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Safe RPM's on a 2g turbo

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Thedsmnewbie

Probationary Member
20
1
Feb 18, 2013
Easley, South_Carolina
What is the safe RPM range on a 1997 eclipse turbo 4g63 with all stock parts? just wondering what the safe range is on a stock 4g63 7bolt. the only issue is it has a little over 150k miles on it.OMG
 
Well i figured that, but im just thinking that hard on the gas at 5-7k rpm is not good for a stock 4g63 7bolt with 150k+ miles LOL
 
As long as your engine is in good shape and you keep up on maintenance breaking into the 5-7k range every once in awhile is not going to hurt anything. I'm guessing most people (some that shouldn't of course) on this site do it on a daily basis.
 
Well i figured that, but im just thinking that hard on the gas at 5-7k rpm is not good for a stock 4g63 7bolt with 150k+ miles LOL

The bottom end, and valve train will take redline just fine. You shouldn't break anything despite the mileage. I know plenty of people making 400hp on stock 150k+ engines. What is more important to know is; how good your oil pressure is. If you don't have adequate oil pressure, that's when something will eventually go wrong.
 
Ive got a stock head i rev to 7k daily with bc272s stock rev limit is 7500 redline is 7000.

I hope you have valvetrain upgrades, that is what will break you at higher RPMS.
 
It doesn't take any mods to safely hit the stock redline.

BC's have quite a bit of hold and added lift...7500 on a relatively aggressive cam with old stock components is pushing it and not worth valve float and damaging valves :notgood:
 
No reason to run it to even the stock redline with stock cams and a t25.

With regards to the op's question, yes this is probably the best advice. It will not hurt you honestly, but the turbo will die off before then. A bigger turbo will be more benficial at higher rpms to get more airflow, but the t25 peaks much too early. However, it still will not hurt you to much on a stock set of cams to hit redline.
 
As long as you have no boost leaks and can actually get to redline without backfiring or hitting fuel cut, you should be fine.
 
thanks everybody for the input and advise. i just got too wondering because i got to playing with the car on a back road an realized fun doesent start till about 3500 rpms on my car LOL :hellyeah: just making sure before i do something stupid since its my first car!
 
Make sure you have good clamps on your vac lines. I need to buy new ones because every time I hit 5500-6k I blow a line off. I have an awd and my dad popped the Lin off from the j-pipe to my mbc off and it hit 20psi and broke the rear wheels loose in 2nd gear. Bad tires of course.
 
my 110kmile 6 bolt takes 7k revs daily with no problems. dont know if theres any diffrences with how high u can rev with a 7 bolt 4g63

theres not but i just stated that its a 7bolt because of the possibility of crankwalk when driven at high rpms with the amount of miles on it.
 
theres not but i just stated that its a 7bolt because of the possibility of crankwalk when driven at high rpms with the amount of miles on it.

High revs have nothing to do with crankwalk. When it does happen (which is rare) it's usually caused by (or accelerated by) high thrust loads from heavy pressure plates.

Also you have 150k on your engine, if it were to walk because of some design flaw, it would have along time ago.
 
High revs have nothing to do with crankwalk. When it does happen (which is rare) it's usually caused by (or accelerated by) high thrust loads from heavy pressure plates.

Also you have 150k on your engine, if it were to walk because of some design flaw, it would have along time ago.

oh ok I see what you mean, so pretty much if I was gonna get crankwalk, it would have done it along time ago? :ohdamn:
 
theres not but i just stated that its a 7bolt because of the possibility of crankwalk when driven at high rpms with the amount of miles on it.

7 bolts come with a main girdle, 6 bolts to not, so if a 6 bolt can take revs up to 7k a 7 bolt most definately can. Revs
Don't create crank walk,
Look on magnus's site.
 
so what is crankwalk exactly? and what causes it?

Crankwalk is when your crankshaft starts shifting side to side. When this happens it usually takes out the main bearings with it (possibly other things too). I have heard different things that cause it, from a heavy clutch, to the material used to build the motor and crank, to poor oiling (piston oil squirters).
 
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