Rod knock confirmed

[Cooper-97gst]

Hey guys so i just pulled off the oil pan and confirmed rod knock. I have a couple questions. Being its fwd my goals for the car are, to have a fast, reliable, dd.I was looking at the Frankenstein lower end rebuild kit from dsm graveyard DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

is this over kill for my goals? cant i just reuse my crank and rods sinse its basically the same set up and save some money? or am i able to just replace that spun bearing and call it a day?
what are your thoughts and opinions, any other suggestions are welcomed.

 

[Alex7747]

Will do, the engine is out of the car, but went get to tear it down till sunday. does where can i find the info on the specs to check?

Go to your local auto parts store and ask them for repair manuals. I have the Haynes repair manual. Others prefer the clinton. Either book will give you detailed info o how to properly rebuild your engine.. Like the torque specs and all the clearances ect.

 

[TurboATM]

Actually, using Evo pistons in our blocks, lowers the compression. The piston is a slight bit shorter than a DSM piston, and the Evo head has a smaller combustion chamber than a DSM head.

 

[Cooper-97gst]

Actually, using Evo pistons in our blocks, lowers the compression. The piston is a slight bit shorter than a DSM piston, and the Evo head has a smaller combustion chamber than a DSM head.

so its not that good of an idea? i thought it might help rev faster along with some evo 9 rods as-well...

 

[stuckwithgsx]

I thought so, but wasn't sure . Sorry about that stuckwithgsx.

Yes, he's right. I was just saying a stock rebuild will always be more reliable than a 'race' build. Even if a forged internal build is reliable, it won't last as long (give or take some for the way it's driven on).

I think OP is making this more complicated than it needs to be here. With the searching i've done I haven't seen too many successfully machine 6 bolt rods to a 7 bolt block. Yes it can be done, but why pay for all that machining when you could just do a 6 bolt block swap? If you don't want to switch to 1g cas then get the kiggley crank sensor, or machine the block for a 7 bolt pump to fit and flow to the 6 bolt block. I see this route being cheaper (or same price), as well as more reliable, and a whole lot less headache.

When it comes to vital parts like a crank, I like to leave it to mitsu. Sure there are good machinists that do great work and get things perfect to use oversized bearings, or even widening journals to use wider rods.

Can you foresee the headache when you get your car all back together, and it fails due to a bad machined part? The shop will blame you for incorrect assembly, and you blame the shop for bad machining? Who wins? 50/50 chances here. I like to have no one to blame but me, but I have left a lot of work to a machinist before and it's turned out alright.

I'm just thinking if you truly want to maintain reliability, you are better off with genuine mitsu parts. The very second that you put anything on the car, not from mitsu... that's the start of losing reliability. I know that sounds a little dramatic, but very arguably true.

There are tons of people that have put down really good numbers on stock blocks. In the 300 whp range there are even more. It is pretty safe to go there. I've just always found the more you try and piece together a frankenstein build, especially being your first build, the harder it is to get it running and keep it running.

Just my .02

 

[Tfitch90]

Shoot me a PM with what you are looking for We would love to build you a block.

Also do your research and check the vendor reviews.

I would call this guy first and see ### deals he has on building you a block or getting you parts. I would Leave the evo 9 piston idea alone and just go stock rebuild or forged,but for 300hp you wont need all that. ExtremePSI also has the best prices ive seen on new atermaret and OEM parts. So to go the cheapest route for 300hp I would go stock rebuild and a cheap rebuilt 14b turbo wih supprting mods.