Setting Zero Lash with Solid Lifters

[greddy_1700]

Hey,

Is there a step by step for setting zero lash on a 4G63 using solid lifters? I havent found a proper write up, and it would be helpful when setting up to degree my cams.

All I have seen are write ups on how to shim or modify stock lifters, but nothing on the actual process of setting zero lash. I assume I use the feeler gauge on the valve as I would for degreeing? What am I prying against to ensure I am at zero lash? Sorry if this is covered elsewhere, I just havent been able to find it.

Thanks!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Measure the lash at the base circle of the cam on each lobe. .001" should just be to tight to slide.
Are you just checking the cams to make sure they are as close to degreed in as possible or are you running zero lash cams? Surely not solid lifter with zero lash is the only reason I bring it up. Cam has to have a little lash.

 

[greddy_1700]

Just getting set up to degree a new set of cams, and I have never done this before (replacing my old set of BC 280s with GSC R2's for my 2.3L). I bought a long block and had the 280s degreed when I bought the engine.

The rest of the process seems somewhat straightforward (albeit tedious), but everyone seems to always gloss over the setup for zero lash.

 

[DSMPT]

Hey,

Is there a step by step for setting zero lash on a 4G63 using solid lifters? I havent found a proper write up, and it would be helpful when setting up to degree my cams.

All I have seen are write ups on how to shim or modify stock lifters, but nothing on the actual process of setting zero lash. I assume I use the feeler gauge on the valve as I would for degreeing? What am I prying against to ensure I am at zero lash? Sorry if this is covered elsewhere, I just havent been able to find it.

Thanks!

You make the clearance between the rocker arm roller and cam when it's on the base cycle as zero (as close as) by adjusting the lifter height.
The feeler gauge is not a must. Set it as the rocker arm roller and cam are touching each other but have no pressure (not wobbly). Not too tight, not too loose. But if you want to accurately set it equally on intake/exhaust both sides, you can use the thinnest feeler gauge. It's like Marty said above that it's too tight to slide in a 0.0010" thickness gauge, that would probably be somewhere around 0~.0005". (If you do that with a .0005" gauge, that would be able to make it much closer to zero)

P.S. Set the clearance after install everything. Like after cam cap bolts torqued properly, timing belt installed, put the tension etc. Because before and after would easily make a .0005"~.0010" difference in the clearance. And don't copy the lifter height for other side to save time. Most of time it wouldn't give the same clearance. It's because the lifter slots on the cylinder head are not precisely machined equally. So each slot needs different solid lifter height to have the same cam to rocker arm roller clearance.

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