The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Rod knock confirmed

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Cooper-97gst

10+ Year Contributor
230
10
Dec 14, 2010
San Fernando, California
Hey guys so i just pulled off the oil pan and confirmed rod knock. I have a couple questions. Being its fwd my goals for the car are, to have a fast, reliable, dd.I was looking at the Frankenstein lower end rebuild kit from dsm graveyard DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

is this over kill for my goals? cant i just reuse my crank and rods sinse its basically the same set up and save some money? or am i able to just replace that spun bearing and call it a day?
what are your thoughts and opinions, any other suggestions are welcomed.
 
Shoot me a PM with what you are looking for We would love to build you a block.

Also do your research and check the vendor reviews.
 
X2 on pics, can't tell a whole lot from what you described. Also, if you order from them be prepared to wait a very long time to get it.
 
i havent pulled it out but it started knocking 2 blocks away from home so i turned the car off and pushed it the rest of the way. haven't ran the car since. do you need pics it out? i could get on it right now...
 
the crank is what matters. you can get a good used rod anywhere. i have the same problem with one of my dsms right now. mic the crank and compare to oe specs. chances are it will spin again, try to find a good used 7 bolt short block or if your just gonna dd it, fine a rebuilt or used 6 bolt and modify the motor mount. a 6 bolt is going to hold up great as a dd:) but if you did get the franken block it would last a long time and you wouldnt have to worry about spinnin any more bearings for awhile. it depends how much money you have/
 

Attachments

  • DSC02146.JPG
    DSC02146.JPG
    30 KB · Views: 158
  • DSC02148.JPG
    DSC02148.JPG
    28.6 KB · Views: 163
  • DSC02149.JPG
    DSC02149.JPG
    48.6 KB · Views: 149
That crank will have to be cut and the rods align honed if you're going to keep it stock (stock rebuild). What's your budget OP?
 
abt $800 at the moment

thats more then enough for a stock rebuild. I got all my machine work done for about 350. that included a full cylinder head rebuild with 3 angle valve job and the crank turned and the rods align honed. the block was also bored and honed .020" over.
thats just one route you could take :thumb:
 
thats more then enough for a stock rebuild. I got all my machine work done for about 350. that included a full cylinder head rebuild with 3 angle valve job and the crank turned and the rods align honed. the block was also bored and honed .020" over.
thats just one route you could take :thumb:

awesome, so you think a stock rebuild would be enough for my goals? should i just forget abt the frankenstein kit and the evo 9 pistons? im only shooting for abt 300whp. i would like to maintain reliability.
 
awesome, so you think a stock rebuild would be enough for my goals? should i just forget abt the frankenstein kit and the evo 9 pistons? im only shooting for abt 300whp. i would like to maintain reliability.

A stock rebuild could handle that (300 whp) no problem :hellyeah:.
 
I think he is saying that a complete stock rebuild will be reliable.
 
If I'm remembering correct, they run about the same as some forged internals. At that point you want to just go full on built motor.

If i go stock internal with evo 9 pistons what will that do for performance? dont see its being a huge impact on reliability. Will that help with turbo spooling? hp? if its not much difference than ill go stock... im wondering if it will help with power with out going in to boost, I plan on getting and evo 3 16g this summer, but with prices going up so high, i think i might just invest in dsm link instead.
 
Last edited:
If i go stock internal with evo 9 pistons what will that do for performance? dont see its being a huge impact on reliability. Will that help with turbo spooling? hp? if its not much difference than ill go stock... im wondering if it will help with power with out going in to boost, I plan on getting and evo 3 16g this summer, but with prices going up so high, i think i might just invest in dsm link instead.

Im not too sure about evo 9 pistons but the evo 8 pistons have the same compression ratio as the 2g DSMs. So you wouldn't see a change in performance.

Something to consider, the weak point of the 7 bolt engine is not the pistons, but the rods are the weakness. Instead of getting evo pistons, try looking for some stronger rods. I believe the evo 8 rods can hold more power then the 2g DSM rods. If I'm wrong, someone chime in.
 
I believe 800 is plenty for a stock rebuild. I just sold a 92 fwd talon dynoed alittle over 300 with 192000 miles on the clock LOL
 
Im not too sure about evo 9 pistons but the evo 8 pistons have the same compression ratio as the 2g DSMs. So you wouldn't see a change in performance.

Something to consider, the weak point of the 7 bolt engine is not the pistons, but the rods are the weakness. Instead of getting evo pistons, try looking for some stronger rods. I believe the evo 8 rods can hold more power then the 2g DSM rods. If I'm wrong, someone chime in.

I just read, evo 9 pistons are 8.8:1 compared to the 8.5:1 on a 2gs pistons...i guess idealy i would go with evo 9 pistons, and 6 bolt rods o my 7 bolt. now i have to do the math to see if $800 will cut it! LOL
 
I just read, evo 9 pistons are 8.8:1 compared to the 8.5:1 on a 2gs pistons...i guess idealy i would go with evo 9 pistons, and 6 bolt rods o my 7 bolt. now i have to do the math to see if $800 will cut it! LOL

If you have enough money for both (the evo 9 pistons and 6 bolt rods), get them both. But if your budget only allows for one or the other, get the 6 bolt rods.

^this is assuming the 6 bolt rods are machined to fit on the 7 bot crank..

Also, don't buy any parts yet. Pull the motor apart first and see what needs to be replaced and what can stay (and by stay i mean whats still in spec).
 
If you have enough money for both (the evo 9 pistons and 6 bolt rods), get them both. But if your budget only allows for one or the other, get the 6 bolt rods.

^this is assuming the 6 bolt rods are machined to fit on the 7 bot crank..

Also, don't buy any parts yet. Pull the motor apart first and see what needs to be replaced and what can stay (and by stay i mean whats still in spec).

Will do, the engine is out of the car, but went get to tear it down till sunday. does where can i find the info on the specs to check?
 
Your crank will need cut and you'll need oversize bearings, that's all good and proven reliable.

I think the evo pistons are a really pointless mod, you're never going to notice a .3 bump in compression ratio. There are plenty of stock bottom end 7-bolts making 300whp. If you're really dying to upgrade something, do the 6-bolt rods and/or arp rod bolts.

The biggest thing is to make sure you clean everything extremely well.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top