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ECMlink Sd idle tuning issues

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Jacolu3

Proven Member
638
130
Jan 31, 2015
Lake Grove, New_York
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
no

2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
yes
4). Ignition system
stock coil
ngk 7s
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:
Throttle Cable:good
TPS:.63v
BISS:

7). Compression ratio
9.5:1
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
no
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
no
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):good
Car running:good

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:43
Injector Size (cc/min):FIC 1120 low

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:innovate
Calibration Date:last month

13). Type of fuel
Type:93
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?yes


So I just finished setting up my car for SD with a GM IAT, and a GM 4 bar. Put in a tial BOV and the fp intake not recirc.
Im trying to get my Combined FT to stay around +-5 and my airflow per revs around 25 and cant seem to get them to adjust using the SD tab for the airflow and the deadtime for Combined FT. It seems like when I adjust them they dont really change.
any suggestions?
heres my log before my laptop battery died
 

Attachments

  • sdidlelog2.elg
    274.2 KB · Views: 125
Fuel adjustment Table.
2000 3.1
??? WHY??
2500 0.0
3000 0.0
3500 0.0
4000 0.0
4500 0.0
5000 0.0
5500 0.0
6000 0.0
6500 0.0
7000 0.0
7500 0.0
8000 0.0
8500 0.0
9000 0.0
9500 0.0
10000 0.0

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the cell in SD associated with your idle.
How ever i think you may need to address something else first.

Your octane tables in DA are correct 14.7 at idle. But your AFRest is off. 12.1:1 which is rich.
Your actual WB is closer to 14.7, yet its a little lean 17.1:1

So your ecu thinks its suppose to be richer, when its actually leaner.
I believe you need to focus on adjusting your injector settings , play with it.
And your AFpR is a little high, but don't get to hung up on it. If all your Fuel trims are 0 and combinedFT is 0 and your WB matches your AFRest then your ok.

Now im a noob. there's far better people to help you, so i may be very wrong but for me its about fuel trims. If the ecu wants to fight me with Afpr then i just ignore it.

Lastly why the 3% on your fuel settings?
 
So I'm pretty sure that 3.1 is from my previous tune before I switched to sd. Not sure that would affect my idle tuning because I'm not seeing 2k rpms.
I should also not that I'm using dks 280 cams which might or might not affect my af per revs.
I've been also noticing that towards the end of my log the front o2 stays at .8 and doesn't cycle that often. Might be because of my afr. I'm not sure.
And when you say mess with my injector settings do you mean dead time? Or something else?

And thank you for taking time to look over my log. I greatly appreciate it



Fuel adjustment Table.
2000 3.1
??? WHY??
2500 0.0
3000 0.0
3500 0.0
4000 0.0
4500 0.0
5000 0.0
5500 0.0
6000 0.0
6500 0.0
7000 0.0
7500 0.0
8000 0.0
8500 0.0
9000 0.0
9500 0.0
10000 0.0

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the cell in SD associated with your idle.
How ever i think you may need to address something else first.

Your octane tables in DA are correct 14.7 at idle. But your AFRest is off. 12.1:1 which is rich.
Your actual WB is closer to 14.7, yet its a little lean 17.1:1

So your ecu thinks its suppose to be richer, when its actually leaner.
I believe you need to focus on adjusting your injector settings , play with it.
And your AFpR is a little high, but don't get to hung up on it. If all your Fuel trims are 0 and combinedFT is 0 and your WB matches your AFRest then your ok.

Now im a noob. there's far better people to help you, so i may be very wrong but for me its about fuel trims. If the ecu wants to fight me with Afpr then i just ignore it.

Lastly why the 3% on your fuel settings?
 
I saw the same thing in the log. I would zero it out. Adjust the deadtime to get within 5%+/- of 0 then leave it alone for your idle. You may have to make larger than expected changes to see what it is doing in the STFT or at least thats how I do it.
 
I saw the same thing in the log. I would zero it out. Adjust the deadtime to get within 5%+/- of 0 then leave it alone for your idle. You may have to make larger than expected changes to see what it is doing in the STFT or at least thats how I do it.

So I zeroed out the fuel tab and tried it again. I wasnt getting any changes because my o2 wasnt cycling. I blipped the throttle a couple of times and it started to cycle. I adjusted the deadtime to get me around zero and tried to get the air flow per revs to get closer to 25 but wasnt able to succeed. So I went out for a short drive and drove ok. The AFR was much better than previous log. I did get a little hesitation on acceleration a few times, but im thinking thats just a tuning issue.
Ill post a log from the start up with the idle tuning and with the cruise in one log.
Thank you guys for your help
 

Attachments

  • firstsdcruise.elg
    1.4 MB · Views: 82
With those big cams and a higher idle, it's ok if Airflowperrev is a little higher then .25. Although you definitely need to make sure your BISS is adjusted correctly.

I can't see the log, but IMO looking at CombinedFT at idle is more difficult than locking it in open loop and making deadtime adjustments to hit your AFR. CombinedFT can take awhile to catchup sometimes unless you clear FT after every change.
 
For starters, adjust your TPS:
The ECMLink TPS adjustment feature has become a pet peeve of mine. Nearly every log I look at, somebody is using it incorrectly. I strongly believe if you need to adjust the TPS offset or TPS scale more than a value of 2 on either scale, you need to go back and make a manual adjustment to your TPS. You are at a 8 offset, on a 101% scale. That tells me the natural sweep of your TPS sensor is out of wack, and you need to go manually adjust it. On my personal cars, I'm happy when this feature is either disabled, or I'm at 0 and 100%...But that's just me.

Drop your target idle to 900 RPM or lower.

Zero out the timing and fuel adjustments you've made to the timing/fuel tables in the ECU config tabs. Those are for temporary adjustments between pulls. Any changes made to this should be reflected and made permanently in the DA timing table.

Launch limit 7K? Really?

You need to log STFT, CombinedFT, and LTFTLo. There's a full list of the values you should be logging here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/list-of-values-to-log.444831/

For cruise tuning, you should extend your open loop thresholds, the go cruise around for about an hour under various driving conditions (just no WOT). To extend the thresholds, read here: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft

After you collect a bunch of data in the log, use the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool built into ECMlink and it will do most of the work for you. Don't forget to adjust your OL thresholds back to stock when you;re done cruise tuning.

For the most part, I tune my car in this order:
1) WOT
2) Cruise
3) Idle

I begin with WOT because I want my global fuel to be where it needs to be at WOT before I dial in cruise and idle. If you're constantly dicking with global fuel, then you'll constantly be re-tuning cruise and idle. Once global is where you need it to be at WOT, simply dial in deadtime and VE in the cruise/idle cells to get everything perfect. Also, WOT is usually the easiest to get perfect, and idle is the biggest bi***.

Your VE table is ugly as f***. I went ahead and ran the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool on your cruise log. I then smoothed all the cells so they transition nicely. Load this table, and use it to go get another cruise log after you do all the stuff I've outlined above.
 

Attachments

  • Jacolu3settings.2017.02.04-01.ecm
    4.9 KB · Views: 117
Last edited:
Wow first of all thanks for all the great info and suggestions!!! I really do appreciate it!!
So I have a few more questions for you if you dont mind.
1)I am running 280 cams, is 900 too low for idle? Thats why I had it at 1000
2)Launch Limit was set that high because I was checking for clutch drag and couldnt figure out how to turn it off so raised it up and forgot to drop it back down.
3)Edit
4)Also I am logging STFT, CombinedFT, and LTFTLo, I can see it on my laptop

Think thats aout it for now. Im going to go out for a drive shortly and see what happens. Thanks again for the help!!!

For starters, adjust your TPS:


Drop your target idle to 900 RPM or lower.

Zero out the timing and fuel adjustments you've made to the timing/fuel tables in the ECU config tabs. Those are for temporary adjustments between pulls. Any changes made to this should be reflected and made permanently in the DA timing table.

Launch limit 7K? Really?

You need to log STFT, CombinedFT, and LTFTLo. There's a full list of the values you should be logging here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/list-of-values-to-log.444831/

For cruise tuning, you should extend your open loop thresholds, the go cruise around for about an hour under various driving conditions (just no WOT). To extend the thresholds, read here: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft

After you collect a bunch of data in the log, use the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool built into ECMlink and it will do most of the work for you. Don't forget to adjust your OL thresholds back to stock when you;re done cruise tuning.

For the most part, I tune my car in this order:
1) WOT
2) Cruise
3) Idle

I begin with WOT because I want my global fuel to be where it needs to be at WOT before I dial in cruise and idle. If you're constantly dicking with global fuel, then you'll constantly be re-tuning cruise and idle. Once global is where you need it to be at WOT, simply dial in deadtime and VE in the cruise/idle cells to get everything perfect. Also, WOT is usually the easiest to get perfect, and idle is the biggest bi***.

Your VE table is ugly as f***. I went ahead and ran the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool on your cruise log. I then smoothed all the cells so they transition nicely. Load this table, and use it to go get another cruise log after you do all the stuff I've outlined above.
 
Last edited:
So made some adjustments went out for a 10 mile drive, used the SDCT adjustment then went out for another approx 10 mile drive and made a log. Seems better but still needs some work. I was getting some knock on the take off from a stop. Might just be false knock.
 

Attachments

  • cruiseboostsd1.elg
    1.1 MB · Views: 77
1)I am running 280 cams, is 900 too low for idle? Thats why I had it at 1000
The problem with setting your target idle so high is you often end up with surge. I've seen this on multiple cars. This is partly because the ECU advances ignition timing above 750 RPM, which results in engine speed increasing. You'll need to adjust timing in your idle cells if your target idle is going to be 1k RPM. In addition, the ECU will cut fuel at idle at anything over 900 RPM, so you'll need to adjust for this via FC offset if you ever expect the car to idle.

I've helped tune a few cars with large cams without having to bump the idle significantly over stock. For the most part, if your idle tune is really dialed in, the car will idle in the lower RPM ranges like it's supposed to. Based on your mod list, your car should fall into this category, even with the 280 cams.

Read here: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge


2)Launch Limit was set that high because I was checking for clutch drag and couldnt figure out how to turn it off so raised it up and forgot to drop it back down.
Got it, that makes sense.
 
So made some adjustments went out for a 10 mile drive, used the SDCT adjustment then went out for another approx 10 mile drive and made a log. Seems better but still needs some work.

The log looks better. You WBO2 looks like it's tracking pretty good according to your targer AFR.

Something is strange, though. Your LTFTs don't seem to be updating until the very end of the log. I don't see anything out of wack that would keep the car from going into learn mode, but you're not logging baro, so I can't say for sure (start logging baro). You probably need to collect more data before making any serious changes to the VE table. Watch for yout LTFTs to start updating.

For cruise, I'll typically drive an hour or so and get a good amount of data. I'll run the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool on the log, and then rinse and repeat until it's good. Each time you make changes, you should see your LTFTs (Lo, Mid, Hi) trend more toward zero. I'm usually happy if they end up +/- 2%. Looking at CombinedFT will provide you with real time feedback.

One thing you need to start getting good at is smoothing your VE table. When you have large jumps from cell to cell, the data you're collecting during a log will be skewed and inaccurate. If you keep making adjustments based on skewed data, your VE table will eventually become completely f***ed. Use the interpolate section (linear) *right click on the SD table* to smooth your table. If the values aren't exactly what the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool suggested, that's fine. You're looking to make a series of small changes to the VE table that add up to be one smooth table full of fairly accurate VE values. You may also have to tweak the cells by hand to get them blended nicely.

Nobody with a decent tune ever said this shit was easy. Getting my cruise tune spot on literally took me weeks of driving, collecting data, tweaking the map, the repeating the process until I was satisfied. Don't be discouraged if you don't get it dialed in over night. If you only drive your car on rare occasions like me, you're looking at some time before it's on point.




and i manually adjusted my tps to .63 before i went out, and after driving for a little bit it went up to .65

Now, this is what the TPS Adjust feature is for. It's fine if you use it to make small adjustments after the voltage shifts slightly after properly adjustig the sensor.
 
Cool bro thanks so much for the help and suggestions. I pretty much only drive my car on the weekend as long as it's not raining or snowing so it takes me a while to get things dialed in but with your help so far and everyone else here it'll get there.
Once again I really appreciate you taking time out to help me out!!!
I'll keep tweeking until everything seems good

Thanks
-Brian

The log looks better. You WBO2 looks like it's tracking pretty good according to your targer AFR.

Something is strange, though. Your LTFTs don't seem to be updating until the very end of the log. I don't see anything out of wack that would keep the car from going into learn mode, but you're not logging baro, so I can't say for sure (start logging baro). You probably need to collect more data before making any serious changes to the VE table. Watch for yout LTFTs to start updating.

For cruise, I'll typically drive an hour or so and get a good amount of data. I'll run the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool on the log, and then rinse and repeat until it's good. Each time you make changes, you should see your LTFTs (Lo, Mid, Hi) trend more toward zero. I'm usually happy if they end up +/- 2%. Looking at CombinedFT will provide you with real time feedback.

One thing you need to start getting good at is smoothing your VE table. When you have large jumps from cell to cell, the data you're collecting during a log will be skewed and inaccurate. If you keep making adjustments based on skewed data, your VE table will eventually become completely f***ed. Use the interpolate section (linear) *right click on the SD table* to smooth your table. If the values aren't exactly what the SD VE Adjust (CombinedFT) tool suggested, that's fine. You're looking to make a series of small changes to the VE table that add up to be one smooth table full of fairly accurate VE values. You may also have to tweak the cells by hand to get them blended nicely.

Nobody with a decent tune ever said this sh** was easy. Getting my cruise tune spot on literally took me weeks of driving, collecting data, tweaking the map, the repeating the process until I was satisfied. Don't be discouraged if you don't get it dialed in over night. If you only drive your car on rare occasions like me, you're looking at some time before it's on point.






Now, this is what the TPS Adjust feature is for. It's fine if you use it to make small adjustments after the voltage shifts slightly after properly adjustig the sensor.
 
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