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sd setup with link i'm lost

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newtodsm97gst

10+ Year Contributor
289
1
Oct 23, 2011
Lewisville, Texas
can anyone here show me step by step how to setup my sd? I have mitsu style 4 bar map and iat with pig tail. I connected all the wiring but when I start the car, it runs fine then when I rev after i let go the gas pedal the rpm goes really low and running rich. I read the entire sd101 thing but i'm still lost. i did not use the stock mas to use that value coz I dont know how. pls help thanks.
 
What was wrong with your maf?

nothing wrong with the maf, just followed whats on the ecmlink. the one that says the wiring and how to setup on link, then I found out that I need to use the stock maf value but don't know how to do that. I'll post a log in a few mins. my lap top's battery died LOL...
 
here's the log
 

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  • log.2013.09.16-01.elg sd first run.elg
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Sorry for the misinformed post. Thanks crypt1c
I dont know enough of SD to weigh in
 
Looks like you need to adjust your tps. You are simulating the idle switch from tps, so the idle switch is not going high. Use tpsadjust, and if you're having problems with it, you may have to manually adjust the tps. I'd like to see ISCposition as well...

ahem, you notice something funny about the IATs? Ive heard of people not even having an iat to run SD but if you DO have one and its reading over 300*F then thats a problem. Big problem. Its not wired in correctly would be my guess.

His temp weighting is set to zero in DA, so the iat has no effect on SD. Nevertheless, that is a good point...300*F is cookin
 
Looks like you need to adjust your tps. You are simulating the idle switch from tps, so the idle switch is not going high. Use tpsadjust, and if you're having problems with it, you may have to manually adjust the tps. I'd like to see ISCposition as well...



His temp weighting is set to zero in DA, so the iat has no effect on SD. Nevertheless, that is a good point...300*F is cookin

how do i do this (Use tpsadjust) sorry i'm really new on tuning.
should I unclick the simulating the idle switch?
and when I do this do need to put anything back to original setup when I had the stock mas?
to do this sdveadjsdratio [ECMTuning - wiki] I have to connect the stock mas/maf right? and
 
how do i do this (Use tpsadjust) sorry i'm really new on tuning.
should I unclick the simulating the idle switch?
and when I do this do need to put anything back to original setup when I had the stock mas?

Alright, first and foremost. You need to go through the videos (if you haven't already):
ECMLink demo videos

video 7 shows how to use tpsadjust.

Also, the ecmlink wiki is your best friend:
ECMlink wiki

on the wiki page, search for tps and you'll find the v3tpsadj page.

If you have a working idle switch, then you can uncheck "simulate idle switch from tps." Give that a try and see if it fixes things, but at some point you'll still have to adjust the tps.

Not sure what you mean by putting things back to the mas settings (mafcomp sliders?)...from what I can tell, most of your settings look ok to me for speed density operation. However, i would also check "disable maf compensation w/SD operation" under the MAFcomp page.
 
Alright, first and foremost. You need to go through the videos (if you haven't already):
ECMLink demo videos

video 7 shows how to use tpsadjust.

Also, the ecmlink wiki is your best friend:
ECMlink wiki

on the wiki page, search for tps and you'll find the v3tpsadj page.

If you have a working idle switch, then you can uncheck "simulate idle switch from tps." Give that a try and see if it fixes things, but at some point you'll still have to adjust the tps.

Not sure what you mean by putting things back to the mas settings (mafcomp sliders?)...from what I can tell, most of your settings look ok to me for speed density operation. However, i would also check "disable maf compensation w/SD operation" under the MAFcomp page.

Yes the mafcomp sliders, do i need to do anything on this?
 
Yes the mafcomp sliders, do i need to do anything on this?

No. The mafcomp sliders become irrelevant once you select speed density. Airflow adjustments are made using the VE table.

Out of curiosity, do you still have your maf in the car?

Also, I just noticed that your IAT is set to the Baro ecu input. If you're using the sd cable, it needs to be on the Intake Temp input. This might be what's causing your high IAT temps...
 
No. The mafcomp sliders become irrelevant once you select speed density. Airflow adjustments are made using the VE table.

Out of curiosity, do you still have your maf in the car?

I do, because i dont have the proper intake yet. But the connector is not connected
Do i have to completely remove the stock maf?
K i'll do the iat as soon i get home. I'll post another log again.
 
I do, because i dont have the proper intake yet. But the connector is not connected
Do i have to completely remove the stock maf?

No you don't have to remove the maf.

Alright then. I see you're using the mdp for the map sensor but are you using the plug-and-play sd cable for the iat? Basically, does your iat plug into your maf connector?
 
No you don't have to remove the maf.

Alright then. I see you're using the mdp for the map sensor but are you using the plug-and-play sd cable for the iat? Basically, does your iat plug into your maf connector?

Sorry, let me clarify it. I used stock connector for the mitsu style 4bar omni map, and splice the wire from maf connector to ait sensor. Hopefully that helps, thanks again for the help.
 
Sorry, let me clarify it. I used stock connector for the mitsu style 4bar omni map, and splice the wire from maf connector to ait sensor. Hopefully that helps, thanks again for the help.

Ah I gotcha.

http://ecmlink.com/wiki/sdoptions?s=iat said:
If you decide to hardwire the IAT sensor, then you'll want one side going to sensor ground and the other side going to the ECU's IAT input.

http://ecmlink.com/wiki/gmmafiatbaro said:
IAT NOTES: The IAT wire is a passthrough to the ECU input. Unlike the Baro input, we can not provide a buffered input on the IAT because we must know the exact pull up and pull down resistor combination used for this input in order to accurately calculate temperature from the connected thermistor. This input is the ONLY input you can use to connect an aftermarket IAT sensor (like the GM IAT or AEM IAT) for use with ECMLink.

This is why your iat is locked at 302*. Only the Intake Temp signal can be used for an iat sensor. I'm assuming that it's wired to the Baro, so you need to rewire it if you want to use your iat sensor.

On the other hand, it might already be wired to the Intake Temp input. In this case you just need to re-assign the pin on the ECU Inputs page. (if you don't know how, watch this @3:45 capturedvalues video) This needs to be done while connected to the ecu.

/*********************************************/
Anyway, this is a separate issue. To fix your original problem here are my suggestions:

Use the TPSAdjust tool in ecmlink
Log (capture) ISCposition (if you don't know how, watch the same video from begining: capturedvalues video). Again, this needs to be done while connected to the ecu.
check "Disable MAF compensation w/SD operation" on the MAF Comp page

After this, report back with another log.
 
No you don't have to remove the maf.

Alright then. I see you're using the mdp for the map sensor but are you using the plug-and-play sd cable for the iat? Basically, does your iat plug into your maf connector?

Ah I gotcha.





This is why your iat is locked at 302*. Only the Intake Temp signal can be used for an iat sensor. I'm assuming that it's wired to the Baro, so you need to rewire it if you want to use your iat sensor.

On the other hand, it might already be wired to the Intake Temp input. In this case you just need to re-assign the pin on the ECU Inputs page. (if you don't know how, watch this @3:45 capturedvalues video) This needs to be done while connected to the ecu.

/*********************************************/
Anyway, this is a separate issue. To fix your original problem here are my suggestions:

Use the TPSAdjust tool in ecmlink
Log (capture) ISCposition (if you don't know how, watch the same video from begining: capturedvalues video). Again, this needs to be done while connected to the ecu.
check "Disable MAF compensation w/SD operation" on the MAF Comp page

After this, report back with another log.

Will do as soon as i get off work.

heres the log
did not fix the tps yet due to laptop battery died again.
added a new one
 

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  • log.2013.09.17-01.elg cruisewot.elg
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  • log.2013.09.17-01.elgnewtoday.elg
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Last edited:
heres the log
did not fix the tps yet due to laptop battery died again.
added a new one

New log is looking better. You fixed the IAT signal, the idle switch is activating now (by unchecking simulated idle switch), tps is looking better too...but some parts are offset. Make sure to do a tpsadjust.

Why is your load scale modified in DA? If you're on a 2.0L 4g63, reset it back to default. Also, reset the sdtempweighting back to default now that the IAT is fixed.

Your ISCposition is low and needs adjustment as well. It should be reading 32 at idle, fully warmed up with no fans or accessories running. Take a screwdriver to the BISS (that big ass screw staring you right in the face, located on the throttle body) and screw it in slowly until it reads around 32.

After tpsadjust and biss adjust, post a fully warmed up idle log (a good 1-2 mins). You're about ready to dial in your VE table for idle and cruise...
 
New log is looking better. You fixed the IAT signal, the idle switch is activating now (by unchecking simulated idle switch), tps is looking better too...but some parts are offset. Make sure to do a tpsadjust.

Why is your load scale modified in DA? If you're on a 2.0L 4g63, reset it back to default. Also, reset the sdtempweighting back to default now that the IAT is fixed.

Your ISCposition is low and needs adjustment as well. It should be reading 32 at idle, fully warmed up with no fans or accessories running. Take a screwdriver to the BISS (that big ass screw staring you right in the face, located on the throttle body) and screw it in slowly until it reads around 32.

After tpsadjust and biss adjust, post a fully warmed up idle log (a good 1-2 mins). You're about ready to dial in your VE table for idle and cruise...

sorry took so long to fix the problem. heres the new log. cant really fix the isc to 32 on idle but i got it close enough. now my problem is everytime I press the clutch it idles to 600 and my battery voltage is 12.7- 13.2? I use to idle around 13.7 ish
 

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  • log.2013.09.22-01.elgidle.elg
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  • log.2013.09.22-01.elguuuuu.elg
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now my problem is everytime I press the clutch it idles to 600
You have your clutch cut wire connected to the ECU but you haven't told the ECU. I can see this by looking at the A/T D Pin log parameter. Our install instructions include the following statement:

With the clutchcut adapter installed, if clutch-cut operation is not desired, it should be inhibited by configuring the clutch-cut RPM to the same value as the normal RPM limit rather than by deactivating the clutch-cut feature


So with the clutch cut wire installed, you need to go into the RPM/TPS tab and check the "Enable clutch cut" checkbox then set the clutch cut rev limit equal to your full rev limit to disable the no-lift-to-shift function.

Otherwise, the ECU thinks you have an automatic transmission and every time you press the clutch pedal in, it thinks you're putting the transmission in drive and it's changing your idle point.

With that change made, you may find that you need to go under the hood and open the BISS more. Or at least go into Direct Access and bump up the "FastIdleMTISCPos" values. In particular, that "9" and "16" in the first table labeled "FastIdleISCPosMTnoAC". Maybe set those to something more like 35 or 40.

Thomas Dorris
 
You have your clutch cut wire connected to the ECU but you haven't told the ECU. I can see this by looking at the A/T D Pin log parameter. Our install instructions include the following statement:

With the clutchcut adapter installed, if clutch-cut operation is not desired, it should be inhibited by configuring the clutch-cut RPM to the same value as the normal RPM limit rather than by deactivating the clutch-cut feature


So with the clutch cut wire installed, you need to go into the RPM/TPS tab and check the "Enable clutch cut" checkbox then set the clutch cut rev limit equal to your full rev limit to disable the no-lift-to-shift function.

Otherwise, the ECU thinks you have an automatic transmission and every time you press the clutch pedal in, it thinks you're putting the transmission in drive and it's changing your idle point.

With that change made, you may find that you need to go under the hood and open the BISS more. Or at least go into Direct Access and bump up the "FastIdleMTISCPos" values. In particular, that "9" and "16" in the first table labeled "FastIdleISCPosMTnoAC". Maybe set those to something more like 35 or 40.

Thomas Dorris
Thanks, i'm always wondering how the clutch wire thing work. Now i have another issue, i might need to make a new post but here it is. My mtxl wideband keeps showing 0135 code on dts, replace a new sensor but still shows it. Cleared it so many times coz i hate the check engine light thing. I wired the yellow wire to pin 76, installed it in front o2 sensor, enable narrowband on link, but i'm lost after that. Thanks again.
 
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