The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

rustoluem paintjob..good or bad..

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pandaswag

10+ Year Contributor
36
0
Nov 8, 2011
Naperville, Illinois
Alright, before everyone jumps on their high horse and flames me for being a disgrace of a DSM owner, HEAR ME OUT. and excuse me for the long story.

I'm 18. Im a service porter at ford. New to the DSM game. Recently bought a DSM about a month ago, turned out the head gasket went and for about 2 weeks now its been sitting in the service lot at work waiting to get worked on.. $1000 dollars down the drain but hey, gotta do what you gotta do..

My dsm is a P.O.S. to be honest.. its my second car and well.. its sun damaged, spray painted hood, grey replacement 97 bumper on it (cause its a 95 and who likes the 95 bumpers)interior is a mess due to the previous owner who abused it.. stuff like that. fact is though i just need my car to get me to work and back and to my girlfriends house. maybe 60 miles a week.

I bought this car for 1600 and since im a little bit of a car enthusiast i figured id fix it up to the best of my abilities and sell it for much more. unfortunately as i said the headgasket blew so im out 1k...

NOW TO THE MAIN POINT:
Im looking to paint my car in my garage my self. I've heard great sucess stories stories on painting your car with rustoleum or some other cheap-o paint.. Ive heard it can come out good if you do it the right way and take your time.. Ive also heard it can be anywhere from 22-70$!! i guess you can use rollers or a spray gun? we have a spray gun here.

Has anyone ever done this or had a friend thats done it? In my situation where id just like to add a better hint to my half black half grey car would you do it? I know you all love your dsm's to death but im literally stuck in this pickle.. I cant spend 1k-2k on a regular paint job.. And this car really couldnt get any worse. So doing it my self really couldnt hurt right? I mean ill only have the car for a year or so.. LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS AND OPINIONS. please think about MY situation before you complain im destroying a dsm... im just trying to make it better. thx.
 
Dont paint it with rustoluem. its not expensive to paint a car with automotive paint. i painted my car with a two stage system and it was under 300. the only time i used rustoluem is for the engine bay, because its enamel.
 
Dont paint it with rustoluem. its not expensive to paint a car with automotive paint. i painted my car with a two stage system and it was under 300. the only time i used rustoluem is for the engine bay, because its enamel.

Ah. Ok i just used rustoluem as a general term for any type of painting ## car by ## self.. i could buy some automotive paint. im just talking about doing it for about 300 tops here..
 
Either way, the results are only as good as the painter and prep work. If you aren't going to do the prep work or if you can't paint, it's not worth spending the money on expensive paint. I'd rather see a DSM with a good Rustoleum paint job than a DSM in a junkyard due to cancer.
 
yep yep. I planned on doing all the sanding/wetsanding/prime what ever prep work i needed to do and my dad works with a guy who has a model-T he painted him self in his garage i was hoping to call in a favor of such.. Idk... once my car back on the road ill probably create a thread asking for more info on prep work and such to make sure i dont miss anything.

I think if it turned out nice and well and i learned a thing or two about painting cars it could benefit me in the future so hey, cant really lose here.
 
If you have a spray gun I suggest you use an arylic enamel. It's cheap easy to spray, and easy to fix if you mess up. You'll want to put hardener in it tho, as it really improves the durability. Your local Oreillys can get you some it's a cheaper line of dupont, I'd guess it will put you close if not over your $300 budget.

The other option is some tractor enamel. You can get it at farm supply stores, its about $11/qt, and when used with hardner, it's pretty good stuff. (buy hardener at a car paint store, way cheaper there)

Like the other guys said tho, prep work is what makes it look good. don't be suprised if you spend $200 on bondo, primer and sandpaper. In the end it will still look better with $100 paint, than $300 paint and no prepwork..
 
If you have a spray gun I suggest you use an arylic enamel. It's cheap easy to spray, and easy to fix if you mess up. You'll want to put hardener in it tho, as it really improves the durability. Your local Oreillys can get you some it's a cheaper line of dupont, I'd guess it will put you close if not over your $300 budget.

The other option is some tractor enamel. You can get it at farm supply stores, its about $11/qt, and when used with hardner, it's pretty good stuff. (buy hardener at a car paint store, way cheaper there)

Like the other guys said tho, prep work is what makes it look good. don't be suprised if you spend $200 on bondo, primer and sandpaper. In the end it will still look better with $100 paint, than $300 paint and no prepwork..

Agreed, i easily spent maybe 50+ hours on prep work and at least 150 on bondo and sand paper. then then the 280 on my paint. In the end, it was worth the experience.
Good Luck OP.
 
Either way, the results are only as good as the painter and prep work. If you aren't going to do the prep work or if you can't paint, it's not worth spending the money on expensive paint. I'd rather see a DSM with a good Rustoleum paint job than a DSM in a junkyard due to cancer.

+1

The prep work is very, very important! You get this done correctly, then you could see some very nice results from a DIY paint job.
 
I did a Rustoleum paint job on my car, but i had some reasons.
A. my car had been in a couple small accidents and thus a couple parts where from different cars, like the door and the opposite side front fender.
B. i got it with a primer on it already. sadly, it was a pretty poor primer job.
C. i was just starting the year in college so my spare money was going to tuition, books and such.


I mention this because you seem to be in a similar scenario where the car is already on its last legs and i would say go for it. I know i am in sort of a cheap and cheerful little car, and i think its worth spending a bit to have it in the color you want, and not seeing all the weird colored bits and remembering all the crappy reasons for it.


In the near future i do plan on giving it a better treatment in terms of appearance. like bondo-ing the dents, getting new body kit cause the stock ones are cracked old and used, giving it a full paint job, and so on. but for now i am more in it for the ride of the viehicle.

To those who may say giving a DSM a rustoleum paint job is bad for what ever reason, i believe gutting it just to save a few pounds is worse.
 
I did a Rustoleum paint job on my car, but i had some reasons.

I agree very much with what you said. If the car's paint is shitty, and its just generally not very nice, by all means go ahead with the rustoleum job.

I just makes me cringe when people destroy a nice car by spray bombing it, or rustoleuming a nice car, just be cause they want a different color.

My GGSX is getting a industrial equipment enamel paint job on it this summer, maybe I'll do a how to on it.
 
I do body shop work and decided I wanted to try this method. I spent 600+ on paint for my 350z (Lexus starfire white pearl) so I decided to go cheap on this. $100 for primer, paint, and clear total ... You'd never be able to tell it was rattle canned. Just take your time with it. I did mine over 2 or so days. Went from green to black.
 
I agree very much with what you said. If the car's paint is shitty, and its just generally not very nice, by all means go ahead with the rustoleum job.

I just makes me cringe when people destroy a nice car by spray bombing it, or rustoleuming a nice car, just be cause they want a different color.

My GGSX is getting a industrial equipment enamel paint job on it this summer, maybe I'll do a how to on it.

Rattle can isn't so bad if you use the acrylic enamel. The rustoleum is also an acrylic enamel. If you wet sand it and buff it out than you would never know the difference between the 2 paint types from looks.

Here is an accord that i repaired a while back. The hood and front bumper are both painted with DuPont acrylic enamel from spray can, and cheap harbor freight acrylic enamel clear coat.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Duplicolor is a very descent paint in a spray can. If you are gonna go that route.

If it's just standard enamel than it isn't really a good option for an car. It is far to soft.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Rustoleum isn't an acrylic. Its an oil based enamel. There are serveral types of enamels.

Acrylic, thats typically what is in a spraycan

Acrylic urethane enamel - Thats what you would buy at a auto paint supplier.

Alkyd Enamel - Typically equipment paint. You can buy this at industrial paint suppliers, also some tractor paint is of this variety. Specifically John Deere paint.

Oil based - Thats your rustoleum, and other rust stop types. Typically found at hardware stores. Valspar tractor paint is also of this type.

All three of them can be catylized by commonly availible hardeners. Doing this makes the paint much more glossy, and durable.

I have been told taht you can make hardener for these paints by dissolving a styrofoam cup in gasoline.
 
I have painted my Talon 3 times so far, 1st was with about 10 cans of Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Satin Olive paint, and it came out looking great. Then I plastidipped it, that wasnt so great because you have to be very consistent when you are spraying it on. Then I painted it with Krylon Ultra-Flat Camo Olive and it still looks good. I am planning to spray the bottom half of the car with Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Gray that comes as a glossy paint, then spray a satin clear coat over it. In all the cost always lands under $100, but like everyone else is saying, its mainly in the prep work that determines how well your paint job will come out. Also, with the paint you are using, if it is in a spray can, make sure it has a nozzle that provides a fan spray, that way it will cover more area more evenly and you will not have those ugly zebra spray stripes. Overall in my opinion, as a broke college student, I'll stick with the rattlecan method for now and rep it proudly. Every time I have painted mt car, everyone always complements me on it and ask me where I took it to get painted, and they are always shocked when I tell them I did it myself and under $100. :p
 
I just makes me cringe when people destroy a nice car by spray bombing it, or rustoleuming a nice car, just be cause they want a different color.

Well you dont belong in this thread. I specifically said I wasnt trying to just change the color so dont give me some bullshit story about how people cringe. Im not expecting the best, im not even changing my cars color. Staying black. Im just trying to do BETTER then what i have. You cant destroy my car, its already destroyed.
 
Well you dont belong in this thread. I specifically said I wasnt trying to just change the color so dont give me some bullshit story about how people cringe. Im not expecting the best, im not even changing my cars color. Staying black. Im just trying to do BETTER then what i have. You cant destroy my car, its already destroyed.

Go back and reread my post very carefully. Then apologize for wrongfully jumping on my case. Finally thank me for posting good info on inexpensive paint.
 
Ha I think its a good idea if you dont have a ton of cash for a pro job. Shit my 92 TSi is all rattle-snaked flat black and personally I think its pretty damn sweet. Go for it. At least if you screw up its a cheap fix.
 
The roller method with spray paint is achieved by emptying the spray paint into a roller tray and mixing with paint thinner to roll it on, that way there's no need to wet sand. To empty the paint can hold the can upside down and spray to release all the gas without spraying out all the paint. Once that is done, poke a hole or cut the can open and dump it's contents into a tray for a roller. I haven't personally done this method, although I've seen the results and it's turned out pretty well for a cheap paint job.
 
The "rockabilly" guys with their Ratrods actually use the rustoleum "satin" black commonly found at Home Depot for 30 bucks a gallon, looks great and holds up to the elements as well.
 
Last edited:
The "rockabilly" guys with their Ratrods actually use the rustoleum "satin" black commonly found at Home Depot for 30 bucks a gallon, looks great and holds up to the elements as well.

that's how my supra was painted, after about a year it starts to look like crap. mine began to have a goldish haze from oxidation/exposure to elements.
 
Ah. Ok i just used rustoluem as a general term for any type of painting ## car by ## self.. i could buy some automotive paint. im just talking about doing it for about 300 tops here..



WHY DO PEOPLE PUT A # SIGN IN THERE TEXT? Like the statement above, what does it mean?


Anyways, I painted my engine bay for about $120, the stock OEM silver automotive paint. I already had a spray gun though. I spend about 85 hours on prep work before paint, on just the engine bay. It's only takes like 10-15 minutes to paint, the key is all prep work.
 
The roller method with spray paint is achieved by emptying the spray paint into a roller tray and mixing with paint thinner to roll it on, that way there's no need to wet sand. To empty the paint can hold the can upside down and spray to release all the gas without spraying out all the paint. Once that is done, poke a hole or cut the can open and dump it's contents into a tray for a roller. I haven't personally done this method, although I've seen the results and it's turned out pretty well for a cheap paint job.

That is kind of silly when you can buy the enamel paint in a can directly from the parts store for like 10 bucks a pint and it will be paint matched. You will always want to wetsand and buff a rolled on job if you want it to look good.
 
Well, like you see its all preference, I painted my 04 chevy front end with rust oleum right out of the can, didnt mix it with anything and used a roller after a wreck, I did 3 coats and a bunch of sanding and you couldnt tell the difference, good luck either way you decide to go.
 
WHY DO PEOPLE PUT A # SIGN IN THERE TEXT? Like the statement above, what does it mean?


Anyways, I painted my engine bay for about $120, the stock OEM silver automotive paint. I already had a spray gun though. I spend about 85 hours on prep work before paint, on just the engine bay. It's only takes like 10-15 minutes to paint, the key is all prep work.

Because the site automatically corrects some mistakes, like if you say ## instead of your it wall correct that, and also when people say cus instead of because. Just some examples :thumb:.
edit: the "##" in my above statement is "U R".
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top