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You won’t likely find the driver side mount, hate to say. I spoke to a tech at Anchor, and he said the ones sold for the 1.8L will fit, and can be stiffened by filling the windows in the rubber with windshield adhesive. I can’t say for sure that it works from any personal knowledge.
the other three should be available, but many folks seem to complain about trouble getting the right one on first try. If you could find an OEM source, probably worth the money. If you owned a 90 with cruise control, like mine, then the manual trans mount is NLA.
Mine is a 92' Auto with cruise control. All transmission mounts i found are for automatic w/o cruise control. What difference make the cruise control?
 
Going with poly is a slam dunk, though you get more vibration, from what most say.
Like this ones?? This is hard to fit right?

Screenshot_20210827-072527.png
 
Here is how I did my 90 with poly mounts. I did my 92 auto car also, same thing and Mech Addict is right they will add some vibration to the car.
 
I’d start with the helpful link that 1990TSIAWDTALON posted above...
Use the search feature on this site, or post a new thread with that question. Like I said, mine are all still stock, but I know I’ve read plenty of posts on it by and by.
 
I went with these recs. Others may have different views. Note that his trans recs are for manual trans and not autos like yours.


Unrelatedly, I'm hoping to put my own manual trans back together and on the car today, after several months of down time, and will be using Jack's recs.

Correction: I went with Jack's rec for trans oil, which doesn't apply to you, but not for the t-case or rear diff, in which case I went with RTM Racing's recs. I'll add a link to the latter so you can decide which is best for you. I'm sure that either would work well.

And no matter what you get, remember, it's GL-4 for the t-case and GL-5 for the rear diff (although Jack's recs appear to contradict this, so do some more research).


Note that this is for 1G DSMs, but that's what you have. Good luck!

Ok there's also this, which IIRC is what I actually used to determine which oils to for the t-case & rear diff. Sorry for all the updates but my morning coffee's still not fully kicked in and it's gradually coming back to me.


And someone correct me if I'm wrong, but Jack's recs appear to be for modded DSMs that put out higher than stock HP, right?

So basically, I got Mitsu MTF 75W-85 Gear Oil for the trans (which doesn't apply to you), Redline MT-85 75W85 GL-4 Gear Oil for the t-case, and Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil for the rear diff. My '92 Talon TSi AWD manual is all stock, 195HP.

Have I confused you enough? Not my intention! :idontknow:
 
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Going with poly is a slam dunk, though you get more vibration, from what most say.
The drives side mount does basically nothing as far as upgrades go. It's the front and back engine mounts that matter. Keep the drivers side and trans mounts stock unless you enjoy PRYING them out and back in every time you mess with them. I hate the poly drivers mount on mine. Wish it was factory rubber still.
 
So from what I’ve read, GL-5 has better protection for surfaces under stress, but the additives (I want to say phosphorus, but maybe sulfur...?) can corrode bronze synchros, which is why the MT needs GL4. The xfer and rear diff are all steel, so no harm (and likely some benefit) for GL5. There is also redline shockproof, which is no-no for a 5-speed (per most experts) but supposedly great for xfer and diff.
I ended up ordering the OEM fluids from JNZ so Id have one less decision to make. Price was not bad, and most of the products would have to be shipped anyway.
 
I run Redline Lightweight Shock in the transfer case and Redline Heavyduty Shock in the rear dif BUT my car makes a few ponies above stock, which is why I use them. On a stock or mild car, the OEM stuff is perfect and on the auto trans, I use Dextron 3, per DTR recommendations when I picked up my transmission from Darren. :thumb:
 
I run Redline Lightweight Shock in the transfer case and Redline Heavyduty Shock in the rear dif BUT my car makes a few ponies above stock, which is why I use them. On a stock or mild car, the OEM stuff is perfect and on the auto trans, I use Dextron 3, per DTR recommendations when I picked up my transmission from Darren. :thumb:
Good to know! Yeah, my car is stock,maybe 140whp 😂. OEM stuff will be fine.
 
That question could be the start of a very long series of responses. Here’s my take:
Pretty much everyone agrees that the Timing belt can be doom of these interference fit engines if it breaks. Interference means valves crash into pistons, with results as you’d expect.

60 k miles is the normal change interval, which isn’t that long. Many folks would say if you don’t know when yours was last done, don’t drive until you change it.

then there are strong views on only use OEM belt and tensioner vs. other brands. Often it is recommended to also change out the various idler pulleys and such when you do the t-belt, because if they fail, same catastrophe. There is a balance shaft “timing belt”, it it really should also be replaced , because if it breaks, same catastrophe. The last item that you might consider is the water pump.
These are not especially prone to short life, like the belt, but getting to it requires removing the t-belt, so most folks suggest change it out “while you’ve got it apart” ( words that have expensive implications). Water pump also seems to have ardent OEM-only proponents, though the real OEM water pump is many times the price of aftermarket, even from otherwise reputable brands.
After all this, did my timing belt mostly because I might have overtightened my new power steering belt, causing the water pump seal to fail. I did use all OEM components, including new fasteners and new front cover. I did buy an Aisin water pump, but I’m pretty confident they are now the OEM mfr.
The procedure isn’t that hard, though space is tight, and loosening the crank bolt is not trivial. You don’t have to take the cam sprockets off , as the factory service manual implies, so you also don’t have to remove the valve cover. If you have oil leaks, then might as well. Also check out the VFAQ description, it is handy. Many many posts on this site about t-belt, so I was really only giving the cliffs notes.
 
As I've found out asking the same question, there's a huge range of responses and views on this site about this, as a search will quickly reveal. Some says only OEM or "better than OEM" (e.g. Gates racing belts). And some say non-OEM is ok but only if it's a reputable brand, e.g. Gates. Few if any say any old brand is fine, on something this critical.

My take from all the discussions and debates is to get the best parts you can afford, that fit your situation. E.g. if you're running stock then there's probably no need for a Gates racing belt, but definitely get OEM if you can afford it or at least Gates non-racing if you can't. And no matter what you get for the other parts, only get an OEM hydraulic tensioner. Pretty much all the experts seem to agree on that.

Beyond that, you're going to have to do some research and decide what's best for your car and budget. Myself, I'm getting a Gates Racing balance shaft belt (which is only slightly more expensive than OEM), an upgraded OEM kevlar timing belt, OEM seals, pulleys and tensioners, and an Aisin water pump--all on the advice of experts I've come to trust here and elsewhere.

Good luck.
 
That question could be the start of a very long series of responses. Here’s my take:
Pretty much everyone agrees that the Timing belt can be doom of these interference fit engines if it breaks. Interference means valves crash into pistons, with results as you’d expect.

60 k miles is the normal change interval, which isn’t that long. Many folks would say if you don’t know when yours was last done, don’t drive until you change it.

then there are strong views on only use OEM belt and tensioner vs. other brands. Often it is recommended to also change out the various idler pulleys and such when you do the t-belt, because if they fail, same catastrophe. There is a balance shaft “timing belt”, it it really should also be replaced , because if it breaks, same catastrophe. The last item that you might consider is the water pump.
These are not especially prone to short life, like the belt, but getting to it requires removing the t-belt, so most folks suggest change it out “while you’ve got it apart” ( words that have expensive implications). Water pump also seems to have ardent OEM-only proponents, though the real OEM water pump is many times the price of aftermarket, even from otherwise reputable brands.
After all this, did my timing belt mostly because I might have overtightened my new power steering belt, causing the water pump seal to fail. I did use all OEM components, including new fasteners and new front cover. I did buy an Aisin water pump, but I’m pretty confident they are now the OEM mfr.
The procedure isn’t that hard, though space is tight, and loosening the crank bolt is not trivial. You don’t have to take the cam sprockets off , as the factory service manual implies, so you also don’t have to remove the valve cover. If you have oil leaks, then might as well. Also check out the VFAQ description, it is handy. Many many posts on this site about t-belt, so I was really only giving the cliffs notes.
When I replaced the TB on a different car, a 2010 Kia Rio, the FSM also said that I had to remove the valve cover and cam sprockets. I didn't see why, so I didn't, and two years later all is well, at least as far as the TB is concerned and as far as I can tell (although there is this rough idling from time to time).
 
Well, car is completly stock and is an auto, will use on Sundays mostly. Budget is not that tight but if i can safe something will be great. WP Aisin, belts Gates with OEM tensioner and seals. I think that will work fine. How that sound? Oh, and thank you all for your replies.
 
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