit hard to explain, but you'd get it if you saw it. So I needed to make a new hole to line everything up. Interestingly the 45 degree angle actually helps me as it aims the outlet at the frame rail and away from the intake, without needing any fancy stuff now.



    I've also got the crank trigger figured out as well. But it was a nightmare getting it onto the snout! I measured the snout and it came out to 32.2 mm. Isn't it supposed to be 32? Anyway, I measured the Kiggly piece and it came out to 31.98 or so. Obviously we have a problem. I had to sue a puller to get the wheel off the snout after i attempted to push it on, gently! So after about an hour of carefully sanding, and measuring, it fits easily. Now I just need to find a woodruff key, I lost mine somewhere along the line. I also need the dang plug for the back of the head that blocks the Cam position sensor, the parts stores are clueless...

    Oh and any recommendations on the Crank sensor brand? I didn't want to give Kiggly $80 for one, unless there's a good reason.

    Regarding the trigger itself, all I need to do is to remove the tooth that's 90 degrees before the TDC. By before I mean in the clockwise direction, so that the engine sees a missing tooth and then hits TDC 90 degrees later. I can configure it better and closer inside of Tuner Studio, once I have it hooked up. This will let me run a simple batch fire/ignition system. No real big loss of power, just slightly worse emission at idle/less that 2k rpm. From what I read after 2k, most engine are basically squirting the injectors in batch mode anyway.

    Is there any good reason you guys know of to move the oil drain back hole somewhere else on the pan? I figure most turbo manifolds for this engine will have the stock location in mind when placing their turbo. I just don't want to end up having one too low or far away for the drain to easily reach.

    Ah one last thing, I'm going to need to bake my large water block, so that it's closer in temperature to the outlet I'm trying to weld on. the huge difference in mass makes the outlet piece melt quicker than the block, obviously ruining the weld. Once it cools off outside a bit, I'll fire up the oven. Probably this weekend.

    IMG_20190624_191819746_HDR[1].jpg
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  11. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,274
    598
    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    I'd love to see this thing I person once done, gonna be cool! There's actually a conquest for sale close to me I'm contemplating picking up... Lol.

    I don't have alot of help on the other stuff, the cranks sensors/triggers are still a bit out of my wheels house when doing custom.

    Keep it up!
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  12. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    Thanks for the kind words guys. Figured it was time for more updates, I won't be sleeping tonight.

    So I've made a good bit of progress, I know it seems slow, but I'm trying LOL.

    I had a bit of a problem fitting the Kiggly wheel and the ATI damper hub. Both of them required some grinding/machining to fit the crank snout properly. A couple of hours ofheating, test fitting and then sanding eventually resulted in the hub and trigger fitting correctly.

    IMG_20190704_124313335[1].jpg

    The red marks on teh trigger were my way of visualizing which tooth needed to be cut off. It was a bit nerve wracking cutting into a $200 trigger wheel! But I'm pretty sure I've got it figured out. The tooth I cut is 90 degrees before the tooth that the senso would be on when the engine is at TDC. It makes more sense if you see it in person.

    Here's the wheel in a vise, just after I cut the tooth off:

    IMG_20190704_131652086[1].jpg

    As you can see, I've also got the oil pan painted, the oil bung welded in, and pan straightened in installed. I filled the pan with 5 quarts of water, and made sure that the bung location was above the fluid level. Pretty proud of how the weld turned out this time!

    IMG_20190630_122431563[1].jpg

    IMG_20190630_153518300[1].jpg



    So This is a photo of how things sit right now, minus the front cover plastic thing, that I trimmed to clear the water outlet. Looks like I'll need to trim it some more to clear the ATI damper pulley hub as well.

    IMG_20190704_210911161[1].jpg

    I got the motor mounts installed, and I think I'll try to get the engine in the car tomorrow.

    My hydroboost unit showed up yesterday. So far I can see it will need new holes drilled in the firewall, and some thought as to hot to hook it to the pedal. But it looks like it will fit. I may cut the reservoir in half vertically, it's gigantic! Oh and of course I need to buy parts to make it work, stupid thing didn't come with the return spring, nor the rod that connects the hydroboost to the cylinder. it says to reuse the old ones...sigh.

    IMG_20190703_173213987[1].jpg
    Here's a rough of what it looks like in the car

    IMG_20190703_174750514[1].jpg

    I talked to my buddy at work, who's a pro welder. He said it would be easier to simply thread the -16 nipple into that Aluminum block, there's too much mass for my machine. I don't have a threaded variant of the -16, but I do have JB weld. I'll try that, and if it fails, I'll order a nipple with threads. I hate to use epoxy, but it's a low stress environment, so I think it will do ok?

    Ah one last thing, I noticed I have a spare 1.5cm or so washer that came with my oil pump. I don't understand where it goes? I figured the rubber gasket goes behind the castle-nut thing that covers the oil pump, but this washer, I have no idea!
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  13. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    Everything looking good!

    As far as epoxy on the water outlet, eh it might work it might not. Personally I'd just get a 90* fitting with a threaded back, or farm the welding out to a shop maybe? I guess give it a try with the JB and if it blows, then as long as you can get to it, no biggy.

    Engine looks great!
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  14. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    Well it's the end of a long weekend. I uh mostly worked on the Mitsu, as well as the Supra. I think there was something about fireworks, maybe?

    The brake booster situation took me about 2 days and 3 iterations to figure out. Turns out simple angle iron was the best solution. I had to dent the shock tower a little to clear the accumulator, but I think it will be fine. It's not a show car.

    IMG_20190707_172101204[1].jpg

    It's all painted black now and is sitting in the garage drying. The nuts are welded on, acting as studs in this application. Welding in that tight space was giving me fits, it didn't help that the paint on the opposite side was baking, and causing the weld to pop randomly. I'll post some pics of the final product when it's done. The whole thing had to rotate 90 degrees and be spaced 1.5 inches of the firewall, so that the booster pushrod was in the ballpark of where my pedal assembly is located. The pushrod will need to be cut off and a heim threaded on for both adjust ability, and attaching it. Of course I'm not sure now if any of this will clear the factory intake. But hey, there's a ton of good aftermarket ones out there for the 4g6x series.

    Here's the water outlet thing, in all it's jb weld glory. It's epoxied on the inside, and on the mating surface as well as the outside.

    IMG_20190705_142318190[1].jpg

    It'll need to be cut down more, maybe thinner as well. I just need to fix my bandsaw so that it will cut straight!

    More pics of installed booster tomorrow! I think I'm going to run braided stainless instead of the factory lines, at least in the engine bay, you'll see why later.
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  15. 4g64Starion

    4g64Starion Proven Member

    35
    10
    Joined Jan 27, 2019
    Denver, Colorado
    Engine is in the car, along with the first coolant hose. I learned a ton about gas coverage and welding aluminum. I may redo some of the welds...but if they hold, they hold.

    IMG_20190721_162256326_HDR[1].jpg

    I figured out the hydroboost mounting, but just need some M10x1.5 JIS buts to hold it to the firewall. There's no room for DIN/ISO nuts! I alos simply cut off the pedal rod from the old vac booster, and welded it onto the end of the hydro. Viola, adjustable Mitsubishi-brand hydroboost!

    IMG_20190713_205304016[1].jpg


    This is what the Master and booster look like mounted:
    IMG_20190708_193337851[1].jpg


    The ports a the 9 o'clock position are the reservoir ports, no threads, just rubber. Do you guys think they'd hold with simple barb fittings stuck into them, leading to a 90 and some AN line? Remember there's very little pressure on the reservoir side, just residual. The factory used some roll pins and the giant plastic blob to hold fluid. My reservoir is going to be remote, like the stock Starion. The top fittigns are going to be metric to AN banjo fittings, to braided AN-3 and split front/rear, with an adjustable prop valve. Also, Starion is apparently a typo on this site LOL.

    I think I'm going to go with Spec's Stage 3+ clutch and a Fidanza flywheel. It's not rated at more than 470 Ftlbs, but I don't want something crazy and undriveable for a street car. if it ends up slipping...well then I'll grab a 6-puck ACT rated at 600.

    I don't have any good pictures, but the accessory brackets and timing cover back plates (Not sure what they're called) are all shiny and black now. I even went so far as to smooth all the casting flaws off before painting.

    So what's left? Well, the Turbo, the Clutch and flywheel installation, ECU, Fuel Pump and lines and filter, fab the intake manifold ( only have 7 inches clearance) AC maybe, and reassemble the rest of the dash. Oh and the brake fluid reservoir, and the intercooler piping...ok that's way too much stuff.

    I've got around 17 inches between the strut tower and the head, how large is the typical DSM exhaust setup? I wonder if I can just buy an off the shelf part? Oh and I don't have to worry about the water pipe, as I'm not using that.
     

    Street Build 292  1

    1988 Conquest
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  16. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    2,274
    598
    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    Looking good, I like the hydroboost! I may need to do one for my pickup project, so I'll prolly be asking you some questions if I need to get one :thumb:

    The spec clutch should be ok for the start, I'm using a 3 for my yota project, and my buddy has a 2+ dual friction in his F150, it's a little aggressive but it holds great! If you have to change might wanna check out South bend.

    As for space, 17" sounds like plenty depending on what you are going to run, I want to say from head flange to radiator on a 1g is around 14-15" and has fans to deal with, so you should be fine.
     

    155  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 660  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 860  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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