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1G RTM 1G AWD Rear Subframe Bushing Install

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all black 4G63

Proven Member
254
43
Aug 5, 2019
Chicago, Illinois
Just checking to see if the fitment of these RTM rear subframe bushings is acceptable?
The inner sleeve is still present in the subframe, but a little worn out.

In the video you can see that they drop right in by hand, but there is to no play. However, if the subframe was tipped over they would most likely fall out.

Please let me know if this is ok to drop in like this by hand?

Here is a link in case it does not work
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Thanks
 
That sleeve must be really worn away. I had to beat mine in with a hammer and piece of wood. Not sure what the fix is but i wouldn't want them to be that loose.
 
I hope this is far enough? The bore of the subframe is tapered and I could get the pipe in any further.
Think this will be ok?

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I didn't want to intrude on this thread with any suggestions until a conclusion was reached. I thought it might be inappropriate to give any input on a public forum. I figured if "all black 4G63" wanted my input, he could ask for it. In any case, I'm glad it all worked out.

For future reference, our bushings should require a certain amount of effort to install, such that they are "firmly" in place before adding and torquing down the installation nut. It should be noted that the act of tightening the installation nut onto the stud will have a tendency to squish the bushing a little fatter and make the fitment tighter still. The point being, that if your bushings don't go in with a certain firmness, you'll probably need to resort to some version of the above solution. How firm is firm? Tough to say, but there really should be no meaningful movement even before torquing down the nut.

By the way, as "gavingsx" pointed out, you don't need the entire bore sleeved, just the majority of it will suffice.
 
I didn't want to intrude on this thread with any suggestions until a conclusion was reached. I thought it might be inappropriate to give any input on a public forum. I figured if "all black 4G63" wanted my input, he could ask for it. In any case, I'm glad it all worked out.

For future reference, our bushings should require a certain amount of effort to install, such that they are "firmly" in place before adding and torquing down the installation nut. It should be noted that the act of tightening the installation nut onto the stud will have a tendency to squish the bushing a little fatter and make the fitment tighter still. The point being, that if your bushings don't go in with a certain firmness, you'll probably need to resort to some version of the above solution. How firm is firm? Tough to say, but there really should be no meaningful movement even before torquing down the nut.

By the way, as "gavingsx" pointed out, you don't need the entire bore sleeved, just the majority of it will suffice.
thanks @paul I appreciate the advice. Everything in the end worked out great. However, you did mention tightening the nut to squish the bushing. Are these bushings designed to be used with the subframe bracket the is between the bushing and nut? It it is the odd shaped looking bracket that bolts to the unibody of the car and then mats up with the bushing?

Thank you
 
Yes, re-use the tear drop-shaped metal plate/bracket between the bushing and the nut.
Also, for the moustache bar bushings, you should re-use the large washer-like plate between the bushing and the nut. (Though in the case of these plates, you should remove the rubber attached to them--by burning/scraping it off).
 
Yes, re-use the tear drop-shaped metal plate/bracket between the bushing and the nut.
Also, for the moustache bar bushings, you should re-use the large washer-like plate between the bushing and the nut. (Though in the case of these plates, you should remove the rubber attached to them--by burning/scraping it off).
Thank you
 
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