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Rod suggestions for build

NOSLO2PT0

Proven Member
2,666
221
Aug 31, 2002
Joliet, Illinois
I am going to have the machine shop check for cylinder shape first and will have them hone it on the machine. I'm sure you could get away with a flex hone. Yeah, I'm reusing the bolts and I do have rod bolt stretch gauges to check while I am assembling. I have a 3/8" extended head Proto 5112 torque adapter for tightening the rod bolts, which fits my Groden rods and my R&R rods.
Tim, what shop are you using to have the work done at?
 

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
3,902
1,039
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
No idea, been 3 years I've dragged my feet. I asked a few, never got a direct answer from any.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,314
225
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
Heck, my 2.3L 7 bolt is apart right now but was a running motor from 2008 to 2020, 3x,000 miles, couple hundred dyno pulls, and a metric ton of track passes. I never changed rod or main bearings, retorqued rod bolts or any of that stuff. I would do an oil change every couple thousand miles of street time or for race/dyno events with quality oil, and I have a large oil cooler on the car too. I let the motor warm up before beating on it and I typically shift to neutral at the top end of a pull instead of engine braking.

Tim, since that engine had a really long life, I'd like to ask what kind of motor oil you used in it. And in years when you didn't race it, did you change it more than once per year regardless of mileage and did you use same viscosity winter and summer? (You've got real winters there)
Thanks!
 

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
3,902
1,039
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
I always ran Valvoline VR1 racing synthetic 20w50. I never changed it over winter time, its just motor oil. I would change the oil more when I raced or dyno'ed the car, other than that it always looked clean and I just kept an eye on it.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,314
225
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I always ran Valvoline VR1 racing synthetic 20w50. I never changed it over winter time, its just motor oil. I would change the oil more when I raced or dyno'ed the car, other than that it always looked clean and I just kept an eye on it.

Thanks, that really helps because I've been wanting to leave the oil in for a year instead of changing every 6 months, since I run it so little in the winter. But I've been uneasy about it because I've been using 20w50 Penn Grade 1 which is ~90% conventional base stock so I thought I should change it twice per year. With full synthetic I'd be much more ok with changing it only once per year. I don’t seem to be getting any fuel dilution in my oil – not that I can tell anyway.

Looks like you can get it for $7.49 per quart Amazon Prime. Plenty cheap. That’s from the only seller I see there that has the actual synthetic rather than the conventional VR1.

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twicks69

Supporting Vendor
3,902
1,039
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
I would run the conventional VR1 in a pinch if I couldn't find the full synthetic, no issues with either over all the years.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,314
225
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I would run the conventional VR1 in a pinch if I couldn't find the full synthetic, no issues with either over all the years.

I like the idea of the VR1 synthetic, and I have thought about it before but the availability was always so slim. I could hardly find it, if even at all. So I never used it. ER recommended to use Brad Penn 20w50 and I know lots of other DSMers use it, so that's what I've been using. (crank bearing clearances are ~0.0022 according to ER)

Do you have any particular thumb up or down about Redline 20w50, 15w50, 10w50? I've thought about those too.
I don't want to turn this into another oil thread. I promise this is my last oil question haha!

I'm kind of assuming that your oil pump for the 3x,000 miles was the stub shaft type that most of us are using including me. Rather than the full length "race shaft" type. Did you make it through the whole 3x,000 miles with just one of those stub shaft pumps?
 
Last edited:

twicks69

Supporting Vendor
3,902
1,039
Mar 12, 2004
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Still on the same oil pump from 2008. Heck it could have been off the motor prior that was built in 2005. OEM stub shaft.

I have no issues with redline oils, I regularly recommend them too.
 
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