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OK more updates, sorry for the delay and thanks to Devilsfutbol17 for the info.

AS you can guess, I'm still fighting with the clearance beetween the firewall and the head, which means removing the thermostat from its usual location. I plan to run an inline one. I went ahead and cut off the whole assembly fro the mounting flange. Yay bandsaws. I now need to find a large 90 degree fitting to weld onto this. I don't think AN makes anything large enough.
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The other problem is the cam sensor. Standard Mitsu crank sensor only has 2 outputs, which s no good for Megasquirt. So I was thinking to simply machine off 1-2 of the teeth on the unused balance shaft drive pulley and use it as a the crank trigger. This would give me a reference signal every 9.5 degrees assuming the 38 tooth wheel is used, or 11.25 if I use the SOHC 32 tooth wheel. I'll obviously need to move the sensor/make a bracket. I just have trouble stomaching paying $200 to Kiggley for a 12 tooth that I'll have to grind one of the teeth off of. MS2 allows for just about any combination of teeth and angles/offset I can think of, so I think I've got a good plan so far. I do need to figure out a proper Hall Effect sensor, as the Mitsu one can't handle that many teeth from what I read. Also GM is likely cheaper! If any of you guys know/has experience with this, let me know! I could hypothetically modify the MS2 board to use the OEM sensors, but again, clearance to the Firewall is an issue, not to mention buying more board parts.

Also modified the water pump for clearance to the T-belt tensioner. The SOHC mighty max pump is slightly different from the DOHC. Oh and you need to pull this stud from the block, which really confused me as I didn't have any of this stuff on the block when I tore it down. The SOHC Mighty Max and DOHC timing arrangements are totally different from what I can tell.
IMG_20190427_150635[1].jpg
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I'm stuck until next week when the balance shaft elimination kit comes in, as well as the Head is supposed to be completed too!
 
Those rod clearances they told you seem more like a full race spec, I'd go with tighter if you're going to street/strip it. Did they give a reason for the obsenly large clearance recommendation?

GL on finding a 6 bolt tensioner, they're very hard to find around here. For the firewall clearance, have you considered doing the front outlet mod? Just have to restrict the front water ports in the HG and open the rears up a little, then make a pipe/neck on the front and add in your thermostat setup. If I go rwd I plan to do this instead of the wrap-around from the rear of the head.

Random Google pic for reference.
DOHCfrontthermostathousing.jpg


As for the crank tigger, the balance shaft sprocket is a decent idea, if you can get a sensor in there. There's also some trigger wheels on diyautotune that could be made to work, and then this one I found CLICK
 
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So uh USPS lost my Balance shaft kit...damn. It's supposed to be here Friday, maybe. And me head is going to take another week, maybe 2. WTF right?

To fill in the time, and practice, I decided to cut up my spare 4g54 manifold. It's not worth anything, so I felt ok using it to gain a skill. Oh and I went ahead and cut off the Front motor mount assembly, I don't need it, just the tensioner and threaded adjuster thingy part. New bandsaw is great.

It's really hard to TIG in tight spaces! Not to mention I could smell the old carbon burning off, as I welded and it contaminated the weld. That's party.y why they look like poop, uh the other part is welder's skill LOL. But hey, gotta start somewhere right? Oh and I think the regulator on my Argon tank died. Will try replacing it tomorrow, while it's still under warranty. I get slow out of the hose, but not through the welder, if that makes any sense. This would explain all the odd green flame yeah?

OK the other thing I'm thinking is the cooling situation. From another member's build thread, I can see that there's approximately 2 inches between the head and firewall. Precisely the amount needed for a -16 AN fitting 90. Which led me to realizing that my whole build is relying on a $20 water pump designed for a tiny truck. Not good eh? I want to put a blockoff on the front and run a Meziere remote system. It's expensive! but it can easily cool 600 hp V8's, so a little 2 litre off boost 90% of the time should be easy.

Ah one more thing I learned is taht the belt drive won't work as a VR sensor as the teeth are rounded, and only 2.5 mm deep. This is likely outside the range of thet most Hall sensors are compatible with. At least that's what I'm able to learn. Which leads me back to the Kiggly. Which I'll have to modify by removing a tooth, ugh.

Oh one last thing, do you guys have any experience with the ATI super Damper? There's no competent instructions (why is this a recurring theme with stuff I buy?!). Lots of torque specs, but no indication of the correct order of assembly on the crank.

Behold crappy welds!
IMG_20190502_195826[1].jpg
IMG_20190502_200254[1].jpg

IMG_20190502_201353[1].jpg
 
Oh sorry Thunderchild, forgot to reply. Um, yeah DIY Autotune looks interesting, but I'm not sure how i'd adapt that to the ATI balancer.

Yes, I did look at the front facing water outlet, but ugh...ugly! And I'm not sure I like the idea of a rubber gasket holding it all together, but then again I'm not sure it's that different from a regular gasket.

Luckily I found some guys who are DSM freaks, had bought up 5 cars and were parting them out. Plenty of parts for whatever I need.

Oh and btw Thunderchild, if you do go RWD, consider the 6g75! It bolts to a Mur51 Kia trans out of a Sorento 2002-2007. Custom mounts obviously. But hey now oyu can take the awesome late Mivec engine and put in a chassis that doesn't suck! If this wasn't my first engine swap, I'd be more ambitious and do the V6. Oh and I'm pretty sure the TT exhaust manifolds will bolt to the 75 manifold. I spent a lot of time figuring out what engine to put in the Quest, but the 4g64 just seemed a lot better documented.
 
With the ATI damper there should be tapered torx head bolts on the front, you might be able to get a trigger wheel attached there and use bolts or something. Otherwise the ones I linked would have to go between the damper and crank sprocket, which creates more issues. If not, can't help you with directions unfortunately :idontknow: I went with a fluidampr and will on any future engines, just personal preference.

Yea the front t-stat conversion isnt exactly Cinderella haha, usually you'd weld the tube on like the pic I posted, or might be able to get a plate/tube to bolt down bracket style with an o-ring like the factory water pipe. But yes running it from the rear requires simpler fabrication and can be made to look just fine!

As much as the 6g75 is appealing, I'd prefer a Sirius based engine or other 4 cylinder, save weight, space and still make good power, plus the support is unparalleled for the 4g platform. Or I'd put a V8 in @familyMAN :thumb:
 
Hey thanks Thunderchild. I learned all about the tapered torx+ bolts, from my dad's Supra ATI damper install, what a nightmare Torx+ heads are to find... I'll muddle through, and figure it out. Maybe ATi tech support could help LOL.

I'll buy myself a Kiggly and then make it work, maybe return it worst case scenario.
Speaking of which, I still need to get the HLA, oil control thing. It's important from what I read.

Oh and yeah totally understand, 4gx over 6gx any day. I was just impressed with the 6gx's head flow! Not to mention main girdle. I wonder how much more it would weigh than the 4gx series.

So time for updates! I went ahead and made my own waterpump and water outlet blockoff plates. $4 in aluminum from the scrapyard vs $140+ online. It's not perfect, but I think being made of 5mm Alu, it will work fine. I still need to put in place a bung for water in and out, but I need to order the parts first. Oh and I made a 'round' fuel tank adapter thing, so I can run big AN lines into and out of the tank. It's not easy to make a circle with a sawzall and a rotary rasp!

Last thing I did was for the Supra, made some turbo braces.how to TIG, so yeah, they're not the greatest, but they're strong.
IMG_20190504_105506[1].jpg
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I'm going to order the water fittings and pump and line, and hopefully have that figured out by the end of next week.
 
The stuff's here! I ordered a 50 gpm pump, probably overkill and -16 AN fittings. I do not want this thing to overheat, either sitting in traffic or at a track.

I'm still working out where everything's going to go, but this is what I've figured out so far:

The coolant is going to come out the top of the radiator, and go through the core support to the pump. Then from the pump, which is mounted between the rad and intercooler (for some airflow and far from the turbo) the line will be routed across the bay past the steering box and up into the back of the head. Out of the front of the block it will make a less than 1 ft jump to the lower radiator opening.
IMG_20190510_134803[1].jpg

The AN bungs I found fit almost perfectly inside of the Aluminum radiator openings, so welding them should be really easy. Hopefully. I did make a neat bracket today for teh Supra's FPR, so I'm getting better. Practice makes perfect eh.

IMG_20190510_134810[1].jpg
 
Gotta love them torx+ screws!

I'd imagine getting a higher resolution trigger wheel made to work with the kiggly setup shouldn't be too insane. As for the 6gx head flow, it's definitely impressive, if only the overall size could match say, the Mazda KL v6? But I digress...

Nice job on the port adapters! I'd love to have a tig, all i have is a spool gun, but it does the job.
What water pump is that? For my w2a I/C I used -16an and a jabsco low pressure 30gpm pump (#spendy) but it works great! If your pump can actually do 50gpm at temp and at decent pressure that's impressive and should work fine.
Are those -16 fitting actual weld-in ones or just regular bungs? I noticed my weld in ones had a nice big lip, though if tig'ing them in it shouldn't matter as long as you can keep porosity down.

Also, watch out for test fitting the an fittings alot, I noticed a few of mine developed weeps after test fitting them a few times. Had to buy some aluminum conical seals to get them to stop weeping.

Loving the progress!
 
Oh crap, sorry I haven't updated for a few weeks...oops.

Not much has changed. I'm STILL waiting on my head from the shop. And I'm STILL waiting for my ACL balance shaft bearings. Apparently they're on back order everywhere.

On the plus side, I think I'll be getting both of them next week. Oh and I've done a bunch of work on the MK 3 Supra in the garage. I'm not lazy, just stuck LOL.

Oh and i thought I broke my welder. Turns out I was just low on gas, and had miss-adjusted some things. Argon with 25% CO2 gives bad results like a total lack of shield gas will. OS I thought I had bad gas. After exchanging the tank, and swapping torch heads, I realized there was an auxiliary valve on the new torch head that I had closed, preventing gas flow. Fixed the valve, and can now weld again. SO much frustration!


I thought I had the bracketry figured out for the water pump, but I messed up. Starting over, unfortunately, but with a better plan and materials.

Speaking of water pumps, that's the Jegs version rated at 50 gpm at something like 20 psi? I'll have to look up the psi again. It's overkill but there's no kill like overkill as they say.

They're supposed to be weld-able AN bungs, but I'm nervous about that LOL. I will test and report back when I've made some progress on those. I'm still teaching myself this whole welding thing.

OK something to note and I think you guys will find this interesting too, the Starion transmission, KM132, has the same input shaft diameter and count as the RX7 trans! Who knew my old rotary days would pay off? I could swap the entire R series trans into the Starion, but I'd need a really rare 88-89 B2600 only trans bell housing. I'd rather keep the KM132 for now, but The 7's Turbo II is a stout trans I'll upgrade to later if I need. Project 0g, is where I get a lot of this info. I'm still not sure how the hell I'd attach the rx7 flywheel to the 4g series crank though. 7's use a giant 54mm single nut, not 6 bolts. Imay just grab the pressure plate and disk and use the starion flywheel. I'd like something lighter though. The stocker is around 34 pounds! Maybe Fidanza aluminum?

Time to go order the Kiggly HLA and crank sensor thingy. Later!
 
I'm terrible at updating my own threads also, I wouldn't worry about it, haha.

Gotta love figuring out welders too, I need to get a bigger tank for my stuff, hate having to refill so often.

I'll definitely have to check that pump out, I will be changing my intercooler setup and might try that pump out with the longer routing.
I wouldn't sweat the fittings too much, as long as you can get them clean and have good penetration they'll be fine.

I recall reading on zerog about using the rx7 trans guts. I'd recommend using the DSM flywheel for whatever trans you pick, could do lightened if you want, but I'd stick close to stock weight or chromoly with a blasted surface.
 
I'm always disappointed at people who start a really good build thread and end it half way with no followup!

Just glad the thing works again!

Good luck, it's one of the best deals on pumps I could find upon balancing output, longevity, and cost.

I just found out there's an 88 base model b2600 in a yard near me. I'm going to grab the trans Firday, so I can get the bellhousing, tailshaft and shifter. Then off to find a Turbo II or FD trans...And here I was thinking I was done with rotaries. Oh unfortunately, the DSM input shaft is something like 7/8 inch and 20 tooth? Mine is 23 tooth and 1 inch, so no go on cheap DSM flywheel. On the plus side, I can use anything from the Rotary world, with a Starion flywheel!

Also got the Kiggly HLA and the 12-tooth thingy ordered. I had a helluva time tryign to figure out why the parts stores kept referring to the 1g DSM Cam position sensor as a Crank position sensor. I then remembered that the 1g style has both crank AND cam in the same sensor! Of course, now it makes sense. I can only assume Mitsu went to the split sensors due to gaining better accuracy? I'm going to run batch fire, so I only need a crank reference of course.
 
What's the clutch diameter on the starion or rotary clutches? You could use a DSM FW and PP, then the starion/rotary disc if it's the same or close, turbo DSM is 224-225mm diameter for reference.

I've mixed and matched on quite a few projects, current one is Toyota center hub on a Ford 10.5" clutch disk :D

I believe your assumption is correct, accuracy of timing and fuel delivery. The injectors would trigger off the cam sensor and the timing off the crank sensor, that way exact crank degrees and cam degrees are respectively known for their own jobs.

Keep it up!
 
I'm always disappointed at people who start a really good build thread and end it half way with no followup!

Just glad the thing works again!

Good luck, it's one of the best deals on pumps I could find upon balancing output, longevity, and cost.

I just found out there's an 88 base model b2600 in a yard near me. I'm going to grab the trans Firday, so I can get the bellhousing, tailshaft and shifter. Then off to find a Turbo II or FD trans...And here I was thinking I was done with rotaries. Oh unfortunately, the DSM input shaft is something like 7/8 inch and 20 tooth? Mine is 23 tooth and 1 inch, so no go on cheap DSM flywheel. On the plus side, I can use anything from the Rotary world, with a Starion flywheel!

Also got the Kiggly HLA and the 12-tooth thingy ordered. I had a helluva time tryign to figure out why the parts stores kept referring to the 1g DSM Cam position sensor as a Crank position sensor. I then remembered that the 1g style has both crank AND cam in the same sensor! Of course, now it makes sense. I can only assume Mitsu went to the split sensors due to gaining better accuracy? I'm going to run batch fire, so I only need a crank reference of course.

Those bell housings are surely becoming harder to find. I found two trucks in the same yard that had them about 5 hours away from my house and when I got there only one still had the bell housing on the trans. That was a few years ago and since then the couple B2600's I've seen pop up (I get email notifications) have had the G6 motor instead of the G54B, so no luck.
 
Well the JY was mostly a strikeout. The whole row the b2600 was supposed to be in, was crushed. Yeah I checked at the counter and it was still in their inventory, supposedly... ugh.

I did however snag an EDIS col pack off a 1997 Ranger, and a giant trans/power steering cooler fron a similar vintage F150 with an auto. I plan to use the cooler for the power steering, since it will be pulling double duty working the hydroboost as well. It fits almost like it was supposed to be there. It even gives me 2 nches between the rad and itself, perfect for cooling lines, and probably beneficial to cooling air flow.
Still need the figure the oil cooler.

I did get my head back from the shop. Looks great. Measures 5.197 at 4 corners, so right near the 5.2 stock. Working on figuring out he head gasket, thinking Cometic? Oh the HLA showed up but not the 12-tooth trigger yet.

Still need to order, in no particular order: Turbo, Manifold, Piping, Injectors, Oil cooler, Oil lines (turbo and cooler), Pressureplate/clutch/flywheel), Large chunk of Alu (for making strong pan for bottom of trans).

The Starion and RX7 flywheel is a larger diameter, and uses a 240mm clutch, not to mention they're flat, not dished like DSM. Also, pretty sure the inside diameter of the DSM flywheel is 7/8 inch 20 spline and my trans input shaft is 1 inch, 23 spline. I think a Fidanza alu wheel, coupled with a 650 ftlb rated rx7 clutch and pressure plate will do it. I am thinking about a Hydro throwout bearing in that case though. There's little chance of a single plate with that rating being daily or even fun imho.
 
That a bummer about the truck being gone, I hate that, always happens the day that I go to the JY.

Aluminum FW it is!
Only thing about hydro-slave/bearings is removing the trans if they go. I'm not wild about that aspect (nightmares of Ford/Mazda m5od internal slaves being particulary unpleasant), but I'm using a Tilton hydro-TOB for my yota project, since that's all I can fit in there! I say only do it if there isn't another option, though it should offer a bit more control. Have you picked a brand or particular TOB yet?
 
Progress and defeat...

Well the Kiggly HLA and Crank trigger showed up! Yay! I'll be needing to get those installed this weekend. Does anyone know for sure if the stock 2g dsm crank trigger is hall effect or magnetic? I'm thinking if it's magnetic, I can coat or paint part of the kiggly trigger so that it won't pickup, thus preventing me from having to cut up a $200 part.

My Cometic 87mm headgasket also showed up, bent... Yep UPS decided that a flat headgasket was for n00bs and bent it right up for me for superior sealing, right? New one is one the way already, but now it's a few days out, again.

You guys want to see any pics of the head or whatever?

Oh and I was doing some measuring, and I think I'm going ot ditch the giant steering cooler, too much airflow blockage, one smallish one should be good. Also, the stock starion lower lip (Mine's thrashed, but maybe fixable) has 2 nice air scoops on each end, I'm thinking oil coolers run in parallel. I really want to keep the heat away from the rad considering the closed in nose of the Starion and the location of the giant intercooler. This means also relocating the water pump to the passenger front fender/core support area. I wish I had some 3 inch tubing laying around so i could visualize the clearances better. That stuff's expensive!
 
IIRC the 2g sensor is hall effect as it creates a digital signal, but I may be wrong. Unfortunately I see modifying the kiggly piece being in your future :(

That sucks that ups ganked the HG, what a pain, I'm assuming they covered the cost?

Pictures? Yes, always pictures haha.

As much as I wish we could all have massive cooling systems for all of the vehicles needs, sometimes you have to get creative :D sounds like you'll be able to have a pretty good system still!
 
Hey my new head gasket showed up! It wasn't supposed to be here until the 11th. Cometic sent it inside of a 3 foot long box and I was wondering WTF I'd bought from Mishimoto.I guess they learned their lesson about shipping in tiny boxes :D

Got the Intercooler hung today, and will have the top mounts figured out later. It's all out of 3/16th by 1.25 inch steel bar. Overkill, but it's easier to work with. I'll figure out the top mounts later, I need washers, the rubber sort to isolate the cooler from vibration too.

I was thinking about the whole cooling system again today, and realized that the Starion has 2 very nicely shaped air scoop things on the lower pumper. I'm thinking 2 oil coolers, run in parallel, one on each side, like BMW does. That would alleviate the airflow into the radiator issues. Oh and the Water pump is moving to the area between the radiator support and the passenger side wheel. fits pretty easily, and stays out of my cooling airflow. For what the JY is asking for that oil cooler I got, one from CXracing is not that much more, and better quality, also smaller, so I think I'll for aftermarket. Maybe some sort of hole in the hood over the turbo as well, I'm not adverse to cutting sheet metal on this thing.

This was really hard to type, as I managed to burn 3-4 fingers picking up hot metal today :confused:

This is the practice piece bent from thin aluminum, to get the measure and shape for the steel.
IMG_20190607_141828561_HDR[1].jpg


Here's a finished installation, minus paint of course
IMG_20190608_162258370_HDR[1].jpg


And from the front. it's a bit crooked, but will straighten after the final washers and tightening of everything
IMG_20190608_162234092_HDR[1].jpg


These are the top brackets. They'll tie into the metal to the left and right of the intercooler. No one seems to have rubber washers in the correct size. Well maybe Ace does but screw those guys.

IMG_20190608_190000463_HDR[1].jpg


Going to try to get the head onto the engine tomorrow, so I can put the whole thing into the car and check lots of clearances LOL.

Oh here's the pretty head I promised to show off :D
IMG_20190608_200400809[1].jpg


And my cluster 'hood' thing that still needs to get wrapped. It's good being single or my GF would murder me having all this stuff on the kitchen table.

IMG_20190608_200409544[1].jpg
 
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Bearings showed up today. Which was kinda anti-climatic, as apparently the machine shop had already left the old ones inside! I may have just forgot. Anyway, I pounded out the old 2-piece ones, and went to install the new ones. I can't seem to get the alignment right, augh! I watched a video where a guy was using a magnet on a stick to hold the bearing, and I think I'll try that tomorrow, assuming I can find a magnet on a stick to buy.

New headgasket installed! Well except now I'm waiting on the dowel pins the machine shop lost...
IMG_20190609_122642820[1].jpg


As you can see, there's two water/steam holes in the gasket that aren't in the MM block, is this a problem?

This is just the HLA installed, and loctited
IMG_20190609_141712883[1].jpg

And this is the final intercooler install. There's rubber washers and grommets on top and bottom so that the mounts are rigid, but the cooler floats a bit.
IMG_20190609_182205980[1].jpg


Once I get the BS elim kit installed, I can pop on the oil pan, and see how this thing is going to fit in the chassis. Then I can move towards the exhaust, and maybe plan 'C' on the water outlet. I'm thinking a 1.25x2 rectangle of aluminum with a 1 inch hole in the center like a right angle would work fine for the back of the head. I think someone makes a piece like that, but it was very expensive. I'll have to double check, it's not like I need billet parts!
 
@4g64Starion I hate to tell you this...but that gasket won't work for that block. The holes that are uncovered are oil drain-back holes, and with that current setup you'll have leaks to atmosphere from the crank case, as well as massive leak potential. :(

What bearings are you talking about, the BS bearings?
You shouldn't have to hammer the new rod or main bearings in to anything, just wanna be sure.
 
Are you sure it won't work? Its clearly not sitting on the block correctly right now. It needs to be flipped at least once to line up. I'm guessing he just threw it on there for a photo.
 
Are you sure it won't work? Its clearly not sitting on the block correctly right now. It needs to be flipped at least once to line up. I'm guessing he just threw it on there for a photo.



Exactly. It's just upside down. Should be just fine once you flip it.
 
Hah yeah it was just upside down, I posted the wrong picture.

I meant to post this one, which shows the tiny holes that aren't in my block, but are in the gasket.
IMG_20190609_123516950[1].jpg


Oh and yes I was talking about the BS bearings, they're tricky to align and I was really tired.

I think 'm going to talk to OS giken or Spec, and see if they can work something out for a twin-disk. This Starion flywheel is the same as an RX7, except for the 6-bolt crank flange instead of the single 54mm nut that rotaries use. I'm not happy with the single disks that I can find in anywhere near the 600 HP/FTlbs rating.

Speaking of which, Any recommendations on turbo setup as well as injector sizing? I spec'ed a fuel pump rated for 700 HP on e85, so I think I'm going to be ok there.

I've had no internet all yesterday, damn xfinity!
 
Hah yeah it was just upside down, I posted the wrong picture!

Phew, I was looking at it after work going "oh crap that sucks..." Glad I was mistaken! That'll teach me to try and be intelligent after long hours :rolleyes:

Yes the hg should be fine, there are spots with no holes to direct waterflow in a certain path through the block, so that's fine.

Yea the balance shaft bearing can be a PITA, a good bearing driver kit makes quick work or there's a couple places that make a specific 4g tool, white shed speed/bastarddsm sells one.

Twin disk would be nice, spendy though, just need a flywheel blank machined for the starion flange. I know someone could do it, just a matter of obtaining a blank through the clutch company of your choice, or just having them custom make you a clutch setup.

Holsets are cheap, plentiful and tough, BW are sweet especially EFR series stuff, otherwise it's kind a take your pic based on intended use thing. I'd vote for an hx40 twin scroll or maybe an hx52.
 
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Got a bunch done over the weekend so far! I did plan to have the engine in the car, for fitment purposes, but cest la vie...

OK short story time! I noticed a very odd vibration in my daily this morning, so I jacked it up, and checked all around, figuring ti was the rear bushings going, or the guibo bearings (read expensive!). After hammering off the old wheel locks ( I managed to loose the key), putting on the wrong style lug nuts, getting the new ones off, and 4 correct ones to replace the old locks, it turns out that there was just tar on the drivers' tire. Yep, the tire shop guy, who I went to to have the balance checked, noticed it right away. about a 3x6" patch or freaking road tar had melded itself to the tire and was causing the vibration. Ah well at least the fix was free!

Head is torqued down, had a little trouble figuring out how to get the washers and nuts on these studs, but I just pulled the stud, put the washer in the hole and then put the stud back in. And threading the nut on was a PITA as well. Eh basically the exact same problem as the 7mgte where the ARP hardware was a tiny bit too big relative to the springs/holes the studs go into.

Got the valve cover touched up and the gaskets installed. A thin layer of RTV black is between the gasket and the cover, and for now I'm leaving the gasket to block dry. I assume this will leak without rtv?

Finally figured out the balance shaft bearings, after ruining one, ugh. I did clean out all the tiny shavings it made as well. Either way I'm going to run some cheap oil through the engine before firing it, to hopefully clean anything out.

Oh got the water pump plate polished up and bolted in place, you can also see the bearings I flipped and installed too.:
IMG_20190615_201912414[1].jpg


I know that weld looks bad, but it's solid on the backside!

And yes that is the Supra sneaking in on the right.

Unfortunately the hardware store is undergoing a vendor shift so they had 1/2 the hardware I needed today to bolt everything together, gotta go to Amazon for frigging bolts now.

OK now onto the problem! Of course there's a problem!

My oil pump doesn't want to turn in the clockwise direction. it easily turns counter clockwise. clockwise it will turn, but only with effort, and it seems to jamb up randomly. I popped the cover off, to take a look:
IMG_20190615_203944676_HDR[1].jpg


it looks alright, but something is just wrong, and I can't figure out what. I tried sliding the drive gear back and forth, thinking it was out of alignment, but that was a no-go too. It's a brand new pump from DNJ, not used. The old MM one is very rumbly, but it at least turns easily in the correct direction!
 
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