The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

General Safc2 adjustments

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSM NE

Proven Member
88
3
Oct 21, 2020
Omaha, Nebraska
So I’ve been told I have to adjust the safc 2 depending on weather.

when it gets cold give it more fuel and when its hot take out some fuel.

now I’m being told that’s wrong and the mas is supposed to auto adjust it for me can anyone give me more info on the afc and which one is right
 
If it hasn’t been tuned, yes. I’ve ran it on my 2g. Dyno tuned and never had to adjusted anything. It was my daily except the last year or two before I sold it.

Btw what size injectors are you running? I had 660s and from what I’ve read, they can’t be used with bigger injectors.
 
Last edited:
If it hasn’t been tuned, yes. I’ve ran it on my 2g. Dyno tuned and never had to adjusted anything. It was my daily except the last year or two before I sold it.

Btw what size injectors are you running? I had 660s and from what I’ve read, they can’t be used with bigger injectors.
550cc from rc the previous owner did tune it but this is exactly how my headgasket blew was because my wideband started to read 29 out of nowhere but I ended up finding out that my wideband sensor went bad later on was the tune messed up because of the sensor f***ing up?
 
The wb sensor going bad shouldn’t have anything to do with the tune. They’re not connected in any way besides reading the exhaust. Did you get a new sensor? What’s afrs now?
I got the wideband sensor replaced now and I’m trying to get used to taking out fuel or adding depending on heat index or just the weather in general while cruising it bounces between 15:1 or 14 when under boost it goes between 11-10-9 and that’s why I’m trying to learn how to adjust it or asking if I’m even supposed to
 
The wb sensor going bad shouldn’t have anything to do with the tune. They’re not connected in any way besides reading the exhaust. Did you get a new sensor? What’s afrs now?
My headgasket blew and when the head was taken off you could see carb was built up a lot because of how rich the car was running trying to get 14.7 while idle which the guy working on my car said it doesn’t matter when hooked up to afc
 
Those afrs are fine. You can clean up any area that’s not smooth.
Have you ever used safc 2? On a 2g if so any tips and I mean I thought 9 was pretty rich while under boost thought the lowest it could go was like 11

also the guy that works on the car said it’s normal for the car to stall while going into neutral when hooked up to safc 2
 
Oh my bad. I saw that as 10.9. Mine was the square one so pretty sure it’s the original safc. Yeah 9 is rich. Take a video of you rpm and wb so you can see at what rpm you need to make adjustment(s). Then go to the slider and pull fuel from that area. I’m sure the afc2 isn’t much different from 1.

That guys a tool.
 
I mean the guy is really reputable
That guy doesn’t know what he is talking about. Is your blow off valve vented to the atmosphere?
i mean he is really reputable around the mid west area a tuning shop recommended me him the shop that tuned the car the first time he’s got some nice cars to work on in there

and yes the bov isn’t recirculated
 
If he Was reputable, then he would know that the reason for the car stalling out is because your bov isn’t recirculated. Has nothing to do with the afc.

That’s DSM Tuning 101 stuff
 
If he Was reputable, then he would know that the reason for the car stalling out is because your bov isn’t recirculated. Has nothing to do with the afc
I mean the car never stalled before i don’t know if it was because the car was actually tuned properly before and after I accidentally hit the batter positive against my strut bar like 3-4 times actually causing a spark it messed it up
 
Yeah, you're losing metered air which is going to cause it to stall. I've had my car running on a SAFC-2 for like 15 years - I had a professionally tuned once and I've never touched it since. I]m currently switching over to ECMlink, but you need to recirculate and get the car dialed in and you should be good to go.
 
Yeah, you're losing metered air which is going to cause it to stall. I've had my car running on a SAFC-2 for like 15 years - I had a professionally tuned once and I've never touched it since. I]m currently switching over to ECMlink, but you need to recirculate and get the car dialed in and you should be good to go.
Do you live and drive in a state that has snow? Also how much did the tune cost
 
What does snow have to do with anything? The adjustments needed between warm and cold weather to achieve the most possible hp is maybe a few percent up or down. Not enough that requires the entire tune to be changed
 
What does snow have to do with anything? The adjustments needed between warm and cold weather to achieve the most possible hp is maybe a few percent up or down. Not enough that requires the entire tune to be changed
Was asking if maybe in weather changes the car acted differently like different idle or how the car would act if his afrs ever changes from what they once were
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top