RTM Racing out of business?

[XC92]

Although I hadn't yet bought anything from them I have found their site to be very useful in researching this or that possible upgrade or replacement part, as they've got a good inventory selection and most parts have very detailed descriptions that are helpful to a newbie like me, and it's a well-designed site.

But when I went to check their site just now to research replacement bushings for my shift cable end and shifter, I saw that their site had been "suspended". Are they officially out of business, or are they just having web site issues or perhaps changed their URL?

www.rtmracing.com

Btw, are there useful tutorials or FAQs on replacing shift cable and shifter bushings? I find it a bit confusing and the FSM isn't that helpful. I read about poly vs brass vs. aluminum vs. "skateboard" bushings and bearings, and find it all a bit over my head.

I'm going to drop the trans soon to rebuild it and hope to also replace these parts, maybe clean out the shifter and base along with the shift and select levers on the trans, also fix the slop in the clutch pedal. I've got most of these figured out, just not the shift cable & shifter.

 

[Paul@RTM]

We're still in business.
We had some kind of malware infect our site at our provider's system. They're currently working to restore us. We assumed it would have been up sometime today, but I guess they'll take as long as they need. Of course, we apologize to all our customers for the inconvenience, but at this point, there's not a whole lot we can do but wait it out.

I suppose I should make a post on our supporting vendor forum.

 

[twicks69]

No, they are in business. Their site got hacked a couple days ago.

From their facebook page -
STILL DOWN
Just a short note to let you know we haven't "flown by night". Neither have we committed any crimes or failed to pay our bills!
Our servers were hacked, and it became necessary to "suspend" our account to protect all the other accounts on the server. Almost like our account got Covid and had to go into quarantine.
In any case, the IT people are working diligently at cleaning our files so that we can safely re-open and once again serve our great customers.
Currently, we can only be reached by phone: 905-730-0951

 

[dustyboner]

the site is back up now

 

[XC92]

Yay! Glad to hear it was a tech issue and you're still in business, and the site is back.

I LOVE your site (and hope to place some orders once I finalize the list of things I need)!

(Back down again btw, hopefully not for long.)

 

[Paul@RTM]

Yup, we're aware.
I made a post about it in the Supporting Vendors section.

 

[Mech Addict]

Doing the bushings in the shifter is pretty straighforward. I think when you remove the console and expose the shifter, it will be pretty clear. It is possible to remove just some of the console cover, detach the cables ends, and unbolt and remove the shifter. actaully, while I didn't do it this way, you may be able to replace the shifter bushings with the shifter base left in the car. Basically just two shaft/bolts held by nuts and washers, with bushings around the shafts. There is a little flange on the bushings to center the shaft in the bore. Just note how the washers and centering spring are assembled when you take it apart.

the cable bushings are for the transmission end of the cables from what I can tell, not the shifter end. I haven't seen any replacements for the shifter end; perhaps just new cables when they get sloppy? I haven't done those myself. Some folks also replace the rubber bushings that mount the shifter base to the car frame tunnel, alleging some sort of slop in this as well. Personally I can't see it. Mine are just the 30-yo stock ones, and I can't move the shifter base if I try. Not sure how much vibration those rubber ones are really absorbing, though, so I don't really see a big deal either way. The shifter base bolts stab through metal sleeves that sit in the rubber bushings. The bushings have a edges that sandwich the steel shifter base. I assume you could even take the bushings out and just tighten that sucker down onto the frame.? I'm sure others have differing opinions, since those aftermarket base bushings seem to be popular.

Also, glad RTM is alive and well! We need all the sources for parts we can get, and they do a great job (and so polite!).
Cheers!

 

[XC92]

I've yet to remove the console but when I do I'll see how things look and what needs to be done. My guess is that I'll end up taking the whole assembly apart apart and out, just to give it all a good cleaning (because I'm OCD that way), and see what needs to be replaced. I may or may not replace the base bushings, but I'm guessing I will, just to be thorough.

When I'm done with the trans, clutch, pedal, shifter, cables & bushings, I want everything to be as slick and tight as is possible on a 1G DSM, so I can finally DRIVE the thing again. I've come this far so it only makes sense. And there's still so much else left to be done, e.g. rear struts, mounts, ball joints & bushings, front wheel bearings & seals, gaskets, seals, etc.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@XC92 This will walk you right through the shifter, I don't want to clutter this thread but here is a good video and BTW, I just rebuilt one of these myself, very self explanatory but if you need to reference it, just watch this. It is a night and day difference between old and new.
I ordered up a set of bushing off of Amazon that "say" they will work from ihave Replacement. I will compare that product to the 3D Design bushings that I just installed (I have 2 other 90's that need shifter bushings also) and do a short thread on them in the future.
Marty

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[XC92]

Thanks. My console needs cleaning anyway, so it'll also be an opportunity to do that too. I'll do it when I drop my trans this spring.

 

[Mech Addict]

You can still get the OEM plastic ones. They're good for a time; probably around 100k miles. The bronze ones probably last forever, but perhaps a bit different feel in the action. The plastic is a soft, like a butter tub, so it offers a bit more smoothness to the action. Probably not much difference, though. I think the OEM plastic are around $15/ea., so still kind of pricey. I think bronze are in the low $20 ea. My 1990 took six. I think later years may take a different type for one of the shafts. Check the parts catalog. There is also a plastic end-cap for the bottom of the shift lever, where it mates to the shift arm. So seven parts in total to replace in the shifter itself to refresh the tolerances. Make sure you grease them when assembling. Like budda...

Oh, yes; the shifter base in untreated steel. Even my rust-free car had appreciable surface rust on this part. Yours may require a bit of effort to de-rustinize. I painted mine when done, so it will stay nice forever.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

3D creations are 3d printed out of ABS and fit is nice and snug! Suppose to be better than OEM in quality. I noticed they dropped their price after I ordered by $10.

 

[XC92]

You can still get the OEM plastic ones. They're good for a time; probably around 100k miles. The bronze ones probably last forever, but perhaps a bit different feel in the action. The plastic is a soft, like a butter tub, so it offers a bit more smoothness to the action. Probably not much difference, though. I think the OEM plastic are around $15/ea., so still kind of pricey. I think bronze are in the low $20 ea. My 1990 took six. I think later years may take a different type for one of the shafts. Check the parts catalog. There is also a plastic end-cap for the bottom of the shift lever, where it mates to the shift arm. So seven parts in total to replace in the shifter itself to refresh the tolerances. Make sure you grease them when assembling. Like budda...

Oh, yes; the shifter base in untreated steel. Even my rust-free car had appreciable surface rust on this part. Yours may require a bit of effort to de-rustinize. I painted mine when done, so it will stay nice forever.

RTM didn't offer the brass ones for my '92, only the OEM plastic, so I'll probably get those. I'll find a way to live with only 100k miles use out of them. ;-)

And, whatever the rust situation, I'll deal with it. It's not that big a piece compared to some other parts I've derusted, especially the subframe and cross and center members. I'll spray prime and paint it when I'm done. It'll be fine.

Btw RTM is back up again!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

3D Creations is $40/set of 6 - https://dsm3dcreations.wixsite.com/website/product-page/1g-dsm-90-bushings
Or Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-...ocphy=9024209&hvtargid=pla-992983699404&psc=1
The last ones are the ones that I will be testing against the 3d creation models, which I really like.

 

[Mech Addict]

Hmm, didn’t know of these options. I did try to fit 2g OEM units. They are harder plastic (black, not blue), but leave slop in the assembly. Good to know there are others, and half the price. Do they also make the single lever to arm bushing?